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Knife
Anatomy, Knife Parts, Knife Names, Knife Components
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Copyright details at the bottom of every page |
| If you're coming from the Wikipedia link, welcome!
I knew it had to happen sooner or later; it is my goal to create the best single knife
maker site on the internet, and it's all thanks to you: the public viewer and
knife aficionado.
You don't make several thousand knives in a career without
a lot of thought and details. So I've created a series of pictures and drawings to
illustrate knife components, parts and anatomy. This will help with
conversations, details, and education about common current knife components, and
will lead to easier conversations about custom knives, their construction,
shapes, features, and details.
I've sprinkled in a few large pictures of some
knives I've made with general details and descriptions. Please enjoy
my work!
Modern knife makers speak their own language, and if you hang
around them enough, you'll pick up the terminology, and soon be able to
distinguish an uneven grind radius from a non-parallel spine flat. It seems
every knifemaker has his own terms for his knives, and if you make knives long
enough, you'll have to name those components somehow, just so you know what to
call them! Most of these terms are pretty well established, but may not
correlate with historical norms. For instance, the quillon (or quillion) of a
guard is the horizontal bars that extend perpendicular to the axis of a sword or
dagger,
but nowadays the quillon also refers to the protuberances that stop your fingers from
sliding forward onto the knife blade and cutting edge. I'll detail these points as I go along, and I'll
also continually add to this page with sword and dagger definitions and details,
terms and descriptions common to tactical or combat knives, and maybe even
sheath, stand, and case parts, if you're interested! I go into much
greater description and detail in my upcoming book.
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Testimonial
First let me start off by saying
that this site is great. I love the "Knife
Anatomy, Knife Parts, Knife Names, Knife Components". Who knew
there were so many parts to a knife?
--D.B.
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Knife
Components, with
illustrations and descriptions
Be sure to read more details about these
components and features in the definitions at the
bottom of the page.
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Knife Anatomy 1: This picture starts what seems
to be obvious. The knife has a handle and a blade. The blade has a
point
(or tip) and the point often determines the use, structure, and
connotation describing the knife blade shape. More on that later.
The spine (also
sometimes called the back) is the thickest, heaviest length of
the blade and supports the entire blade. The wider and thicker the
spine, the stronger the blade along its length.
The handle of this full tang knife is framed in by
the front and rear bolster. The bolsters do exactly that, they bolster
the blade's strength in the critical areas: the handle to blade
junction, and the rear or butt of the knife where heavy blows or impact
require reinforcement. The bolsters also help to protect and
mechanically secure the handle.
The pattern used for illustration here is my
Cygnus-Horrocks design. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Knife Anatomy 2: A few more details here. The
thickest part of the knife blade: the spine, is also the blade flat, the
part of the blade that is flat ground. It extends up to the thumb rise
on this example, where the thumb rests in a traditional grip style, and
down to the ricasso, the heavy thick shank of the blade between the
grind and the front bolster. The grind or hollow grind in this case is
the part of the knife where the blade is thinned along its length to
yield a uniform, thin cutting edge. The grind is a very distinctive part
of the knife, and fine workmanship is usually noticed here by how deep,
matched,
and regular the grind is. Some older texts call the grind a bevel
but this is somewhat confusing as there may be many actual geometric
bevels on a knife. Since modern knives are ground, the area is called a
grind.
The front quillon (or quillion) stops the hand from sliding
forward on the blade, and in this knife pattern, the hand is locked between the front and rear
quillons. The rear quillon also aids in removing the knife from the
sheath. The handle belly makes many knives more comfortable to hold. The
handle scales rest between the bolsters and should be pinned, riveted,
screwed, or mounted with mechanical as well as adhesive means.
The pattern used for illustration here is my
Cygnus-Horrocks design. |
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Knife Anatomy 3: A spear point designation used
to refer to a double edge, but nowadays it can refer to the almost
uniform geometry of the point. If you were to bisect the profile of the
point, you would see a nearly symmetrical profile on both sides of the
center line, like a spear of old. In this drawing, you'll notice grind
terminology. The grind termination is at the ricasso, plunges into the meaty
part of the blades, has a radius that delineates the transition between
the grind termination and and the grind line, and leads off
the blade at the spine near the point. The grind termination radius is
determined by the wheel size if hollow ground and other factors. The
choil is considered the start of the cutting
edge. In days of old, the choil was perpendicular to the edge, and is
often still described as the lower part of the ricasso, the part that is
unsharpened and at the full thickness of the blade. In the modern knife,
it can be carved, fluted, fileworked, and a separate feature of a fine
knife. It's purpose is to have a definite location to start the sharpened
edge of the knife.
It's interesting to note that for nearly all
United States locations, laws state that blade length is not the length of
the cutting edge, but the length of the blade from the tip to the front
bolster face.
In this drawing you can see why this rear quillon is often called a
hawk's bill. The pattern used
for illustration here is my
Cygnus-Horrocks design. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Knife Anatomy 4: Here is a remarkably different
knife. You'll notice the point is trailing, that is the point trails
higher than the spine. It has a swage, which is a separate grind that
can be sharpened or left unsharpened (often called a false edge). The
purpose of a swage is to reduce the cross sectional area of the point
without sacrificing too much thickness at the point. Then, being more
pointed, thrusting insertion is improved. This knife also has a blade
with a deep belly (the curved arc of the main blade). Serrations are
usually placed near the handle, for greater application of leverage.
This knife also has a separate chisel edge for hammering through wire,
and a canted (angled) line cutter. This knife is designed for both
tactical combat and survival. |

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Knife Anatomy 5: This full tang knife is double
edged, and the top edge has a great length of serrations. Though this is
uncommon, the design is such that the knife can be drawn through rope or
textiles by cutting upward. Not a feature for the casual user, as
cutting toward oneself can be dangerous. This is clearly a knife for the
professional. Note the shape of the front
bolster face. It is curved inward, concave, so that strength and
coverage of the bolster to tang junction is increased. Note also the
lanyard (or thong) hole is milled through the rear bolster and knife
tang for great strength. A
short lanyard (length of cord) is often used to assist locating the
knife in the dark, or underwater, and to aid in pulling the knife from
the sheath. It can also be used as a security measure wrapping around
the wrist, or be tied to the belt. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Knife Anatomy 6: Here's a full tang knife with a
drop (or dropped) point. The point "drops" lower than the spine. It's a
strong point whose curvature allows very easy insertion in the sheath.
Trailing point knives have to be eased or carefully curved into the
sheath to prevent the point from cutting the sheath welts, but drop
points can be self-guiding and the knife just shoved in, without looking.
You can see that the choil is more pronounced, and
that a greater measure of security for the forefinger than a quillon is
the full finger ring. Preferences vary and opinions differ about the
finger
ring. Disadvantages: it can trap the hand, it takes longer to thread the
finger through, it adds to the width of the stock and weight of the
blade. Advantages: unsurpassed security between the knife and hand.
Note the sculpted bolster face, an advanced
feature on a custom knife. |
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Knife Anatomy 7: Another trailing point with a
swage. Previously, I detailed how a trailing point is harder to sheath in
a knife, from this drawing, you can see that the aggressive point would
rip right into the welts of a sheath if not carefully sheathed. The
advantage to a trailing point is the very fine, sharp point, the finest
point of any blade style. It's, unfortunately, weaker, as the
cross-sectional geometry is very thin.
