Knife Anatomy, Parts, Names, Components, Definitions, and Terms
	
		Right now, you are reading the best singular knifemaker's website 
			ever made on our planet. On this website, you will see many hundreds of 
			defined knife terms, detailed descriptions and information on heat 
			treating and cryogenic processing, on handles and blades, on stands and 
			sheaths, and on knife types from hunting and utility to military, 
			counterterrorism, and collection. You can learn about food contact 
			safety and chef's knives, you can find out what bolster or fitting 
			material is best for each application and why. You can lean about caring 
			for a knife, you can see the very largest knife patterns page in 
			history, with many hundreds of actual knife patterns and photos of 
			completed works. You'll also be able to see thousands and thousands of 
			photos of knives, knifemaking, processes, and creations, with many 
			hundreds of pages of appropriate, meaningful text. You might want to 
			know why a knife blade is springy, you might want to know why a hollow 
			grind can last longer than a flat grind. You might want to learn about 
			some pitfalls of the tradecraft, and you might even want to have a 
			chuckle about funny and strange email requests. 
		You'll find all that here, on JayFisher.com, and you won't find it 
			anywhere else!
		 
	
		
		Learn 
more about Argyre
 
	
			I am committed to making completely and clearly the best knives in the world.
			--Jay Fisher
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	Warning: Copyright details at the bottom of every page
	
			Don't worry about using the wrong word or phrase if you contact me about a knife project. I'm expected to know these terms, not you; I fly the plane,
				you just tell me your origin and destination.
		 
	
	
	
		
			
			
			Learn 
more about Pherkad
		
 
		Welcome! If you are coming from the many links to this page on the internet, or if you are 
			arriving from this very site, you have reached one of the most popular pages on my web site. This is 
			because there is a great interest in knife parts, designs, components, anatomy, and terms, and a lot of confusion,
			misinformation and mistakes in knife terminology exist on the web. 
			In keeping with my commitment to service in my tradecraft and art, it is my goal to create the 
			best single knife maker site on the internet, and it's all thanks to 
			you: the public viewer, knife enthusiast, and aficionado. 
		You don't make several thousand knives in a career without 
			a lot of experience, thought, and details. So I've created a series of pictures and drawings 
			to illustrate knife components, parts, and anatomy. This will help with 
			conversations and knowledge about knives in general, and educate about 
			common current and historic knife components, leading to easier conversations about custom knives, their construction, 
			shapes, features, and details. I've sprinkled in a few large pictures of some 
			knives I've made with general details and descriptions so you 
			can get a good idea of the modern handmade and custom knife and its 
			description. Please enjoy my work!
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		First let me start off by saying that this site is great. I love the "Knife 
			Anatomy, Knife Parts, Knife Names, Knife Components". Who knew 
			there were so many parts to a knife?
			--D.B.
	 
	
	
	
		
		
			Learn 
more about the Golden Eagle
 
		Modern knife makers speak their own language, and if you 
			hang around them long enough, you'll pick up the terminology and soon be able 
			to distinguish an uneven grind radius from a non-parallel spine flat. It seems 
			every knifemaker has his own terms for his knives, and if you make enough knives, 
			you'll have to name those components somehow, just so you know what to 
			call them! Most of these terms are pretty well established, but may not 
			correlate with historical norms. For instance, the quillon (or quillion) of a 
			guard are the horizontal bars that extend perpendicular to the axis of a sword or 
			dagger, but nowadays the quillon also refers to the protuberances that stop your 
			fingers from sliding forward onto the knife blade and cutting edge. The French word quillon is 
			pronounced "key-own", but if you pronounce it "quill-yun", I'll understand.  I'll detail these 
			points as I go along, and I'll also continually add to this page with 
			sword and dagger definitions and details, terms and descriptions common to 
			tactical or combat knives, and maybe even sheath, stand, and case parts, if 
			you're interested! I go into much greater description and detail in my 
			upcoming book.
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		Aloha, Jay:
			I just want to thank you for writing an excellent treatise on knives.  I mostly deal with Nihonto (Japanese swords) these days, 
			but still have a great Damascus knife collection.  I'll be looking into buying one from you sometime soon.
			Mahalo! (Thanks!)
		Ken
			Ken Goldstein, Ph.D., P.E.
			President, Japanese Sword Society of Hawaii
			Kaneohe, Hawaii
	 
	
	
	 
		
			
			Learn 
more about Vespula
 
		Sophistic linguistic vain superiority, doctrinarian, snobby verbal 
			claptrap. A knife is just a piece of metal and a handle. Why bother? Who 
			cares? 
		Evidently, someone cares, as this page is 
			consistently one of my top three hitters on the website, 
			averaging thousands of hits every day, month after month, year after year. One may ask the 
			jeweler why there are so many terms for his tradecraft, 
			definitions for components and objects and specified nomenclature
			for areas and locations of a simple ring, bracelet, or necklace. Add to the 
			comparison that jewelry does not typically do anything but be 
			worn and present,
			whereas the knife is a tool and must perform cutting tasks, and it can be bewildering the
			number of terms and descriptions available in either the jeweler's or knife
			maker's world.  
		I do not claim any elitist title, degree, or 
			qualifications for naming and describing these terms, only 
			my forty years of experience making knives, and over thirty years as a 
		full-time professional custom 
			knifemaker. In the profession that I have, a substantial amount of research, 
			study, and historic perspective is necessary. These are the terms that I believe that 
			are most often used, defined, and carried in this field, in 
			contemporary times of the modern English language spoken in 
			the United States of America.  Even in our own country, there are dialectic 
			variations of terminology that can confuse definitions, so this is by no 
			means an exact science. 
		As expected, you can't make a serious business for decades and have a substantial internet presence without 
			running into critics. The internet is rife with critics, people who have no training, no experience, and no 
			measurable level of expertise apart from the ability to post (anonymously) their opinion. Since successful 
			people are targets, even the most definitive, current, descriptive, and referenced knife anatomy and definitions
			web page in the world is criticized. The ignorant will often go onto any forum that will conceal their identity and 
			make claims like "that website is just wrong." This is not accompanied with any logical, reasonable, or descriptive
			terms, words, or definitions, yet the ignorant will to on to claim that a ricasso is a choil and other such 
			ridiculous nonsense. 
		By the way, welcome to the most definitive, current, descriptive, and referenced knife anatomy and definitions
			web page in the world. I'll do my best to keep this critical reference page up do date. Thanks for being 
			here and sharing the voyage into monoglotistic indulgence!
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		Enthusiasts soon understand each other.
		Edward Irving
			18th century Scottish preacher
	 
	
	
		Congratulations Jay.
			It is rather refreshing to come across inspired and inspiring people like you.
			Many thanks for sharing your thoughts, knowledge, and expertise.
		--J. G.
			Portugal
	 
	
	
	
		A simple knife seems easy to describe. A blade and handle are the obvious terms that 
			generalize the knife as a hand knife. A hand knife is one that is meant to be in the hand.
			You might be surprised how many knives are in the world; there are knives to plane wood, 
			knives to shear steel, knives to separate particles in industrial process applications. In my
			upcoming book, I'll go into the bewildering classification of knives and blades, and our 
			government's idea that they can classify, track, and identify them all!
	
