|
Military Grade Locking Combat Sheath History, Materials, Use, Options, Care Notice! I make these sheaths only for my own knives. I can't make one for a factory knife or other makers' knife. |
|
Testimonial: Hey Jay! Just got the knife today. WOW!!! The pics you sent me did NO justice to the knife at all. This is BY FAR the nicest knife I have ever owned! I was also pleasantly surprised by how nice the sheath came out. For the last few months I have been second guessing my decision for the locking sheath. Now I am glad I went in that direction. The pics I have seen of that sheath do not show how sturdy and well built that thing really is. I think you may need to show a side profile of that in one of the pics. That large slab of aluminum will show people its more than just kydex bolted together. I think your description says how it is built – but I didn’t understand till I actually saw it in person! Anyways, thank you for a GREAT knife! I will look forward to enjoying it for many years! Also, I'm already planning my next one. You can be sure that I will be showing it off to all my friends and letting them know about you and the quality of your work! (most already know as I've been talking about these knives for quite a while – but I think they will be astonished when they see they experience your work first hand) Thanks again, Adam Vuksich
|
|
The Combat Knife Sheath
Every now and then, I get a letter that moves me. It is one of the reasons I'm so hard on factories and other knife makers about their work. It disturbs me greatly to know that our men and women are not carrying the best knives into battle that this country is capable of producing. Here's one of those letters and my response. Sir, -TSgt H.L. Hello, TSgt L. Thanks for writing. And thank you for your service to our country. Your letter hit me hard. It is truly sad that manufacturers and makers of knives do not carefully consider the sheath when making and selling their knives, and do not consider the lives that may be at stake because they do not supply an adequate or useful sheath. All I can do is not make that mistake on my own knives. I’m sorry that I can not make a sheath for your knife. My locking and combat grade sheaths are constructed with the knife, in concert, so that components like thumb rises, ricasso ramps, edge clearances, and mounting variations must happen in the construction of the knife, so that a workable locking sheath can be designed around the knife, with the knife. Each individual sheath can only fit a specific knife. Unfortunately, I cannot build a sheath around a factory knife or other maker’s knife, as they don’t build the knife with the components and geometry that will allow a locking sheath to work. Beyond that, I get so many requests to correct inadequate sheath work that I would be out of the knife making business, and into the sheath making business only. Even if I did take on that type of work, it would require the knife in my hands while you would be left in the field unarmed. I do make an extremely good combat knife, and can make it to your specifications, to fit a specifically designed locking combat sheath of my own construction. I know my work is not cheap, but I’ve got one of the best track records of useful and durable combat and tactical knives and sheaths in the business. I know this does not help you at the moment. In the chance that they might be of help, I would contact the company or maker who made the knife and ask them to outfit their knife with a proper sheath. Please be brutally honest in their shortcomings of the sheath they supply for their knife, because it is your life and other lives at stake. Barring that, you may have to do what I’ve heard of other soldiers doing in the field: using found parts, moleskin, leather bindings, bent metal, screws and other parts to make their sheaths work. I’m terribly sorry I could be of no further help.
Jay |
|
History Years ago, some of my military clients (USAF Pararescue, our nation's top military rescue service) asked me if I could make a true combat grade locking sheath, one that would hold up to the rigors of real combat, something that they could trust to have their knife ready at the instant, yet secure the knife and protect the wearer during the high energy activity of combat, tactical, and rescue operations. They requested that the sheath be "bulletproof," that is, as tough as I could make it without extra weight. So I worked and experimented, and came up with what I think is the most durable, reliable knife sheath made, suitable for combat and rescue operations in the desert, on the open ocean, and anywhere the need arises. You can see more of these sheaths and the combat and tactical knives on my Military and Tactical Knives Portal Page here.
|
|
Materials The military grade combat locking sheath is made of about 40 components, all hand-fitted to the individual custom combat, tactical, or rescue knife. The sheath is matched to the knife and no other knives can be used in the sheath. The sides of the sheath are made of two layers of Kydex® thermoforming plastic (methylacrilate and polyvinylchloride), which is hot-formed to the knife bolsters and handle. The welts (or frame) of the sheath is made of one or two layers of milled and dressed 5052H32 corrosion resistant aluminum, and bolted together with blued steel or nickel plated steel Chicago screws. There may be one or several belt loops, and they are bead blasted and die-formed aluminum, secured with Chicago screws. The belt loops can be made variable, reversible from front to back or even adjustable for horizontal or vertical carry. See the thumbnail photos above. The locking mechanism is stainless steel, the parts are 304 stainless and 302 stainless, even the spring is stainless steel.