This knife has a tanto style blade, very popular
in recent years. One of the reasons is that where the "Tanto Blade" arrow points in
this drawing is a secondary point, and the hand can bear down on that
point by applying pressure on the spine back and apply tremendous pressure in cutting.
Note the forefinger groove that is backed with a
canted, deep back. This is to apply pulling pressure when the serrations
are ripped through material. I call them "rip teeth" because that is
ultimately what they do.
This knife also has a rear hook, or
persuader. These protrusions of the rear bolster or butt
of the knife are used in tactical knives to "persuade" an enemy or opponent along after
capture, and as it is not sharpened, will not usually cause and open wound.
It can also be used as a glass breaker, a point to hammer through
tempered safety glass in an emergency. Other names used for this device
are skull crusher (self-explanatory) and cat-scratcher.
The reason for that name is that if the knife is handled frequently, and
during tactical practice, the knife user's arms will often be marked
with scratches from this protrusion resembling scratches from a cat. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Knife Anatomy 8: This is a dagger, a double-edged
knife that has symmetrical or double hollow grinds. The center axis of
the blade has a milled fuller or cannelure. The fuller or cannelure
allows a reduced central weight in the thickest area of the spine,
without sacrificing strength. In essence, it forms an "I" beam running
down the center of the blade, and limits lateral flexion. You will see
this feature more on longer, larger blades, like sword blades. It is not
a "blood groove." The term blood groove is an American colloquialism and
means nothing. We've all heard that the groove is made to allow blood to
flow in a deep cut, but this is simply an uneducated attempt at
describing the fuller. The fuller is named for the special hammer and
anvil tool set (a fuller) used by a blacksmith to produce the groove
that spreads hot iron. The word cannelure is probably the best
descriptive word for this feature, as it simply means "to groove." In my
book I go into greater detail about this mysterious and misunderstood
groove in a blade. |
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Knife Anatomy 9: You've seen my
"Flammarion" pattern before. Nice knife! Here I have highlighted some
more components. The spine is the thickest, heaviest,
strongest part of the knife, and in modern hollow ground knives is
usually left at full thickness. This knife has an upswept
or trailing point, that is, the point trails higher than
the spine of the blade. Notice the belly
on the blade. It is the most convex part of the blade geometry, and in a
hollow ground knife, can be devastatingly sharp. Due to the geometry, in
tactical combat knives, creates a great slashing geometry rather than a
cleaving geometry of straight blades. It's very hard to create a good,
deep belly on a blade no matter how it is ground. Enough thickness
should be left in the blade stock for strength, but enough thinness at
the cutting edge for the geometry to be effective. Notice also the
highlighted heel drop. This is at the rear of the handle,
and allows the heel of the palm more comfort. Humans have heavy, thick
tissues at the base of their palms, and the heel drop on a well-designed
handle can accommodate this human anatomy. Note also the finger
grooves in the handle. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Knife Anatomy 10:
Hidden tang knives
are constructed with a full blade and a handle that
is supported between the threaded tang end and the
shoulder. The tangs may be straight, which makes construction of
the handle easier, or curved (as shown) which can create a more natural
handle shape. The tang may be a solid piece of the same steel as the
blade, or a treaded tang or rod may be hard-soldered or
welded onto the knife tang. The reason for a hidden tang is a fuller,
more rounded handle shape, conservation of expensive blade material, or
design. Obviously, it is not as strong a blade as a full tang knife. The
weak areas are at the shoulder and at the threaded
tang end.
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Knife Anatomy 11: Here's the same knife
tang as shown in Knife Anatomy 10 above, with the guard,
handle material, and pommel shown
transparent. The guard
is usually milled and can be soldered onto the blade at the tang
shoulder, creating a tight, sealed fit between the guard and the blade.
The handle material has a drilled and milled hole down the center, where
the tang sits. The handle may be multiple pieces of materials, including
spacers (see "stacked tang" definition below). The strength of the
handle is complete when the pommel, which is drilled and
tapped, is threaded onto the tang end, tightening the
entire handle. This entire handle, guard, and pommel assembly may be
filled with epoxy or bedding compound to solidify and seal the handle. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Knife Anatomy 12: Here's the hidden tang
knife, completed. You can see how the handle does not show any tang
metal, for a natural appearance, and the shape of the handle does not
depend on the shape, angle, size, or position of the tang, so a full
sculpting of the handle shape can occur. Note how the quillons
and handle belly make this an attractive and comfortable
handle. This is one of my most popular knife patterns, the "Aungst." |
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Knife Blade shape photographs and
descriptions
There are thousands of blade shapes, but most fall into
several simple categories. Most modern names start with the description of the
point. I'll add more details and descriptions, so please check back!
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The Trailing point: The sharpest point for fine
work (such as skinning and caping game), but the hardest to sheath, and
weakest structural point. Note the tall thumb rise, and rear hawk's bill
quillon with large lanyard hole through tang and bolster. |
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The Tanto point: Very popular with combat rescue
personnel, as the angle of the tip is greater, and therefore has more
cross sectional area and more metal to support the point. One of the
strongest points. This one has a top swage, to create a more easy
penetration without sacrificing too much strength. Note the serrations
toward the hilt and the thumb rise. |
Be sure to read more details about these
components and features in the definitions at the
bottom of the page.
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Here's a good example of a Clipped point with a
swage. The point has been "clipped" off (common in Bowie style blades)
and is ground with a swage for a false or real edge. A very aggressive
point. |
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Here's a Spear point. A spear point designation
used to refer to a double edge, but nowadays it refers more to the
almost uniform geometry of the point. If you were to bisect the profile
of the point, you would see a nearly symmetrical profile on both sides
of the center line, like a spear of old. In this knife, the top of the
spear is hollow ground with a small contact wheel, creating a true
double edge for half the length of the blade. A very effective and
devastating grind for a combat or tactical knife blade. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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This knife has a very slight Trailing point. A
trailing point "trails" higher than the blade spine. It's a
more tactical point with greater strength than a point with a swage. Note
the sculpted and fileworked choil. |
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Here's another Swage, this one hollow ground on a
Spear point knife blade. This could be considered a double edged knife. This is a very strong, stout thrusting point
for maximum penetration. Note the very wide and thick spine, and the
strong choil and forefinger quillon. The rear finger ring is for the
forefinger, as this knife is pulled out of the sheath and held in the
tactical grip. |
Be sure to read more details about these
components and features in the definitions at the
bottom of the page.
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Here's a Trailing point knife with a frontal
Gut
Hook. The gut hook is used on skinning knives to hook under the animal's
skin, and pull, cutting it open for gutting. It can also be used as a
line cutter, as it hooks into the line and traps it while it cuts.
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Here is a traditional Drop point (or Dropped
point).
The point is strong, convenient, and sheaths easily. One of the most
popular point styles, this makes a great utility knife. Note the lack of
bolsters on this particular knife, and handle scales of stabilized wood, which makes this a very
light weight knife to carry. The lanyard hole is lined with stainless
steel or nickel silver, which strengthens it and prevents wear on the
wood scales. |
Be sure to read more details about these
components and features in the definitions at the
bottom of the page.