		
		
		Learn 
more about Izumi
 
		The following dozen illustrations point out and describe various 
			hand knife components and areas. It's easy enough to identify 
			specific components and their location (like the point of the 
			blade), other knife parts are more generalized to an area (like the 
			grind). Items that accompany, are part of, or are attached to the knife blade (like the bolsters)
			can have widely varying shapes, arrangements, and purposes.
		I use all my own knives and patterns for the illustrations on this page. Over 
		500 
			different patterns can be seen on my Patterns page, and the 
			Featured Knife pages describe 
			hundreds of individual knives. I'll continue to expand this page, the 
			definitions, descriptions, illustrations, photographs, and terminology 
			as time permits, adding new styles and arrangements.
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			This picture 
			starts what seems to be obvious. The knife has a handle and a 
			blade. The blade has a point (or tip) and the point often determines the use, 
			style, and connotation describing the knife blade shape. More on that later.
		The spine (also sometimes called the back) is the thickest, heaviest 
			length of the blade and supports the entire blade. The wider and thicker 
			the spine, the stronger the blade along its length.
		You might read elsewhere on the internet that it is debatable whether the 
			full tang or the hidden tang is stronger. This is not even a close 
			argument. The full tang 
			has full thickness across the width of the blade at the most critical area, in front of and 
			behind the front bolster location. On a hidden tang, this is where the blade is ground down 
			and reduced in size and thickness to a shoulder (below). The hidden tang also only has a small width of tang running through the handle to the threaded
			portion where the pommel is screwed on. So there simply is no way that the hidden tang is even 
			comparable in blade-to-handle strength to the full tang. The hidden tang simply has less metal 
			in the entire handle. Detailed description and illustration of the 
		hidden tang knife handle below.
		The handle of this full tang knife is framed in by 
			the front and rear bolster. The bolsters do exactly that, 
			they bolster the blade's strength in the critical areas: the handle to 
			blade junction, and the rear or butt of the 
			knife where heavy blows or impact require reinforcement. The bolsters 
			also help to protect and mechanically secure the handle.
		The pattern used for illustration here is my	Cygnus-Horrocks design.
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		A few more details here. 
			The thickest part of the knife blade: the spine, is also the blade 
			flat, the part of the blade that is flat ground and both sides are 
		typically parallel. It extends up 
			to the thumb rise 
			on this example, where the thumb rests in a traditional grip style, and 
			down to the ricasso, the heavy thick shank of the blade 
			between the grind and the front bolster. It extends (in this 
		illustration) toward the point. The grind or 
			hollow grind in this case is the part of the knife where the 
			blade is thinned along its length to yield a uniform, thin cutting edge. 
			The grind is a very distinctive part of the knife, and fine workmanship 
			is usually noticed here by how deep, matched, regular, and 
			well-finished the grind is. 
			Some older texts and beginners in knife chat sites and forums call the grind a bevel 
			but this is technically incorrect, since there may be many actual geometric 
			bevels on a knife, and a bevel is a slope or slant of a line, and 
			therefore straight. On a flat ground knife, one might call it a bevel, 
			but knives are ground in many ways: hollow, convex, tapered, flat, and 
			even a combination of grind geometries. Since modern knives are nearly 
			all abrasively ground, the area is called a 
			grind.
		The front quillon stops the hand from sliding forward on the blade, and in this knife 
			pattern, the hand is locked between the front and rear quillons. The 
			rear quillon also aids in removing the knife from the sheath. The 
			handle belly makes many knives more comfortable to hold. The 
			handle scales rest between the bolsters and should be 
			pinned, riveted, screwed, or mounted with mechanical as well as adhesive 
			means.
		The pattern used for illustration here is my
			Cygnus-Horrocks design.
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		A spear point designation used to refer to a double edge, but nowadays it can refer to 
			the almost uniform geometry of the point. If you were to bisect the 
			profile of the point, you would see a nearly symmetrical profile on both 
			sides of the center line, like a spear of old. In this drawing, you'll 
			notice grind terminology. The grind termination is at the 
			ricasso, plunges into the meaty part of the blade, has a 
			radius that delineates the transition between the grind termination and 
			and the grind line, and leads off the blade at the spine near the point. The grind termination 
			radius is determined by the wheel size if hollow ground and 
			other factors.
		The choil is considered the start of the cutting edge. In days 
			of old, the choil was perpendicular to the edge, and is often still 
			described as the lower part of the ricasso, the part that is unsharpened 
			and at the full thickness of the blade. In the modern knife, it can be 
			carved, fluted, fileworked, and a separate feature of a fine knife. It's 
			purpose is to have a definite location to start the sharpened edge of 
			the knife.
		It's interesting to note that for nearly all 
			United States locations, laws state that blade length is not the length 
			of the cutting edge, but the length of the blade from the tip to the 
			front bolster face. 
		In this drawing you can see why this rear quillon is often called a 
			hawk's bill.
		The pattern used for illustration here is my 
			Cygnus-Horrocks design.
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		Here is a remarkably 
			different knife. You'll notice the point is trailing, that 
			is the point trails higher than the spine. It has a swage, 
			which is a separate grind that can be sharpened or left unsharpened 
			(sometimes called a false edge). The purpose of a swage is to 
			reduce the cross sectional area of the point without sacrificing too 
			much thickness at the point. Then, being more pointed, thrusting 
			insertion is improved. Though the swage is technically not a separate cutting 
			edge, it can be made vey sharp by creating it as a single tapered bevel.
		This knife also has a blade with a deep belly 
			(the curved arc of the main blade). Serrations are usually 
			placed near the handle, for greater application of leverage. This knife 
			also has a separate chisel edge for hammering through 
			wire, and a canted (angled) line cutter. 
			This knife is designed for both tactical combat and survival.
		The handle has finger grooves, deep depressions that accommodate
			the fingers. Note that in this particular knife handle, there are two finger 
			grooves for the index and middle finger, and a wider singular depression
			for the smaller fingers of the hand. This can help the handle 
			accommodate	a variety of hand sizes, as the two rear fingers float.
		Judging from the size of the handle and blade, this is a large, heavy 
			knife. one can see that the blade would have substantial mass, placing 
			the center of balance forward into the blade.
		The knife pattern used in this drawing is my "Flammarion." A 
			similar model is the 
			"Flamesteed."
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			This full tang knife is double edged, and the top edge has a great length of serrations. 
			Though this is uncommon, the design is such that the knife can be drawn 
			through rope or textiles by cutting upward. Not a feature for the casual 
			user, as cutting toward oneself can be dangerous. This is clearly a 
			knife for the professional.
		Note the shape of the front bolster face. It is curved inward, concave, 
			so that strength and coverage of the bolster to tang junction is 
			increased. Note also the lanyard (or thong) hole is 
			milled through the rear bolster and knife tang for great strength. A 