|
|
Appearance Most of my kydex military combat sheaths are black, with satin aluminum welts at the edges. Occasionally, I'll get requests for a different look. By custom order, I also use gray kydex, forest camo (traditional), desert camo (traditional) and even modern standard marpat camo and desert marpat camo kydex. An additional charge is required for these more expensive patterned camo colors. Just ask! |
|
Use The knife may be worn in any position, even upside down. The security is provided by the belt loops secured to a tactical belt (usually a 1.75" military grade nylon utility belt) which is secured to the body, and the tang lock bar that engages on the spine of the knife. To release, a simple combination movement of the hand is all that is required to pull knife from sheath. To sheath the knife, make sure that the blade is aligned correctly and slide knife into sheath until it "clicks" into locked position. Important: visually check or tug on knife handle to make sure that the knife is locked, every time you use it. Once locked, the knife cannot be removed until unlocked. News Flash! I've removed the close up pictures of the mechanism and the description, after I noticed that several foreign web sites were posting my pictures of how it worked. These guys can't come up with an original idea, so they're trying to steal mine. This also brings up an addition and curious benefit of my locking combat sheath. When I first hand a knife in lock-sheath combo to someone who is new to this device, they fumble, tug, press on the wrong area, and are confused by the mechanism and how it works. Because the mechanism is unique and original, the knife owner must familiarize himself with it. This takes about five minutes to understand just how it works. Several of my military clients reminded me that the moment of confusion in a combat situation may be exactly what prevents an enemy or attacker from grabbing your knife from your sheath, and using it against you! So I think its doubly responsible to remove the particulars of the mechanism and how it works in great detail from the public part of my web site. If you purchase one of my knives with this mechanism, you'll get complete instructions and details of its operation. |
|
Options Often, a client will ask for additional options for the locking combat sheath, most often in the way the sheath is worn or how it attaches to the gear, belt, or body. I’ve done several different things with the sheath mounting methods, but I have stayed away from too many devices, because they create "stand-offs" Stand-off devices make the knife stick out from the body even more, and that will hang up, snag on objects, interfere with movement in close areas (like onboard aircraft, ship, or within structures during sweeps) and be an extra source of concern the wearer doesn’t need at a critical time. That’s why I try to make the sheaths as flat and with mountings that hold the knife and sheath as close to the body as possible. Occasionally, someone will suggest a rotating element or removable lock and detents like a cell phone holder, but if you’ve worn a cell phone, you realize that it gets in the way, hangs up on things, turns and flips open at the worst possible time. That’s why they’re more often carried in a pocket, to be closer to the body. Also, this is a large extra expense to make and incorporate into the sheath. On some knives, I can incorporate a belt loop system that allows a horizontal or vertical orientation to the sheath. These can be complicated, so expect to pay more for this option. Also, the knife style may not accommodate this type of arrangement. Some guys request additional flat straps, which are really belt clamps, to screw the sheath tightly to the belt. These are made of the same aluminum, and can be installed and removed at the Chicago screws. Another option is to include a side release tab on the sheath lock mechanism. This is done if the angle is not big enough to insert the thumb, or if the user frequently wears gloves, or if they wish to operate the release from outside the sheath. It costs in security, though. It adds a protrusion that may hang up on obstacles, or could increase the possibility of accidental sheath release. |
|
Care My locking combat tactical sheath is probably the best made anywhere. All of the components are waterproof, it is assembled with waterproof cement and solid fasteners. Some minor care will allow the sheath to last as long as the knife. If used in dirty or salt water environments, clean by rinsing in mild soapy water, followed by a rinse in clear water. Work the locking mechanism by hand to make sure there is no debris that would interfere with a smooth hinge and spring operation. When dry, spray the mechanism with silicone spray lubricant only. Do not use oils, they will attract dirt and soften the waterproof cement.
If you have a problem with the locking mechanism of the sheath, please do not attempt a field repair. The mechanism is assembled under tension and once removed, the machine screws can not be reinserted in correct alignment. Just send the sheath (with knife) back to me, and I’ll tune it up for you for free! Notice! I make these sheaths only for my own knives. I'm sorry I can't make one for a factory knife or other makers' knife.
Maker's point: the military grade tactical locking combat sheath is difficult to make. Other knifemakers soon find this out in their own attempts, and usually just discard the whole idea. I've seen posts on knife forums where other makers are looking for the "locking mechanism that Jay Fisher uses" on his combat sheaths. There is no place you can buy the components, each are hand-made, and each sheath fits only one individual knife. This is probably why you don't see these kind of sheaths more often. The sheath adds usually $300 or more to the base cost of the knife. Why? Click on these thumbnail pictures, they are my typical bench set up for some of the construction, set up, and assembly of ONE locking sheath. Not shown: Bridgeport Knee Milling machine, mini-milling machine, two belt grinders with six set-up arrangements, disc grinder, three drill press set-ups, metal cutting band saws with 4 set-ups, and other jigs and machines necessary to create just one of these sheaths!
|