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Here's a Clipped point (or Slant point) on a
mariner's and sailor's knife. The point angle is increased making the
point stronger than a drop point, straight point, or trailing point.
Note the serrations near the ricasso of the knife blade, and the
marlinspike/shackle breaker for sailor's use. |
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The views, sides,
and names of locations on a knife
One would think that detailing the position and view of a
knife would be a simple thing, but a number of terms have developed in the
English language for areas, locations and views of a knife. Here is a photo set
detailing those names and descriptions. The knife I chose for these descriptions
is my "Allegre" pattern, a tough working tanto style blade, mirror polished high
chromium stainless tool steel, sculpted stainless steel bolsters, and Polvadera
Jasper gemstone handle. Open a window and read the testimonial about this great
knife below by clicking here. |
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Obverse Side
Knife Anatomy, sides: This is a view of the
Obverse Side. There have been many names developed for this side of
the knife, and in my book, I detail where those terms came from. It is
an interesting history, with ties to other metalworking trades and
industry. This is the most commonly viewed (or observed) side of the
knife nowadays, because it is the side that bears the maker's mark. So,
it's also called the Mark Side. When the knife is held in the
hand, with the blade pointed away and the edge down (always a good
safety practice) this becomes the Left Side. Since it is mostly
photographed, it's also the Display Side, and often the
Decorative Side. It's also called the Front Side and Die
Side. These terms
may not be all this side is called, but they are the most common in our
industry. This favored positioning is derived, I believe, from the
majority of people being right handed, and I go into much more detail in
my upcoming book. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Reverse
Side
Knife Anatomy, sides: This is a view of the
Reverse Side. Just like the Obverse side, there have been many names
developed for this side of the knife. This is not the most commonly
viewed side of the knife nowadays, because it usually bears no marks or
identifiers. It's also called the Pile Side. I won't tell you here
why that is, that is a neat curiosity that I detail in my book. When the
knife is held in the hand, with the blade pointed away and the edge down
(always a good safety practice) this becomes the Right Side.
Since it is the least photographed, it's also called the
Back Side, and also the Undecorated Side. |
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Spine Profile
Knife Anatomy, sides: This is a view of the
Knife Spine, so named since the strength of the blade is derived
from it. It's also frequently called the back, but this is an antiquated
term that is best avoided, so as not to confuse it with the Back Side of
the knife blade (above). In modern knives, this is a very important view
to illustrate, as it shows the relative thickness, cross-sectional
geometry of the knife blade, the bolster or guard profile, the handle
thickness, and the tang geometry. In this photo, it is a full tang knife
(a solid piece of steel from tip to tip) and the tang is tapered for
weight balance and high quality construction. Note the dovetailed
bolsters, for a rigid fit between bolsters and handle material. This
view is also important to identify the edgework and filework, which has
developed into one of the key indicators of fine quality knives made in
modern times. More details on filework on my
"Embellishment" page here. |
Be sure to read more details about these components and
features in the definitions at the bottom of the
page.
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Sheathed View
Knife Anatomy, sides: It's important in modern
knives that have accessories (sheaths, stands, and cases) to include a
view of those components too, and how they relate to the knife. For a
sheathed knife, this view details the relationship in size between the
knife and sheath, the position and extension of the protruding handle,
and the handle components that will help a knife user extract (or pull)
the knife from the sheath. Here you can clearly see that the rear
quillon (or hawk's bill) aids in extraction. You can get an idea of how
many fingers can be wrapped around the handle for the pull. This knife
also has a lanyard hole through the bolster and tang, so by adding a
short, stout lanyard, even greater ease of extraction and security can
be gained. I go into greater detail of knife sheaths on my
"Sheaths" page here.
Also relevant is the
"Stands" page. |
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Knife and Component Definitions
Definitions of knife parts and components have varied
through time, and you may see some commonly copied lists of knife definitions
that have been borrowed, cut, and pasted on many internet sites. My list is not
one that will be easily adapted for everyone's use (and this site is copyright
protected!), but I'll do my best to
define some standard knife terms from the viewpoint of a current professional
knife maker, and stay away from vague generalities you'll see all over the rest
of the Internet. Some of the terms listed above are not included here, as they are
already defined in the above text.
I've started adding folding knife terms, so please be
patient, and check back.
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| axis |
| This term is reserved for daggers and swords
that have congruent sides, that is, are symmetrical. It is the center
line that extends from the tip at the point to the center of the
pommel. Good daggers are particularly hard to make, as the axis can
reveal any variation or irregularity in blade grind and handle
geometry. |
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back |
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This term is best avoided
altogether. It used to mean the spine of
the knife, but as you can see in the above
text, it can also refer to the reverse side of the knife. In the
past, the term back could refer to the flat edge of the knife that
is not the edge, but because it is such a vague term, it's best not
used, unless you're referring to the knife sheath, which almost
always has a pronounced front side and back side. |
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| bedding, handle |
| In most well-made firearms, the action is
"bedded" to the stock. This eliminates torque, stresses, and binding
of attachment fittings and hardware that may effect the accuracy of
the action. In knives, bedding the handle material to the knife tang
reduces stress and mechanical strains on the handle material,
assuring a longer lasting handle to tang junction, and greater
longevity of the handle, and thus the knife. Many handle materials
benefit from bedding, rather than simple mechanical attachment, but
you won't see this topic discussed much by other makers or by
factories. I have my own processes for bedding handle materials.
Learn more on my
Handles,
Bolsters, and Guards page here. |
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| belly, blade |
|
This is the
deeply convex-curved part of the knife blade,
often seen on skinning knives, where a large sweeping arc is
necessary to separate the skin, fat, and fascia from the body without
presenting a sharp
point that could pierce through into the internal organs,
possibly contaminating the meat or ruining a hide. A large sweeping belly on the
knife blade may be seen on any type of knife, including survival
and even combat knives. In a tactical combat knife, the arc is
advantageous in the same way that the sweep of a cavalry sword
changes the angle of attack, leading to a slashing cut rather
than a chopping or cleaving cut. I talk more about this geometry
in my upcoming book. In other definitions here on the Internet, I've seen it stated
that the blade belly contains serrations, but I've never seen a
knife made this way and it is a poor idea, unless you are
creating a saw. Even then, it's a ridiculous notion, because the
human hand and arm utilize a back and forth linear sawing motion
while using serrations, so
having the serrations in a convex curve is not ergonomically
viable. Typical internet hyperbole and misinformation.
I've also seen it stated that the more curved
the belly of the blade, the less sharp the point can be.... what?
The point and the belly are different parts of the blade, if you
want a more curved belly, and also a sharp point, the knife becomes
a trailing point, with absolutely the sharpest point of any knife!
It really depends on how the knife blade is profiled and shaped.
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| belly, handle |
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The
belly of the handle is the part
that swells outward from the centerline of the handle, and
creates a stronger profile that allows the forefinger and
the smaller fingers to have a deeper placement on the
handle, improving grip strength. This is due to the human
hand physiology. When you make a comfortable fist, the
musculature tends to push the middle fingers of the hand
outward away from the palm, so this shape in the knife or
tool handle is often more comfortable than a straight
handle. But it is more expensive to machine and create on a
knife, so you don't often see handle belly well-executed on
factory or mass-produced knives.