			short lanyard (length of cord) is often used to assist locating the 
			knife in the dark, or underwater, and to aid in pulling the knife from 
			the sheath. It can also be used as a security measure wrapping around 
			the wrist, or be tied to the belt.
		This knife design has a long handle with a belly shape, minimizing the separate
			and distinct finger grooves. The heel or butt of the handle is curved downward
			to accommodate the heel of the hand. A thumb rise is even with a front bolster.
		The double edged knife nowadays is sometimes called a dagger, but this 
			is historically incorrect. A dagger is strictly classified as a short weapon used to stab.
			Since not all double edged knives are used to stab, this is technically incorrect.
			Typically, a dagger is nowadays referred to as a symmetrical knife with double 
			edges.
		The knife pattern used in this drawing is my
			"Oceana"
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		 Here's a full tang knife with a 
			drop (or dropped) point. The point "drops" 
			lower than the spine. It's a strong point whose curvature allows very 
			easy insertion in the sheath. Trailing point knives have to be eased or 
			carefully curved into the sheath to prevent the point from cutting the 
			sheath welts, but drop points can be self-guiding and the knife just 
			shoved in, often without looking.
		You can see that the choil is very pronounced on this design, and 
			that a greater measure of security for the forefinger than a quillon is 
			the full finger ring. Preferences vary and opinions differ 
			about the finger ring. Disadvantages: it can trap the hand, it takes 
			longer to thread the finger through, it adds to the width of the stock 
			and weight of the blade. Advantages: unsurpassed security between the 
			knife and hand. A finger ring is a frequent request and feature on my
			tactical 
			and combat knives.
		Note the sculpted front bolster face, an 
			advanced feature on a custom knife. Sculpting or shaping the bolster 
			requires a group of additional steps, and the bolster face should be 
			tapered away from the blade, not squared-off, as this may trap and hold 
			debris and make the blade difficult to clean. Additional pins and 
			mechanical arrangements to secure the bolster to the blade are well 
			applied here. 
		The knife pattern used here for illustration is my
			"Diacria" 
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		Another trailing point 
			with a swage. Previously, I described how a trailing point is harder to 
			sheath and from this drawing, you can see that the aggressive 
			point would rip right into the welts of a sheath if not carefully 
			guided into the sheath. The advantage of a trailing point is the very fine, sharp 
			point, the finest point of any blade style. It's, unfortunately, 
			weaker than other tip shapes, as the cross-sectional geometry can be very thin. 
		This knife has a tanto style blade, 
			very popular in recent years. One of the reasons is that where the 
			"Tanto Blade" arrow points in this drawing is a secondary point, 
			and the hand can bear down on that point by applying pressure on the 
			spine back and apply tremendous pressure in cutting. The line 
		prescribed by the union of the tip grind and the main blade grind is 
		called the dividing line or yokote (definitions 
		below).
		Note the forefinger groove that is 
			backed with a canted, deep back. This is to apply pulling pressure when 
			the serrations are ripped through material. I often call them "rip 
			teeth" because that is ultimately what they do. 
		This knife also has a rear hook, or 
			persuader. These protrusions of the rear bolster or butt 
			of the knife are used in tactical knives to "persuade" an enemy or 
			opponent along after capture, and as it is not sharpened, will not 
			usually cause an open wound. It can also be used as a glass breaker, a 
			point to hammer through tempered safety glass in an emergency. Other 
			names used for this device are skull crusher 
			(self-explanatory), talon, and cat-scratcher. The reason for that 
			name is that if the knife is handled frequently during tactical 
			practice, the knife user's arms will often be marked with scratches from 
			this protrusion resembling scratches from a cat.
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		This is what is contemporarily known as a dagger, a 
			double-edged knife that has symmetrical or double hollow grinds. The 
			center axis of the blade has a milled fuller or cannelure. The fuller or 
			cannelure allows a reduced central weight in the thickest area of the 
			spine without sacrificing strength. In essence, it forms an "I" beam 
			running down the center of the blade, and limits lateral flexion. You 
			will see this feature more on longer, larger blades, like sword blades.
		It is not a blood groove. The term blood groove is an American 
			colloquialism and means nothing. We've all heard that the groove is made 
			to allow blood to flow in a deep cut, but this is simply an uneducated 
			attempt at describing the fuller. The fuller is named for the special 
			hammer and anvil tool set (a fuller) used by a blacksmith to produce the 
			groove that spreads hot iron. In my book I go into greater detail about this 
			mysterious and misunderstood groove in a blade.
		This particular dagger was designed for tactical and combat use. It 
			is full tang, one solid piece of steel from tip to butt, and has wide 
			quillons to guard the hand. Since it's full tang, the quillons are 
			reinforced with a bolster pair over them, creating a very strong knife 
			indeed. 
		The handle has some belly for improved grip.
		The blade grinds in this case must be of a small wheel 
			diameter, to preserve thickness at the central spine of the 
			blade. Otherwise, the blade would be too thin and subsequently, weak.
		The knife used here for illustration is my "Charax" pattern, a tactical combat dagger
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		You've seen my 
			"Flammarion" pattern before. Nice knife! Here I have highlighted some 
			more components. The spine is the thickest, heaviest, 
			strongest part of the knife, and in modern hollow ground knives is 
			usually left at full thickness. This knife has an upswept 
			or trailing point, that is, the point trails higher than 
			the spine of the blade. Notice the belly 
			on the blade. It is the most convex part of the blade geometry, and in a 
			hollow ground knife, can be devastatingly sharp. Due to the geometry, in 
			tactical combat knives, creates a great slashing geometry rather than the 
			cleaving geometry of straight blades. It's very hard to create a good, 
			deep belly on a blade no matter how it is ground. Enough thickness 
			should be left in the blade stock for strength, but enough thinness at 
			the cutting edge for the geometry to be effective. 
		Notice also the 
			highlighted heel drop. This is at the rear of the handle, 
			and allows the heel of the palm more comfort. Humans have heavy, thick 
			tissues at the base of their palms, and the heel drop on a well-designed 
			handle can accommodate this human anatomy. Note also the finger 
			grooves in the handle.
		A similar knife I've made is my 
		"Flamesteed."
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		Hidden tang knives are constructed with a full blade and a handle that is supported between 
			the threaded tang end and the shoulder. The tangs may be straight, which makes construction of 
			the handle easier, or curved (as shown) which can create a more natural 
			handle shape. In some colloquialisms, this is called a "rat tail" tang, but that is 
			just wrong, and the tang may be shaped in dozens of ways. The tang may be a solid piece of the same steel as the 
			blade, or a treaded tang or rod may be hard-soldered or 
			welded onto the knife tang. 
		The reason for a hidden tang is a fuller, 
			more rounded handle shape, conservation of expensive blade material, or 
			design. Obviously, it is not as strong a knife as a full tang knife. The 
			weak areas are at the shoulder and at the threaded 
			tang end. For more details about strength, practicality, use, and 
		limitations of the hidden tang vs. full tang knife design, link to my 
		FAQ page at this section: Full Tang or Hidden Tang?
		The knife shown in this pattern is my "Aunkst" trailing point hunting knife.
	