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| bevel |
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This is another
general term that is best avoided. This term is often
used by factories to describe their grind, such as "flat bevel" or
"hollow ground bevel," or "taper bevel." The truth is, anything can be
beveled on a knife, from the grind, to the tang, to the
handle, to the sheath thickness. In modern times, there
are much more descriptive and accurate terms. Quite
simply, a bevel is defined as the slant of a surface or line.
It is also defined as the tool used to mark, measure of
indicate a bevel. So, a bevel can help create a bevel- You can see how confusing, vague, and non-specific this
term is. Try not to use it, unless you're talking about
that specific angle, such as "the bevel of a bolster
dovetail."
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| |
| bolster |
| A bolster in a knife is designed to do just
that: it bolsters (strengthens) a critical area of a knife. In the
modern knife, bolsters usually strengthen the blade-handle junction,
and often the butt of the handle. Both of these areas can endure
great stress, abrasion, or impact, and well-designed bolsters can
help by supporting the blade tang and handle material. Though there are several ways to attach bolsters, I usually
pin mine with zero-clearance pins of the same material as the
bolster, heavily peened and spread through the knife tang. They can
not, and will not loosen, move, or fall off, ever. When you mount
them like I do, they can only be removed by grinding them away! You can
read more about bolsters, their purposes, materials, and mounting
arrangements on a
special page
here. |
| |
| butt |
|
A general
description of the rear of the handle of any knife,
sword, or dagger. You might read here on the
internet that it refers to Bowie knives only, or
that it's also the pommel, and both of these
definitions are incorrect. Every knife handle
has a butt, but the term is just the general
location. On the butt, you might have a rear
bolster, a skull crusher, a pommel, or a lanyard
ring. A pommel is NOT the butt; it is simply located
at the butt of the handle.
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| butt cap |
|
On hollow
hidden tang knives, this refers to the component
that caps (covers, tops, or terminates) the
opening. It is not a pommel.
It may also be applied and
mounted to the butt of a knife handle for strength, for a surface to
apply pressure or impact, for a surface to engrave or embellish, or
to prevent wear and splitting of the handle material such as wood,
horn, or bone. |
| |
| cap |
| Here's another word that is probably best
avoided, because it is vague and non-specific. You can wear a cap,
cap a tooth, and on a knife, cap a screw head, cap a butt, or cap a
sheath. Some guys use it to describe a butt cap (above). And then
there's the whole "bust a cap in your *ss" thing. |
| |
| chape, chape mouthpiece, chape
tip |
| The word chape is a congener of "cap" and
"cape" named for a churchman's cover. In the old days, many authors
have referred to the chape in different ways. Shakespeare and
Fairholt , for instance, considered the chape the guardplate or
crossbars at the junction of the handle and hilt, however their use
of this term referring to specifics is what I consider vague.
Predominantly and currently, it is defined as the metal trimmings of
a scabbard, specifically the metal mounting of a scabbard or sheath
at its upper (mouthpiece) end which bears the ring or hook for attaching it to
the belt. Curiously, in early use the term also means the metal
component covering the point of the scabbard (crampet,
bouterolle, or ferrule). So when
referring to the chape, you probably need to specify the mouthpiece
(top) or the tip end (bottom). |
| |
| choil |
|
A very
interesting word indeed. The definitive
origin is unknown, but there is an
interesting similarity of the word to the
Nepalese word "cho," that I talk about that
on my
Khukri page here. There is a lot of
misinformation about the choil, but it is
simply defined as the area between the
cutting edge and the tang. It may be an area
that is angled, cut out, milled, or shaped
in a decorative or functional way to create
a specific point at which sharpening of the
edge starts. The cut of a choil may create a
finger shaped indentation, but it is NOT an
additional finger groove. Anyone putting
their finger there would be certain of
experiencing a vicious cut if the finger
slid foreword only slightly. So this is
another one of those wives' tales, started
by someone who is not familiar with daily
tactical, or practical working knife use and
carry. You'll see it posted on internet
sites that you put your finger there to "choke up" on the knife
grip. If you have to move your finger onto the blade to get a good
grip, you've got the wrong knife in your hand for the task. Today, most well made knives have
some type of choil cut, so that sharpening on a
stone will not create a rough or ragged
indentation at the grind termination. Of
course, as a knife blade is used up, the
choil geometry eventually disappears with
repeated sharpenings as the blade shape
changes. Read more about that on my
"Blades" page here.
|
| |
| CQC, CQB Knives |
| Acronyms for Close Quarters Combat and Close
Quarters Battle. These terms are reserved for serious combat knives,
usually made for and used by the military for killing or disabling
the enemy. Though many manufacturers claim their knives are
"tactical" or "combat duty," you might question why a serviceman in
combat would carry a cheap piece of manufactured junk into battle...
see my
Military Combat Knives page here. These knives are designed to
slash, pierce, and cut, with overbuilt blades, heavy duty fittings,
and extremely stout sheaths and materials. |
| |
| crampet, crampette |
| This is another term for a chape (see above).
In this case, it means to restrain or constrict, by metal,
referring, I believe, to the function of the metal chape parts to
constrain the wood or leather of the sheath or scabbard and protect
it from splitting or damage. |
| |
| crossguard |
| Please see guard below. |
| |
| CSAR Knives |
| Acronym for Combat Search And Rescue knives.
These knives are designed with not only combat applications built in
(See CQC, CQB above), but also with rescue features, like thicker,
heavier points for scraping, digging, and carving. They also may
have heavier, thicker grinds for light chopping and shelter
building, and serrations or rip teeth for sawing. Like the CQC
knives above, they very tough, stout, and designed for rough duty
and lifesaving work. See some of the best
CSAR knives
made for USAF Pararescue, our nation's top military rescue service
here. |
| |
| cutting edge |
|
It is
best to use the words cutting and edge
together. If you use the word "edge"
alone, it could refer to the edge of the
bolster, the edge of the handle scales,
or the edge of the filework on the
spine. It might refer to the "edge" a
maker has over his contemporaries. The cutting edge is the working
part of the knife, the very thing that
makes it a knife. There are many ways to
create the cutting edge, but the cross
sectional geometry is the most important
aspect, and I go into great detail on my
"Blades Page" here.
|
| |
| detent, detent ball |
| That which catches or locks a movement. In
some folding knives, a small hole (detent) is placed in the blade to
help a small detent ball (usually hardened and wear-resistant) find
it's resting place. As the blade is closed, the spring-supported
ball falls into the detent, pulling and holding the blade closed. Though this is
a widespread application, there are others in use for knives,
mechanisms, sheaths, and knife apparatus. Hey, now I know where
detention came from! |
| |
| divot |
| This is not a knife term! Some guys confuse
this with the word "detent" (above). A divot is a small chunk of
turf used to cover a cottage roof in Scotland, or burned in the
fireplace to keep warm. For you golfers, it's what you carve out of
the grounds. I guess in that way it's similar to the detent hole...
but maybe the guys using this term have spent way too much time on
the links. |
| |
| dovetail (bolster and
handle) |
| Refers to the angled cut of the bolster that
is mounted against the handle scale in full tang knives. I believe
that nearly all bolsters should be dovetailed, as this forms a
stable, geometric lock of the handle material against the tang. The
handle material must be accurately matched to the bolster dovetails,
for a seamless fit. Sometimes, with some geometric arrangements of
fittings and handles, the ninety-degree squared-off angle of
fittings to handles can not be avoided. |
| |
| EDC |
| Acronym for Every Day Carry, a knife that is
carried and used daily. I like to call this a working knife. Usually
a less expensive model, as the client and knife user knows it will
be used up, perhaps abused, misused, scratched, scarred, and
eventually discarded. You might be surprised to find out the value,
workmanship, and materials now used on working (EDC) knives. Knife
users are more refined these days, and prefer a fine tool and
instrument at their side. See
my working
knives on this page. |
| |
| escutcheon |
|
This is from the Latin word for
shield. It may be lozenge,
diamond, or shield shaped, where
bearings are depicted, marshaled, or
displayed. In modern knives, it's a
small plate, usually of metal,
embedded and/or mounted to the
handle, where engraving, etching, or
marks of the owner, maker, event, or
campaign may be detailed. Due to the
size of knife handles, this is
usually a very small plate, suited
to very limited graphics or text. An
escutcheon may also be mounted on a
sheath, but on my knives I call it a
Flash Plate, as it is ordinarily
used to flash military affiliations
or connections.
|
| |
| false
edge |
|
Refers to a
grind geometry usually on the
spine of the knife near the tip.
Not really a good descriptive
term; I prefer to use the term
"swage" (see below). The reason
is that in most well-made modern
custom knives, an edge is
actually formed at the swage,
one that will cut, even though
the geometry is thick. The
reason for the swage is most
often to reduce the point
thickness and cross-sectional
geometry without removing too
much material that would weaken the
spine. This is usually done in
tactical and combat knives to
reduce the combination of point
angles for greater penetration
force on a smaller surface area
at the point. So, "false edge"
becomes somewhat of a misnomer,
since there actually is a
cutting edge, chisel shaped and
often sharp. By the way, the
first idea every boy has when he
receives his first knife with a
false edge or swage is to
sharpen it!
See plenty of
swages through my
Tactical, Military, and Combat Knife Portal here. |
| |
| fantasy knife |
| Though this term has fallen out of popular
use since the 1990s, I think it's a good term. Usually refers to a
knife that is a total artistic concept, and is not a useful tool due
to geometry, materials, shape, or ability to be carried. Fantasy
knives are purchased for investment value and collection only; you
wouldn't use one to skin an elk or carry into combat. |
| |
| ferrule |
| A small cap or ring, usually of metal, that
covers the termination of a knife handle or component that protects
the edges, strengthens the arrangement, and prevents splitting. The
word comes from Latin (ferrum) which means iron, and
viriola which means little bracelet. Ferrules are seen typically
on hidden tang knives, where large turned or rounded handles are
protected on both ends. They can be simple or quite elaborate,
featuring hand-engraving,
precious metal inlay, or gemstone mounts. I use them also to help
bed the handle materials and to help distribute the forces of a
tightly threaded pommel mount on a hidden tang knife. |
| |
| fighting knife (fighter) |
| This is a negative term that is best avoided
altogether. This term was popular in the 1980s, but has fallen out
of favor with most knife aficionados and professionals because of the negative
connotations. Knives are not made for fighting, and prosecutors love
this type of term when knives make their way to court systems.
Though there are tactical knives and combat knives that are made for
military duty, it's foolish and irresponsible to label a knife for
"fighting." When was the last time you saw a professional knife bout
in Madison Square Garden? Factories use terms like this to appeal to
the macho wannabes in order to sell knives, but it does a great
disservice to our profession. I talk about this in detail in my
book. |
| |
| filework |
|
This is a
new term, and you won't find
it in any standard
dictionary. It refers to the
file cuts on the spine of a
knife, frequently extending
completely around the tang
of a full tang knife. Its
purpose was probably first
to improve grip security and
stop a thumb or finger from
slipping on a slick, smooth
blade spine, but it has
evolved into a decorative
art form. Good filework can
not be imitated by machines
(see jimping below), and is
a definite indicator of a
fine custom or handmade
knife. Read more about
filework on my
Embellishment page here.
|
| |
| finger groove |
| Depressions created into the knife handle to
accommodate fingers. They may be deep, shallow, or canted, and may
comprise handle materials, bolsters, or guards as part of their
geometry. Finger grooves should be well rounded for comfort, with no
roughness that would cause abrasion or fatigue from use. Multiple
finger grooves can be tricky to put on a knife, because of the great
variation of hand sizes in humans. See my
"Knife Grip
Tactics" page here for hand sizing information. |
| |
| fixed-blade knife |
| Refers to knives that are solid between the
handle and blade, in other words: not folding knives. Fixed-blade
knives are the strongest type of knife at the blade-handle union.
|
| |
| frog |
| The loop, as attached to the belt, to accept
the scabbard of a sword or dagger. For visualization, you could call
the metal ring mounted to your workbelt that you slip your battery
powered drill/driver into a frog... same thing. Hey, it's also the
acronym for "Finished Room Over Garage." |
| |
| full tang |
| When the tang of a knife is full, you can see
the edge of the entire tang all along the handle. You can see a full
tang knife in the photo above of the Spine
Profile. Typically, a full tang has bolsters and handle scales,
rather than a guard and pommel like a hidden tang (below). A full
tang is a solid piece of steel from tip to butt, and is the
strongest blade/handle arrangement. Handmade and fine custom knives
have a fully tapered tang (below). |
| |
| grind (blade) |
| This is what makes a flat bar of tool steel a
knife. The grind is the most important part of the knife blade, and
the hardest thing to execute well, accurately, continuously, and
properly finish. All modern knives are ground in some form or
fashion, even the forged knives have to be ground to be finished.
The grind is simply a way of thinning out the blade to accommodate
the cutting edge throughout the life of the knife. The grind may be
hollow, flat, tapered, or convex. I go into it in depth on my
"Blades" page here.
|
| |
| grinder marks |
| Not a good thing. These are the scars left on
the blade by the grinder abrasives that have not been finished away
by successive sanding and finishing. They are the bane of
knifemakers, as many hours are required to eliminate them yet
preserve the crispness and character of the knife. Probably another
reason knives are hand-sanded (hand-rubbed) along their length and
left rough, so the grinder marks can not be seen. Sometimes, on less
expensive models, I'll leave the grinder marks as part of the
finish, and I call it satin finished. The knife is ground to about
320 grit, and left unfinished, for a plain, useful blade finish that
the owner is not afraid to scratch. |
| |
| grind line |
| The line that is seen extending from the
ricasso to the spine towards the tip. It is formed by the hollow or
flat grind junction with the flat of the knife. The grind line is a
very important feature and indicator of a knife's geometry, form,
finish, and appeal. It should be crisp, clean, and not washed over
with too much buffing. The grind lines should be symmetrical on both
sides of the knife, and can be examined for symmetry by looking
right down the point with both eyes, each trained to one side of the
blade. Many makers and all factories have trouble with grind lines,
particularly if the blade is well-finished. I go into this in more
detail in my book, but it is one of the reasons most makers do not
finish a blade, merely settling for sanding it along its length.
|
| |
| grind termination |
| See "plunge" below. This is the termination
of the grind at the ricasso. A tough area to properly grind and
finish a knife, and makers and manufacturers have a lot of problems
here. This is an extremely important part of a knife! A knife is physically stronger if the grind termination is
gentle, rounded, and sweeping rather than abrupt, sharp, and with a
definite corner. If left abrupt, the knife will fracture at this
point when the blade is in a lateral bind with the handle. Consider
that the grind is on both sides, so if it is abrupt, it doubles the
amount of steel removed, and can create considerable thinness at
that point. Not good. That very spot is where the blade will break
away from the handle under severe stress.