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		 Right: hidden tang heavy knife construction, with 3/8" threaded 
		stainless steel rod welded and annealed to CPMS30V tang, all stainless 
		steel fittings, pommel, and guard on this "Yarden."
 
		Right: hidden tang heavy knife construction, with 3/8" threaded 
		stainless steel rod welded and annealed to CPMS30V tang, all stainless 
		steel fittings, pommel, and guard on this "Yarden."
	 
	
	
		 
		
		Here's the same knife pattern as shown in Knife Anatomy 10 above, with the guard,
			handle material, and pommel shown transparent. The guard is usually milled 
			through and can be soldered onto the 
			blade at the tang shoulder, creating a tight, sealed fit between the 
			guard and the blade. The handle material has a drilled and milled hole 
			down the center, where the tang sits. The handle may be multiple pieces 
			of materials, including spacers (see "stacked tang" definition below). 
			The strength of the handle is complete when the pommel, 
			which is drilled and tapped, is threaded onto the tang end, tightening 
			the entire handle. This entire handle, guard, and pommel assembly may be 
			filled with epoxy or bedding compound to solidify and seal the handle.
		The knife shown in this pattern is my 
			"Aunkst" trailing point hunting knife.
	
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		 Right: hidden tang knife construction dry fit, with all stainless steel 
		components for high strength and durability, with Sambar stag horn 
		handle on this "Yarden"
		Right: hidden tang knife construction dry fit, with all stainless steel 
		components for high strength and durability, with Sambar stag horn 
		handle on this "Yarden"
 
		
	
		 
		
		Here's the hidden tang knife, completed. You can see how the handle does not show any tang 
			metal for a natural appearance, and the shape of the handle does not 
			depend on the shape, angle, size, or position of the tang, so a full 
			sculpting of the handle shape can occur. Note how the quillons 
			and handle belly make this an attractive and comfortable 
			handle. 
		This is one of my most popular knife patterns, the 
			"Aunkst."
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		 Right:
		Completed hidden tang construction of this "Yarden" (see previous two hidden tang boxes above). Heavy stainless steel construction,
			stag horn filled with high strength epoxide compound for solid, permanent attachment.
		Right:
		Completed hidden tang construction of this "Yarden" (see previous two hidden tang boxes above). Heavy stainless steel construction,
			stag horn filled with high strength epoxide compound for solid, permanent attachment.
		
 
	
		Just found your website – New item on my bucket list – to one day have you create a knife for me!
			Beautiful knives, website and very informative; I just spent the last couple of hours (maybe it was more 
			like 4 hours) reading some of the most straight forward and insightful knowledge on knives.  My head is spinning !
			Wow and wow – thanks for all of the hard work on creating your website and one day . . . a knife of yours will be mine!
		--Danny Schmider
	 
	
	
	
	
	
		
		
		Learn 
more about this "Bulldog"
		
 
		There are thousands of blade shapes, but most fall into 
			several simple categories. Most modern descriptions for the shape of a 
			blade start with the description of the point. Points may be at a very acute 
			angle or they may be wide, even obtuse (over 90 degrees). The design of the 
			point may support a very thin grind, or a very thick one, increasing point 
			strength. The point may have a very thin cross-sectional thickness for 
			better piercing, or may be clipped off for a thicker geometry. Typically, 
			my combat knives have a swage at the top of the spine to decrease this point 
			thickness for piercing. Knives used for caping or delicate piercing and 
			cutting chores are thinner overall, as they are not expected to encounter 
			aggressive piercing movements. 
		Below are a group of knife blade shapes, classified by the point and blade
			shape. Though there are many other descriptions, names, and classifications, 
			these are the general styles I use today. Most contemporary knife makers, 
			users, and collectors will recognize the styles.
	
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		The trailing point is named for the point which trails higher than 
			the generalized axis of the spine of the knife blade. It is the sharpest point for 
			fine, delicate, and small work (such as skinning and caping game). The trailing point is the hardest to sheath,
			as the point has to be carefully guided and rolled into the sheath so the point does not poke and cut 
			through the welts, stitches, or side wall of the sheath. The thin and high point is also the  
			weakest structural area of the blade. The blade tip and sweeping belly are very useful in skinning game, as 
			the blade is drawn toward the knife user in a sweeping motion, cleanly separating skin and fascia. This blade
			design is mostly seen on hunting or game field dressing knives.
		 This is my "Aunkst" full tang pattern. Note the tall thumb rise for control and rear hawk's 
			bill quillon with large lanyard hole through tang and bolster. This elegant skinner was designed by 
			a professional hunting outfitter. The chrysocolla gemstone is stunning in color, pattern, and texture.
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		This knife is a tactical model with a very slight trailing point. If sufficient thickness 
			is left at the point, the slight trailing point can be devastatingly effective in combat use 
			for piercing. Note the absence of a top spine swage, as the point is thin enough without 
			the cross sectional-reducing properties of the swage. Even so, careful and skilled blade 
			hollow grinding practice must be applied in order to leave enough metal at the point to 
			preserve strength. The temper of the blade is also effective in controlling any possibility 
			of a brittle blade, and the point and blade should be tempered back a bit if the point is 
			thin, increasing overall toughness. 
		The curvature of the blade profile 
			allows slashing defense, and the thumb rise on this particular pattern gives a great deal of 
			control and considerable area for bearing down while cutting. This knife is easier to sheath 
			than the radical curved full trailing point above, but care must still be taken to 
			avoid piercing or damaging the sheath body or welts.
 
		The knife shown is my "Zorya" pattern, in mirror finished stainless steel blade and fittings
			with an orbicular jasper gemstone handle. Note the filework which can reduce slippery blade spines 
			and the notable quillons that lock the fingers into the handle. The blade has a sculpted choil
			for a defining termination of the cutting edge. See a 
		fine "Zorya" here.
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		This blade shape is very popular with combat and rescue personnel, 
			as the angle of the tip is less acute, and therefore has 
			more cross-sectional area and more metal to support the point. This is one of 
			the strongest points and can even reach a 90 degree profile. The knife has two separate 
			grinds and edges, one of them along the tip, and one along the major length of the blade.
			Where the two grinds meet is a thin secondary point, and pressure can be brought down
			on this point by applying force with the heel of the hand at the spine, useful for flat
			cutting chores. The two edges in this particular knife are also straight, which 
			can make the knife easier to sharpen. 
		This particular tanto has a half-length top swage, to create a more easy penetration 
			without sacrificing too much strength of the tip. The serrations toward the hilt are individually 
			hollow ground and can saw through hardwoods with ease. The thumb rise has good placement well 
			forward of the front quillon, and the front quillon is reinforced with complete bolster coverage.
		This is a version of the PJLT,  my most popular combat tactical rescue knife, and is often made for United
			States Air Force Pararescue personnel, as well as rangers, SERE professionals, and tactical emergency 
			response units.
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		Here's a Clipped point (or Slant point) on a mariner's and sailor's knife. 
			The point angle is increased, making the point stronger than a straight point or trailing point. 
			The clip point can have a very thin and aggressive point with thin cross sectional area, yet 
			be easy to sheath because it drops lower than the main blade spine axis. This particular blade
			is deeply hollow ground.
		Note the small, regular serrations near the ricasso of the knife blade, the well-formed 
			handle shape, and the marlinspike/shackle breaker. This is a sailor's knife, the 
			"Mariner."
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		Here's a good example of a clipped point 
			with a swage. The point has been "clipped" off (common in Bowie 
			style blades) at a fairly straight profile to increase the acuity of the 
			point and is ground with a swage for a false or real edge. Though the 
			edge may be left unsharpened, if the grinding and finishing on this type 
			of knife is well-executed, it can result in a sharp, taper ground edge. 
			The clip and swage creates a very aggressive point, and the knife is 
			easier overall to sheath as the point is lower than the main spine of 
			the knife.
		This particular blade has a bit of recurve, and a deeply ground belly. Note the radically
			curvaceous handle, with a full forefinger groove supported on both sides by bolstered 
			quillons. The rear quillon for the forefinger is also called a sub-hilt. This is my 
		"Ladron," an artistic grade collector's knife 
			in a modern Bowie style with blued blade, engraved steel 
			fittings, and gemstone handle.
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		A spear point description was historically used to refer to a double edge, but nowadays it refers more 
			to the almost uniform profile of the point, whether it has two edges or not. If you were to bisect the 
			profile of the point, you would see a nearly symmetrical profile on both 
			sides of the blade axis center line, like a spear of old. In this knife, the top of 
			the spear is differentially hollow ground with a small contact wheel, creating a true 
			double edge for half the length of the blade. A very effective and 
			devastating grind for a combat or tactical knife blade.
		This blade, like most double edged blades, should be left thick enough down the 
			spine to support the thinness that will result when the blade is hollow ground 
			from both sides. The knife blade should also be tempered properly to increase 
			toughness.
		The knives shown are my
			