Some guys call this a "shoulder cut" but it's
best not to use that term. A shoulder is the clearly defined flat
where the milled guard rests in a hidden tang knife, dagger, or
sword. See "shoulder" below. |
| |
| grips (grip) |
| The definition for grip is handle, so this
term is best avoided in modern custom handmade knives, though
factories often use it, because it sounds masculine and active. When
I think of grips, I'm carried back to my childhood, and think of the
plastic grips that were slid over the handlebars of my Huffy
bicycle. It's kind of a low-rent term for handle scales, handle
material, and a knife handle, and is vague and non-specific. I
suppose you could call the rubbery soft Kraton or Neoprene foam
handles molded to the knife "grips." I think this is a particularly
bad way to handle a knife. If the material is soft and flexible, it
has a very limited life on a knife handle, and is just not a durable
material. If you really have to worry about hand fatigue, you're
using the knife for the wrong thing, you're
using your knife too much, or you're weak. Perhaps some decent
gloves will help, and don't use the knife on vibrating machinery... |
| |
| guard |
|
A guard
is used to do just that,
guard against injury, by
protecting the hands from
opponents. So, the origins
of a guard were in sword
fighting where parrying
daggers and the strikes from
opponents could injure the
swordsman's hands, disarming
him. Here on the Internet,
you'll see it mentioned that
the purpose of a guard is to
protect the hands from the
cutting edge. Though this
may be a result of a guard,
it is the quillon that does
so, by keeping the hand from
moving foreword on the
blade. The term guard
in current times usually
refers to the entire fitting
including large, long or
independent protuberances of
metal that extend well
beyond the hand between the
blade and handle. Seems
simple enough, but actual
guards are usually described
on swords, daggers, or
hidden tang knives, and the
term is rarely used on full
tang knives where quillons,
often built into the tang
and bolster, do the job of
hand security. Simply put, a
guard is used to guard
against an opponent with
another edged weapon, not to
guard your hand from your
own cutting edge.
|
|
|
|
gusset |
|
I've heard some guys use this term to describe
the welts in a knife sheath, but that's not right. A gusset is the
piece of material in garb used to join and connect two angular
pieces, it's also the angled span that connects two ninety degree
components, like the support of a shelf. The word is derived from
the French word gousset, meaning "armpit" referring to the
material that forms that joint in armor or a shirt. That alone is
reason enough not to use it! |
|
|
|
gut hook |
|
A hook that is formed in the knife blade for
gutting game. It is used to hook around the skin of the animal, and
pulled along, the skin falls into the sharpened recess of the hook
and is severed. It is designed so that the person field dressing the
game animal does not have to use the belly of the knife blade to
create the main incision, because on most animals, the hair and hide are
very tough, often filled with dirt, blood, and debris, which can
dull a knife blade quickly. Since the gut hook cuts from the side
and inside of the skin, the hunter can preserve his main cutting
edge sharpness on this important step in field dressing. Hopefully,
if the gut hook is designed well, he will not lacerate the internal
organs of the animal which would spoil the meat with contaminating
fluids from the organs. For a
similar knife blade feature, see line cutter below. |
|
|
|
handle |
|
The handle of the modern handmade custom knife is
not just a thing to grab when you need to cut something, it is the
union with the human hand and a great canvas for works of knife art.
The handle comprises many components including the bolsters, scales,
fittings, sculpting, spacers, pins, tang filework, and many others.
Read more about
handles
generally here, and specific handle materials here:
Woods,
Horn, Bone, and Ivory,
Manmade Handle Materials,
Gemstone Knife
Handles. I've included hundreds and hundreds of pictures on
these pages and plenty of information. |
|
|
|
hand-rubbed (blade) |
|
I don't like them. Lots of makers do them. You
grind a knife blade to 220 grit, then clamp the blade horizontally,
wrap a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood or leather and
start hand sanding. I've seen this finish done up to 1200 grit, but
it still looks unfinished to me. I think that many makers have
problems with good finishing, so they rub. I know I'll get more
angry email on this one, but it's nothing I haven't heard before.
Some people actually ask for this finish, and I've done it, too, but
I don't like it. I talk about it on my
Blades
page here. |
|
|
|
heft |
|
In the old days, this term actually meant the
hilt (a dialectic variation of haft), but that use is
obsolete in America. Because the word also descends from heave,
currently it is a subjective term to describe the combination of
weight and balance of a knife. A weak, thin knife will feel light in
heft, a solid, substantial knife will feel "hefty." Since every
person is different, this feeling is entirely subjective, but I like
to make most of my knives solid, firm, and having good balance and
heft. A thin, light, and flimsy knife may not be up to the task,
unless it's a fillet, boning, paring, or chef's knife, where you
want less heft and more flexibility. |
|
|
|
hidden tang |
|
The hidden tang is described in detail above, at
Knife Anatomy pictures 10-12. This
type of tang is hidden completely beneath handle material usually
held between the guard and the pommel. Though not as strong as the
full tang knife, it can be made quite serviceable. See also "stacked
tang" and "stick tang" below. |
|
|
| hilt |
|
From
the Anglo-Saxon word hilt, or
hilte,
Old High German helza,
or Old Norwegian, hjalt. It simply
means the handle of a
sword or dagger. A
single-edged modern
knife does not have a
hilt; it has a handle.
The term is best
relegated to swords and
daggers only, not
general knives. There
are many components to
the hilt, including the
quillons, grip, pommel,
knuckle bows, pas de' ane, and crossguard of a
sword, and various other
components.
|
|
|
|
integral |
|
This term usually refers to a knife that has been
milled down from a very thick piece of stock. Usually applied to
full tang knife design, this means that the thickest part of the
metallic parts of a knife, usually the bolsters, are actually the
same solid piece of steel as the blade and tang. The reason for this
is to create a very strong blade-bolster-tang junction. One has to
question the high extra added expense of doing this, though some
clients request it. I believe that the weakest part of the knife is
the tip, so extra strength at the bolster area is usually not
necessary. Rarely, if ever, does a bolster snap off or become
unattached or loose from any well-made knife, in example: in
the thousands of knives I've made, I've never had one single problem
with any bolster, ever. One might question whether all this thick
stock milling is actually necessary, or if it may be a gimmick or
perhaps a way of turning over knife construction to a CNC milling
machine. More about this in my book. |
|
|
|
isometric |
|
Means: of or exhibiting equality in dimensions or
measurements. This term is usually applied to daggers, which are
ordinarily balanced on both cutting edges and of equal dimensions
and handle shape, no matter the orientation and view. In simpler
terms, the profile (shape of the blade and handle) is the same
whether viewed from the obverse side or the reverse side. The only
way to tell which side is which is the maker's mark, which is always
placed on the obverse side. A blade may be isometric but the handle
not, and also the handle may be isometric but the blade not. |
|
|
|
jimping |
|
The old word, "jimp" that came
from North England and Scotland, means neat, handsome, and slender in form.