			Prairie Falcon design.
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		Hollow Ground Swage, Spear Point, Double Edge (Spear-Swage)
		This knife's blade shape is not so easy to classify. It is definitely a spear point blade shape, 
			but the swage is actually hollow ground and is honed to a cutting edge. So you might want to 
			call this a dagger, even though it's not symmetrical. Another problem with that 
			classification is that the swage/hollow grind extends only along half the length 
			of the spine. This is considered a double-edged knife, thought the edges are not 
			completely along the blade. Classifying knives by blade shape alone is not always a clear task. 
		The knife illustrated here is my "Bulldog" a tactical combat knife. It has a very strong, stout thrusting 
			point for maximum penetration. Note the very wide and thick spine, and the strong choil 
			and forefinger quillon. The rear finger ring is for the forefinger, as 
			this knife is pulled out of the sheath and held in the tactical (reverse or defensive) grip.
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		Here is a traditional drop point (or dropped point). The point is strong, convenient, and sheaths easily 
			which is probably its best attribute. One of the most popular point styles, this makes a great utility knife. 
			Note the lack of bolsters on this particular knife, and handle scales of 
			stabilized wood, which makes this a very light weight knife to carry. 
			The lanyard hole is lined with stainless steel or nickel silver, which 
			strengthens it and prevents wear on the wood scales.
		A great number of sheath knives are drop points, it's a very popular
			style, and the angle of the drop can vary greatly. From a slight drop to 
			radical downward curves, the styles of blade shape are numerous in this point
			shape. Many modern hunting, field dressing, and skinning knives are drop points,
			and many utility knives benefit from this type of point. Since the point is 
			the weakest part of any knife, the drop point blade shape is well-applied, 
			as it does not have a thin, narrow point that can be snapped off if lateral 
			forces are applied.
		Mirach is a fine example of a small, utilitarian drop point blade style. I 
			have hundreds of drop point styles on the 
			patterns page.
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		Gut Hook on Trailing Point
		The frontal gut hook is more of a feature than a description of a specific blade shape,
			and the gut hook may occupy several predominant positions on the blade. Its purpose is to 
			split the skin of a game animal in gutting operations of field dressing by hooking over
			the skin and fascia, and being pulled along to sever it. This particular gut hook is unusual,
			because it's on a trailing point knife. The slight trailing point is not high enough to 
			interfere with the gut hook's operation.
		The knife is my "Cabresto" design, with a sweeping, deep-bellied blade for fleshing and 
			a contoured and radiused finger grooved handle for control. The full tang knife has an extended tang with 
			a lanyard hole for security. This is a very early knife of mine, made back in the 1980s.
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		The tanto blade can have several variations, including in combination with a drop point. The drop point 
			makes the knife easy to sheath, and the angle makes the point physically smaller, but oftentimes
			stronger if it is properly ground. For utility tantos, this is a great style, but it is beautiful 
			enough for fine collector's pieces.
		You might be wondering about the two edges by now. Sometimes, depending on the maker,
			his style and technique, these separate edges can be blended in the mirror finished form,
			with such close geometries that a clear grind line is not easily discerned between the 
			two grinds at the cutting edge, but becomes more visible near the spine.
		I believe that the tanto should never be ground without distinctive separate 
			grinds, always perpendicular to the cutting edge. So a rounded tanto point should
			still  have separate grinds, and if it doesn't, it's not technically a tanto.
		The knife shown is my 
			"Alegre," and this one has a bit of an extended length blade.
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		Like many knives, a tanto blade can sometimes benefit from the addition of a top spine swage. 
			The swage reduces the cross sectional profile of the spine at the tip, by virtue of 
			beveling both sides at a medium angle. I angle most of mine at about 45 degrees from the flat, which 
			produces a 45 degree beveled edge at the spine top and tip. Though you might think that
			this is not very sharp, when smoothly ground and polished, it can 
			produce a serious point and tip. This aids in piercing, thus the common use of swages on military, combat, 
			and tactical knife blades. 
		This model is the Mercury Magnum, a derivative of a SWAT team design for 
			professional tactical use. In the photo, you can just see the grind union of the 
			two hollow grinds where they join the flat, but are blended near the cutting 
			edge for smoothness. This is called the dividing line or
		yokote (definitions below)
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		In special circumstances, even a trailing point can have a swage. The reason this is rare is because the
			trailing point geometry is typically fairly thin, and the angle is usually sharp enough for piercing 
			if necessary, but the trailing point is not usually considered strong enough at the tip for combat tactical 
			use. Add the double beveling of	the swage, and you have reduced the material at the tip considerably. 
			This can only be justified on special purpose knives, like the one shown, that are ground from very 
			thick stock, and are left thick at the spine. In a thick, heavy blade like this SERE (Survival, 
			Evasion, Resistance, and Escape) tactical rescue and survival knife, the geometry is carefully 
			controlled, and plenty of meat is left at the tip to support the bevels of the swage.
		This is an unusual, unique knife that is tactical and defensive as well as survival-based. 
			The belly is sweeping, deep, and clean, a bit of recurve exists near the choil, and the blade has
			a chisel cutter with flat spine impact area, and a line cutter at the ricasso. The finger grooves 
			are deep for security, and the rear bolster is substantial and strong. This is my 
			Flamesteed pattern.
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		The upswept drop point looks just like the description sounds. the blade is generally upswept like a 
			trailing point knife, which leads to a good belly shape in the blade which is great for skinning and 
			field dressing chores. Instead of a fine point at the trailing tip, the point is dropped down, rounded
			over, or canted toward the axis of the blade. This creates a much stronger point than the trailing 
			point, which is much easier to sheath.
		There seems to be quite a bit of confusion about the origins, name, and description of this blade 
			style, which is frequently called "Nessmuk." Nessmuk was the pen name of  George 
			Washington Sears, a sports writer for Forest and Stream magazine in the 1880s. He took the pen name
			from a Native American friend he knew as a young child. He wrote "Woodcraft and Camping" after canoeing and 
			camping extensively	in the Adirondacks in 1884. Mr. Sears had a lot of experience with knives, not only 
			with camping, but three years on a whaling vessel. Mr. Sears preferred very thin knives, because these 
			are useable knives. He carried an axe for chopping,	and a small folding knife for lighter chores. 
		It's clear that Mr. Sears did not design or develop this style of blade. Knives found in the hands 
			of the Plains Indians were made by Lamson and Goodnow (the oldest cutlery company in the United 
			States) as butcher knives are remarkably similar to the Nessmuk style. If the blade was repeatedly 
			sharpened, then broken at the tip and rounded a bit, it appears as Sears' 
			Nessmuk. History aside, the knife shape was popularized by Sears, and the name is neat, so it stuck.
		A great example of a Nessmuk style blade is my 
			Pherkad in jade.
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		Dagger blade styles are very, very old. One might say that the propensity for double edges originated 
			in the stone age, and they would be correct. Today, daggers are simply double edged knives that are symmetrical.
			Historically, daggers were used only as weapons and not as tools, but I've made some daggers that double for 
			tool use as well as combat and rescue.
		Daggers are difficult and challenging to make, as four grinds must be uniform and equal. Fine daggers 
			are therefore a serious investment, and often worthy of the best handle materials. Daggers may be full tang
			(like the "Classic" shown) or hidden tang. The blade should have substantial thickness in the spine, as grinding
			away much of the mass of the blade can lead to a very thin piece of steel indeed! Planning and execution of a fine
			dagger should be a carefully thought out affair. Grind terminations should be well radiused to prevent stresses
			from concentrating at the blade to handle junction, and axis lines should be well matched. 
			See some fine examples on my Daggers page.
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		This style of blade point has had several different names throughout history, but they all mean the same general
			thing: the cutting edge is fairly straight, and the spine and point are rounded 
			convexly downward to meet the point. This is a very strong point for bearing down and applying 
			pressure from the spine of the knife for cutting tough textiles, carving wood, or any chore 
			where a lot of pressure will be applied. Having a straight edge can also aid in 
			sharpening, as flat stones may be easier to position and hold to the correct, uniform angle with this shape. 
		It is generally accepted that the dropping geometry of the point is more 
		abrupt in the Sheepsfoot style  than the Wharncliffe, but both are 
		very similar, and these distinctions of name are entirely subjective. A 
		maker or manufacturer may call his knife blade style by any name. It's 
		interesting to note that in the photo at the left, the geometry is 
		typically between the Sheepfoot and Wharncliffe styles. 
		Here is another historical curiosity about the name of this point. In current times, it is common to call this
			type of point a "Wharncliffe," a name originating from a claim that the Earl of Wharncliffe actually developed
			this point. . This is incorrect, as this point shape has been used since Roman times. 
		I wonder what the ancient Romans called the point. "Wharncliffe" seems to be more
			linguistically appealing than "Sheepfoot" or "Beak" which are 
			technically more descriptive and historically appropriate... such is the romance of knife making.
		The pattern is my 
			"Falcon" design.
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		Not specifically classified by the tip shape, the Bowie knife is an American standard, historically recognized, though
			not always clearly defined. Technically, most Bowie blade shapes are clip points, 
			most with a concave clip that may or may not be swaged, sharpened, or ground. In reality, any 
			large, heavy weapon-type knife that resembles period knives from the 19th century are called 
			Bowie knives. There are volumes written on the subject of Bowie knives, and many conflicts 
			in the description alone. I inserted this blade style in my shape classification simply because 
			it deserves the historical respect.
		 In the top picture, the Bowie has a concave clip point with a swage.
		 
		The bottom picture is a Bowie with a straight clip point with a hollow grind.
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		One would think that detailing the position and view of a 
			knife would be a simple thing, but a number of terms have developed 
			in the English language for areas, locations, and views of a knife. 
			Most of these have their roots in history and convention, and a few of them 
			are contemporary. A knife is not a vague object; in our history and humanity,
			the knife is the oldest tool and deserves special consideration in high
			detail.
		Below is a photo set of one of my knives detailing and describing 
			those names and descriptions. I've included a few terms relative to the 
			knife sheath also. The 
			knife I chose for these descriptions is my 
			"Alegre" pattern, a 
			tough, working tanto style blade, mirror polished high chromium 
			stainless tool steel, sculpted stainless steel bolsters, and 
			Polvadera Jasper gemstone handle.
		Knowing the location of a feature of a knife is important. Not only does it 
			aid in describing, illustrating, or detailing the knife and its features, it 
			builds a foundation for conversations about the knife. In the custom knife 
			world, conversation is everything, and understanding the location and area
			will help in those conversations, enabling the description and creation of 
			a fine knife.
		If you might wonder why knowing these terms is important, at the 
		bottom of 
			this section is a testimonial describing the very knife I've detailed. Mr. 
			Kramer, an artist and dedicated knife user, has designed this popular knife in conversation
			with me, and this would not be possible without knowing the terms and locations
			on the knife.
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		I freaking love you man, I don't know if you're even alive given that your website looks ancient, 
			but I came across your Knife Grip page while I was doing some research for a fight scene I'm writing 
			out, and your educational pictures made things so much easier to understand than what I found on 
		Wikipedia. 
			I don't really want to buy a knife, but thank you for the educational images.
		--Adam
	 	
	
	
		 
		