The knife industry designated regular machined cuts or cross-hatched patterns on
the back of the spine of the knife to improve traction of the fingertips
"jimping." They still call those regular spaced machine-made cuts jimping, but
the in the custom and handmade knife world has evolved into artistic filework. Jimping may be
machine cut by automated slitters, mills, or blades, but filework must be
hand-cut. In my world, calling filework jimping is an insult. Read more about
filework on my
Embellishment
page here.
|
|
|
| lanyard, lanyard
hole |
|
A
lanyard is a thong
or strap used as an
extra measure of
security. The
lanyard is often
mounted through a
hole, milled,
drilled, forged or
carved, usually
through the butt of
the handle, at the
rear bolster, tang,
and sometimes
pommel. The lanyard
may be wrapped
around a wrist,
around the neck
(probably a bad
practice), or tied
to the body so the
knife is secure. I
have lots of clients
who insist on
lanyards onboard
ship. A short
lanyard may assist
in extracting or
pulling the knife
from the sheath,
particularly if the
sheath is deep and
protective. The use
of a lanyard must be
carefully
considered, because
the strap or thong
may hang up on
machinery, gear, and
brush, adding
difficulty and
frustration (or
danger) to
carrying the knife
in the field. Most
of my lanyards
extend through the
tang, for great
strength and
security. In wood,
horn, bone, and
ivory handles, if
there is no rear
bolster in a full
tang knife, the
lanyard hole is
usually lined with a
metal tube, to
protect the handle
material from
splitting, stress,
and wear. I use the
term "thong tube"
and "thong" less
frequently these
days, as there might
be confusion with
modern female
undergarments...
and that is no place for a knife! |
| |
| lead-off (grind) |
| The grind lead-off is the geometry of the
grind as it leads off the spine toward the tip of the blade. This is
another tough spot to properly create and finish on the modern
custom knife. The balance should be controlled for the intended
purpose of the knife, the strength of the blade tip or point, and
the fullness of the spine. A tactical knife would have a much more
shallow lead-off than a working knife, which will be thicker than a
chef's knife, that often has the widest lead-off, and thinnest blade
at the point of any knife blade design. Like the plunge (below), it
is a tenuous area for custom knives, as the lead-off should be
matched at both sides, and this can be seen by casting a view down
the point with both eyes. |
| |
| line cutter |
| Similar to the gut hook above in appearance,
but usually smaller, and often placed near the choil or ricasso, the
line cutter is a specially shaped cutter designed to capture line
and sever it. Particularly useful in marine or wet environments
where a floating or wet line may simply float away from the knife
blade, and it would take both hands to produce a cut of the line
(one holding the line, one holding the knife). With a line cutter,
in one motion, the line is snagged and severed. Particularly useful
for small line and rope, monofilament, netting, and small rigging
lines. |
| |
| liner |
| On a folding knife, this is the flat plate
that supports the handle sides, spine, and blade pivot. Most liner
lock knives have liners made of 6AL4V titanium because of its light
weight, high toughness, springy nature, and good wear
characteristics. Other liners for different types of knives can be
made of any steel, but high carbon stainless steels are frequently
used. A liner is not spacer material! I've seen spacers called
liners, they are not. See spacer material below. |
| |
| lock tang (sheath) |
| On my locking sheaths, the lock tang (made of
304 or 316 austenitic stainless steel) engages the knife at the
thumb rise notch (below). This is the main movable component that
the thumb disengages to release the knife from the sheath. |
| |
| marlinspike |
| A frequent accessory on sailor's or mariner's
knives. This is a small pointed tool for working into difficult
knots to loosen them, and for aiding in braiding, working, modifying
or creating features in rope, line and cable. I've found them
absolutely critical if you have a difficult knot to work loose, and
don't want to cut your line. They can also have additional features,
like shackle-breakers, custom slots, and scrapers built in. |
| |
| marpat |
|
Acronym for MARine
distruptive PATtern camouflage, this is a relatively new camo
pattern used on military uniforms, pixilated with a blocky look,
it's supposed to blend in better with natural backgrounds. Why do I
have this term included here? Because in order to match that
pattern, I now can acquire marpat standard (woodland) and marpat
desert camo pattern kydex to use in my military and combat grade
locking sheaths. Just ask! |
| |
| mid-bolster |
| On full tang knives, this is the description
that relates to the sub-hilt of hidden tang knives (below). A third
bolster pair is attached to the handle (or milled), usually located
behind the area of the forefinger. This allows pressure to be
applied to sawing cuts, and additional security in grip. By using
bolster material here, thin cross-sectional areas of the handle are
avoided. For example, if hardwood was used here, the wood that
extends down the point of the protrusion would be small, thin, and
weak. |
| |
| molle gear |
| Acronym for MOdular Lighweight
Load carrying Equipment, the carrying method for the
U. S. Army and other professional services like law enforcement.
Modern knives should be compatible with mounting arrangements,
compatible with PALS webbing. |
| |
| mosaic pins |
| A knife pin used to secure handle scales to a
full tang knife, made of multiple small pins or wire assembled into
tubing usually with black epoxy. Sometimes a tube within a tube is
used, of varying sizes and arrangements. Back in the 80's
knifemakers could only make these pins themselves, and now they are
commonly sold by knife making supply companies. Since they are now
fairly common, I try to stay away from them. While they present some
visual interest, I believe a knife is much better served cleanly,
with smooth execution, solid and striking handle material, and a
good form. |
| |
| over-ground (blade) |
| When the grind plunge extends through the
spine, and the spine of the blade is significantly thinned at the
grind termination, the blade is said to be overground. This
substantially weakens the blade at that area, and that is an area
highly prone to failure. Many poorly made factory knives, nearly all
factory folding knives, and many custom knives are overground, and
this is controlled by matching the correctly sized contact wheel
with the blade width. Sometimes this is the only way to thinly grind
a narrow blade, so it is not always a deal-killer.
|
| |
| palm handle |
| Note: this is not a pommel! It refers to a
handle shape that accommodates just the palm of the hand, a short,
often rounded handle that does not extend out the heel of the hand,
but rests in the palm. This style is useful in many working knives,
and on field dressing and skinning knives where the entire hand may
be inserted into the animal when field dressing, and a large butt,
pommel, or rear bolster would add unnecessary length, weight, and be in the
way. |
| |
| pins, bolster |
| See rivets below. These are the pins used to secure the
bolsters to the knife tang. I drill my bolsters with zero clearance
pins through the tang and both bolster sides, and then they are
heavily peened for an extremely tight fit. They can only be removed
by grinding the bolster away. At least two pins should be used
through each bolster to prevent rotation, and on heavy knives there
may be as many as four. Bolster pins should be as large as is
practical without compromising tang strength. On small knives, they
are usually .0938", on larger knives .125", and on swords .250. The
pins should always be made of the same material as the bolster for a
nearly invisible union. More about
bolsters here.