		This is a view of the Obverse Side. There have been many names developed for this side of 
			the knife, and in my upcoming book, I detail where those terms came from. It is 
			an interesting history, with ties to other metalworking trades and 
			industry. 
		This is the most commonly viewed (or observed) side of the 
			knife nowadays, because it is the side that bears the maker's mark. So, 
			it's also called the Mark Side. When the knife is held in the 
			hand, with the blade pointed away and the edge down (always a good 
			safety practice) this becomes the Left Side. Since it is mostly 
			photographed, it's also the Display Side, and often the 
			Decorative Side. It's also called the Front Side and 
			Die Side. These terms may not be all this side is called, but they are 
			the most common in our industry. This favored positioning is derived, I 
			believe, from the majority of people being right handed, and I go into 
			much more detail in my upcoming book.
		At the very minimum, this should be the dominant and available
			photograph of the knife. This is because history and convention 
			dictate that the maker's mark be visible in the primary photograph, 
			and an unmarked knife is a valueless knife.
		More about knife maker's marks.
		Here's another version of my Alegre knife pattern.
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		This is a view of the Reverse Side. Just like the Obverse side, there 
			have been many names developed for this side of the knife. This is not 
			the most commonly viewed side of the knife nowadays, because it usually 
			bears no marks or identifiers. It's also called the Pile side. I 
			won't tell you here why that is, it is a neat curiosity that I detail 
			in my book. When the knife is held in the hand, with the blade pointed 
			away and the edge down (always a good safety practice) this becomes the 
			Right side. Since it is the least photographed, it's also 
			called the Back side, and also the Undecorated side. 
		This is the orientation that I photograph my 
			patterns. The reason is
			since we read from left to right, I align the pattern handle butt
			with the scale, and measurement of the handle and blade is simple and up 
			the ruler.
		Just because this side of the knife is called undecorated and 
			reverse, this is no reason to give it any less importance than the obverse side. Because
			the reverse side is usually bare on the blade, it becomes a significant area
			for etching, engraving, or personalization of the knife blade. If a knife is 
			commemorative or marked on this side with name, campaign, or other personal
			significant text or graphics, it can be more important to the owner than the 
			obverse side!
		I always include the sheath in the photograph of this side if possible,
			as the back of the sheath is as important to the front in finish, style,
			decoration and embellishment. More important than that is construction, as 
			the belt loop size, placement, and mounting method should be displayed.
		Here's another nice "Alegre"
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		This is a view of the knife spine, so named since the strength of the blade is derived 
			from it. It's actually the spine profile since looking down on the spine allows you to 
			see its profile, thickness, grind geometry, tang shape and size, length, and finish.
			This side is also sometimes called the back, but this is an antiquated 
			term that is best avoided, so as not to confuse it with the back side of 
			the knife blade (the reverse side). 
		In modern knives, this is a very important view 
			to illustrate, as it shows the relative thickness, cross-sectional 
			geometry of the knife blade and point, the bolster or guard profile, the handle 
			thickness, and the tang geometry. This photo is of a full tang knife 
			(a solid piece of steel from tip to tip) and the tang is tapered for 
			weight balance and high quality construction. Note the dovetailed 
			bolsters, for a rigid and bedded fit between bolsters and handle material. This 
			view is also important to identify the edgework and filework, which has 
			developed into one of the key indicators of fine quality knives made in 
			modern times. More details on filework on my 
			Embellishment page.
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		It's important in modern 
			knives that have accessories (sheaths, stands, and cases) to include a 
			view of those components too, and how they relate to the knife. For a 
			sheathed knife, this view details the relationship in size between the 
			knife and sheath, the position and extension of the protruding handle, 
			and the handle components that will help a knife user extract (or pull) 
			the knife from the sheath. Here you can clearly see that the rear 
			quillon (or hawk's bill) aids in extraction. You can get an idea of how 
			many fingers can be wrapped around the handle for the pull. This knife 
			also has a lanyard hole through the bolster and tang, so by adding a 
			short, stout lanyard, even greater ease of extraction and security can 
			be gained.
		The sheath is more important than just someplace to carry the knife. 
			If the knife is carried, it will be the sheath that takes the brunt of 
			wear and exposure, and it is the sheath that will have the highest 
			visibility and dominance, not the knife. Since the sheath is part of the 
			knife and part of this tradecraft, I believe it is essential to create
			custom sheaths that are commensurate with the value, theme, embellishment,
			and quality of the knife. I go into greater detail about knife sheaths on my 
			Sheaths page.
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			 More
			More about Chef's 
			knives
 
		
		You might wonder why it's important to have a comfortable knowledge
			of knife parts, components, sides, views, features, and how they are named. The best 
			reason is that if you ever want to own a fine custom knife, and have significant input
			on its design, materials, embellishment, and accessories, you'll have to know enough to be
			able to converse with the maker of the knife.
		Below is the result of just such a conversation. Mr. Kramer is an artist 
			and craftsman in Taos, New Mexico, and wished to have his own, custom made, 
			unique and original knife to carry and use. The conversation started and 
			points and features were detailed, and the knife construction began. Mr. 
			Kramer offered various suggestions, preferences, and wishes, and I did my part
			trying to create his vision within the scope of the project. The Alegre is 
			the result. The name means bright, cheerful, colorful, and light.
		The design lives on, long after the first knife is made, and I've made 
			more and different Alegre pattern knives and will continue to do so, as 
			it is a great pattern. One of the finest aspects of the knife maker-to-client relationship is the passion
			demonstrated and continued long after the knife is sold. Below is a 
			vignette into that experience:
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		Jay,
			Well, Jay, now I’ve got a problem. I ordered the knife as a daily 
			user, to carry with me always – my third hand. Now that I have it, I 
			see it should be displayed on a shelf as a work of art! 
			When I saw your picture of the knife, my mouth dropped open. Now that I actually 
			have it in my hands, the reality of it takes me to an even higher 
			level. I am overwhelmed. What extraordinary quality and workmanship. 
			And the balance... I don’t hold on to it, it clings to my hand, 
			resting there as if it always belonged. You really put
			yourself into it. I’m speechless… but AWESOME (in a very loud 
			voice) comes to mind. You truly are an artist and a knife 
			your canvas. But, I am going to follow through and carry your 
			artwork with me every day. A knife needs a hand to make it whole. 
			It’ll be a good friend.
		
			
			 
		 
		Let me give you some first impressions of specific aspects.
			
			I read on your web about “balance”. Now I truly understand. Alegre 
			is a knife with a little heft for its size, yet it’s so balanced in 
			my hand. I also love how the handle belly, the upper arch on the top 
			of the handle, the hawk bill quillon on the rear bolster and the 
			quillon on the front bolster conform to the hand. The concave forward 
			extension of the front bolster turned out well. 
			Aesthetically it adds to the gentle forward sweep/curve of the 
			knife. It also works well as the thumb rest. I wondered if the 
			filing through the thumb rest would aggravate the thumb, but you 
			don’t even notice it. I will be enable to place a lot of thumb 
			pressure to the job.
		The mirrored finish, what can I say -- thanks. It takes the knife up 
			to a whole another level. I cannot imagine it without it now.
			I’ll say it again; your signature in the blade is perfect. An artist 
			signing his work.
		The dovetailed gemstones and bolsters shout quality. The fit you are 
			able to get throughout the knife is unbelievable.
		The filing is awesome. (There is that word again.) I didn’t realty 
			expect to get something that special. I love how it goes the total 
			length of the spine to the grind termination. The thin triangular 
			slice in the tip of the spine seems an extension of the filing; like 
			the tip of an arrow. It is wonderful how the filing narrows down as 
			it goes toward and through the rear bolster and yet you keep the 
			pattern going. Then it slowly dissipates, as if through years of 
			wear, at the front quillon. 
		Thanks for the filing in the choil. I didn’t expect that but I 
			really wanted it. I think it adds so much to the style of the knife.
		The sheath is amazing all in itself. The basket weave 
			is perfect. It oozes quality but does not shout.
		And then you threw in the extras. The museum display tag is a great 
			idea. The CD of all your knives is appreciated. Thanks.
		New Mexico… 
			You know when I found out I’d priced myself out of the original vision of the 
			knife, I was a little depressed. But your insights were helpful and 
			right on. I could not afford that much right now and I would have 
			never used as a daily knife.
			BUT... you still created a knife that reflects our wonderful state. Here is what I will see every time I 
			look at it:
		
			- The gentle arching top/spine is a broad, expansive NM horizon. The 
				forward sweeping concave front bolster, grind radius and tanto point 
				further accent that.
- The hawk bill rear quillon with its “eye” brings to mind NM wildlife.
- The Polvadera jasper you chose is perfect, maybe even more than you 
				realize. I love all the veins and various earth tones. The warm 
				color of the nickel bolsters blend marvelously with the gems. There 
				is a nice depth to the stones. You look into them. That adds a 
				richness and mystery. They remind me of the geology in NM.
- The left side gemstone, the one in your picture, has the red of a NM 
				setting sun. When you turn it over there is the white of the NM snow 
				topped mountain peaks. And then being an actual NM gemstone makes it 
				really special. Here’s a toast to the Polvadera mountains.
- And then, of course, the filling is the lightning (what a great name 
				you chose) from our summer thunderstorms.
ALEGRE ! ! !
		--Carveth Kramer
			Taos, New Mexico
	 