|
| |
| pins, handle |
| The handle pins are he mechanical mounts used
to secure the handle scales to the full tang knife handle. They are
drilled through both handle scales and through the tang, usually
with zero clearance for a tight, permanent fit. Some makers use
decorative pin assemblies, made of pins arrange and glued in a tube
or series of tubes for visual interest. Since this is a fairly
common practice, I stay away from it, and opt for clean, light,
comfortably arranged pins that are small enough to show off the
handle material, and do not compromise tang strength. On tactical
combat knives, I use heavier pins. All pins should be the same
material as the bolsters for visual continuity. Some finished pin
faces can be engraved for a classy touch. More about
handles here.
|
| |
| plunge (grind) |
| This term has been adapted to modern knife
making to describe the line that terminates the grind at the
ricasso. I'm guessing that is because in manufacturing, the blade
"plunges" into the grinder at this point. In handmade knives this is
probably more properly called the grind termination. But plunge has
stuck, so I use both terms. It is a very difficult area for any well
make knife, and only the best, most practiced knife makers have
clean, sweeping, and accurate plunges. Since this area is easy to
see in an flat profile photograph of a knife, the plunge can speak
volumes about a maker's skill. I believe plunges should be formed
with rounded, sweeping lines both for visual appeal and (more
importantly) strength. If a blade-to-handle junction is going to
fail, it will fail more easily with a squared-off, sharp angled
plunge line than a sweeping, gentle curve. But a curved plunge is
hard to construct and grind and be balanced and matched on both
sides, so many makers and all manufacturers are lacking here. Read
"grind termination" above. |
| |
| point |
| This refers to the distal front end of the knife
blade, and more specifically the general shape of the blade. A knife
may be a spear point, trailing point, or drop point in shape. The
point is one of the main factors in determining the use and design
of the knife. The point is also the most easily broken area of the
knife, as great leverage can be applied on a small amount of metal
there. The geometry, thickness, temper, and design of the point
should all be carefully controlled by the maker. The most used area
of any knife blade is the first two inches, so the point is
critical. See also "tip" below. |
| |
| pommel |
| Directly translated from Latin (pomum),
this means "apple." Translated from French (paumelle) this
means the palm of the hand. On a knife or sword, it is an ornamental
globular ball that terminates the handle. On modern knives, it is
usually the tapped and threaded component that mechanically secures
the handle to the threaded tang or rod in a hidden tang knife. Can a
pommel have a hawk's bill or rear quillon? In modern knives,
yes it can. But if the knife is a full tang model with a rear
bolster, the word pommel is an improper description for the butt and rear
bolster. I've seen it posted on web sites under pommel definitions
that a pommel of some knives can be used to hammer in tent
stakes.... what? A hidden tang knife that has a threaded-on pommel
is already a weaker design, the only metal supporting the pommel is
the threaded screw that extends inside the handle. Try this, and
your knife may easily break. Would you hammer in a tent peg with a
1/4" to 3/8" machine screw with a small ball on the end? Of course
not. So if you need a hammer, go get one, don't use a knife as a
hammer! |
| |
| profile |
| The profile of the knife, sword, or dagger is
the predominate outer shape. Knives are usually and first
photographed in profile, and the patterns are show in profile. The
verb profile means to actually cut, forge, or shape the knife to the
dimensions exhibited in the profile pattern. |
| |
| quillon (or
quillion) |
|
In the very
old days,
this term
referred to
the arms or
extensions
in a
crossguard
that
protruded
farthest
from the
axis of the
sword or
dagger. In
modern
knives, this
also refers
to the
projections
that keep
the hand
from sliding
forward onto
the cutting
edge, or
backward off
the knife
handle. So a
modern knife
may have a
front
quillon or
quillons,
and rear
quillon or
quillons.
The use of
this word
has been
adapted to
modern
knives
probably for
lack of a
better term
to define
those
protuberances.
By the way,
the word is
properly
pronounced:
"key-on."
I frequently
violate
pronunciation,
in an effort
to be a rude
westerner...
even though
it seems the
word has
evolved from
the quill of
a bird's
feather, so
one would
think you
would
pronounce it
like that,
but the word
is French.
Does that
mean that
the French
of old wrote
with
key
pens
and birds
have keys
at the base
of their
feathers?
Ah, yes... er... we-we.
|
| |
| rabbet (rabbetted) tang |
| Also called a push tang (old). This is a knife tang that is terminated
somewhere in the handle, a tang that does not fully extend to the
pommel or butt of the handle. On fine handmade custom knives, this
may be necessary when using unusual handle arrangements, such as a
stag crown, where a large tang is desired, but the maker wishes to
preserve the natural shape of the crown. It can be secured
mechanically with pins, and sometimes by internal geometry which
makes an adhesive bond permanent and mechanical. On factory knives,
its often a cheap way to mount a handle, as the hidden part of the
rabbet does not have to be finished, saving expense, and it is short
and small, which saves on steel, and is not threaded or mounted,
which saves on expense and finishing. Often, gummy, soft, or rubbery
handle materials are mounted by being fused to a rabbetted tang, and
because they flex, their durability is limited. By the way, the root
of this word (Middle French: rabet) literally means reduced
or beaten down. Not too comforting on the durability issue...
|
| |
| recurve (recurved) blade |
| The recurve is a blade shape that is defined
as bent in an opposite, backwards, or unusual direction. In today's
knives, this usually means that the blade is curved downward, away
from the ricasso, or swept foreword like a
khukri, with a downward concave curve near the handle. Models of
mine that also have recurved blades are the
Hooded
Warrior, the
Magnum,
and
Horrocks.
Recurved blades can be difficult to sharpen, but have definite
advantages. Read more on my
Khukri page here, and on my
Blades page here. |
| |
| relief |
| This is the ground angle just behind the
cutting edge. The edges of knives must be relieved, that is,
material is removed at a low angle to the stone or sharpening
instrument so that a precise, accurate and thin cutting edge can be
applied (usually at a slightly higher angle). The relief is most
visible as a scoured or ground line extending along the cutting edge
of the knife. The cutting edge (above) is extremely small, barely
visible to the naked eye. I talk about the cutting edge in depth on
my "Blades" page here. |
| |
| ricasso |
|
This is
another
term
that has
changed
over the
centuries.
Originally,
the
Italians
meant
for it
to
describe
the part
of the
blade of
a
dueling
rapier
between
the cup
guard
and the
quillons,
which
was also
called
the
heel.
Nowadays,
we use
the term
to
describe
the
thick,
non-ground
portion
of the
blade
between
the
grinds
and the
guard or
bolsters.
In some
web-based definitions,
it's
stated
that the
ricasso
is where
the tang
stamps
are
usually
located.
This may
be true
in
older,
historic
pieces,
but with
modern
marking
methods,
a
maker's
mark or
identifier
may be
located
anywhere.
See my
page on maker's
marks here. In
modern knives, it's
often a
good
idea to
keep the
ricasso
as small
as is
possible,
because
it
offers
no
cutting
edge or
purpose
(other
than
increasing
overall
strength),
and its
length
is added
to the
cutting
edge
length
for
legal
descriptions
of edge
length,
even though it can't cut!
So the
length
of a
knife
blade in
most
states
is from
the
point to
the
guard or
front
bolster
face,
and that
includes
the
ricasso.
I guess
they
figure
that's
how much
of the
blade
| |