	
	
		Special thanks to J. S., forensic physician, and to all my forensic pathologists 
			and researchers that are interested in knives!
		Because knives are objects with many features, it's critical to present them, whether for purposes of record, illustration, description, or advertising,
			in various viewing positions. As described in the previous section, the 
			predominant view in the United States culture is of the obverse side. This is largely 
			because of the typical right-handed person's perception of the knife, and because in America, this is the location of the maker's mark. 
			Because knives have
			many worked, figured, embellished, and interesting features, it's essential to photograph or view the knives from various perspectives to achieve a better
			understanding of the entire piece. 
		The cost of photographing a knife professionally is traditionally high. I'll go into this more in my book, but often knifemakers do not photograph their 
			own work, leading them to seek out professional or at least skilled photographers to accomplish this for them. These photographers are usually 
			commissioned for
			a singular work, that is a key shot that the maker can use to illustrate and often sell his work. Since it's only one photo, it is severely limited in what 
			is illustrated. Photographers understand this and typically use a computer resident photo 
			manipulation program (Photoshop, Photopaint, Adobe, or others) to join
			at least two different perspective photos of the knife into one photo. Typically, this is the obverse side and the spine, but may also be the obverse side and the pommel, or the 
			guard, or a close up of the engraving, or whatever feature the knifemaker and/or photographer agree looks best for the piece. This practice has become the standard 
			descriptive method for knives being recorded, at least by professional photographers.
		It's important to understand the limitations of this method. Perspective is one, and simple lack of details is another. Another limitation, most critical, is 
			that there are areas of the knife (and often sheath) that are not illustrated at all, therefore, the person viewing the knife simply does not know what the reverse side
			may look like, or the full handle periphery, or the engraving except in a general way, because the photo is not an 
			enlargement. For advertising purposes, the knife
			photo involves a great deal of trust in the appearance of the rest of the knife, the parts one can't see from the 
			provided photo. 
		Limiting the photography makes sense from an economical point of view, but the internet has changed all that. It is 
			essentially inexpensive to offer, record, and maintain
			an archive on the active web of numerous perspectives and positions of the knife, and that is exactly what I try to do when I photograph my own work. This 
			offers an 
			unquestionable illustration of the knife for the person who is interested, or who may purchase the knife, and this includes 
			sizable and detailed enlargements and magnifications
			of various parts and areas of the piece. Who wouldn't want to see a four or five power enlargement of 
			the engraving?
		The positions of knife views then become (in the knifemaker's world) important to the record, and there must be some simple and plain way to describe them, so that 
			the person viewing the knife photos will know at what, exactly, he is looking. 
			This is not a complicated method, though it could become quite confusing 
			and overburdened with terminology, reference, components, elements, and 
			details. All of this extra and elaborate language serves only to confuse 
			what is, simply, a view position of a knife. For a ridiculous example of 
			this overly descriptive and embellished text, see the term
		distal below.  
		The obvious and clear method to describe the viewing position of the knife is to name it for the predominant 
			feature that the person seeing the photo will notice. 
			For the obverse side view, the text labeling the photo should clearly state that it is the 
		obverse side view. Same for the reverse side view. These are clear enough. 
		In viewing positions other than those, there are two possible choices. One is to describe the location seen as the viewing description, such as 
		spine view, or inside handle tang view. This descriptor clearly associates the person viewing the photo with the predominant component. Other positional view descriptors would be 
			pommel view, or sheathed view. These are simple descriptors that will 
			familiarize the person investigating, describing, and presenting the knife with the components.
		The second method of describing the view position is one of features. The person presenting the photo may use this to 
			method to describe the predominant artistic or structural 
			components of the knife (or sheath, or accessories) that he wishes the viewer to note. Often this is an enlargement of the actual area of the knife, so I typically 
			accompany the descriptive text with the word detail. In practice, then, I'll refer the reader and observer to the filework detail
		or obverse side rear bolster engraving
			detail, or inside handle tang detail, or reverse side 
			gemstone handle detail. Simply put, if the word detail is used in the descriptor, it means that the photo does not encompass the 
			entire knife at full perspective, but a portion of the knife the presenter wants to illustrate.
		These terms simply describe the locations, features, and details of the knife. The human mind then can fill in the rest, knowing what they are looking at from the description of the knife
			locations. See some examples below.
		Page Topics
	 
		Viewing Position Description and Illustrations of this "Thuban" 
		
			
			
			Obverse Side View
 
		
			
			
			Reverse Side View
 
		
			
			
			Spine View
 
		
			
			
			Inside Handle Tang View
 
		
			
			
			Obverse Side Handle Detail
 
		
			
			
			Reverse Side Handle Detail
 
		
			
			
			Obverse Side Front Bolster Detail
 
		
			
			
			Obverse Side Rear Bolster Detail
 
		
			
			
			Obverse Side Blade Detail
 
		
			
			
			Point Detail
 
		
			
			
			Sheathed View
 
		
			
			
			Sheath Front Carving Detail
 
	
	Another Nice Thuban:
		 More
		More about this Thuban
	
	Welcome to the best, most detailed, and largest knife definition terms list available in the world!
	Current count: 331 terms!
		
		Definitions and terms of knife parts and components have varied 
			through time, and you may repeatedly see the same commonly copied lists of knife definitions 
			that have been cut and pasted on many internet sites. My list is not 
			one that will be easily adapted for everyone's use (and this site is copyright 
			protected!), but I'll do my best to define some standard knife terms from the 
			viewpoint of a current professional knife maker, and stay away from vague 
			generalities you'll see all over the rest of the Internet. Some of the terms 
			listed previously on this page may not be included here, as they are already defined in the above 
			text.
		Describing the knife is an overlooked facet of this trade and 
			industry, yet it is probably one of the earliest conversations known to 
			man. Definitive terms relating to hand knives (excluding specialized, industrial, agricultural, 
			or manufacturing knives) have varied origins and history. Simple terms like
			blade come from European
			languages meaning leaf. Other terms like choil, have an unknown 
			origin, yet apply widely to knives in many cultures. 
	
		Terms of identification and description change and evolve over time, depending on the language 
			and the culture. If it's significant, I've tried to add a little history explaining that. New terms 
			pop up too, and will continue to do so. I've also included some 
			misnomers in the list, which are misleading and incorrect names for some 
			of the knife components because it needs to be clear that these terms 
			are not new terms, they are significant errors. You might be surprised 
			at who is using these incorrect names, and this does our tradecraft no 
			good. 
		It's important to note that my source for language originates in English, 
			specifically the English language spoken in the United States of America. This is different, in many ways, than 
			English spoken in the United Kingdom. Here, you are on a USA website, so I do not recite the UK-produced Oxford 
			dictionary, but instead the Webster dictionary which originates in our language and is distinctly separate from British 
			English. These definitions are in American English, not British English, so please don't write me and tell me my 
			dictionary, definition, or terminology is wrong because it's not what they speak in the UK. Don't list or send me
			sources of the Oxford dictionary; my heart is with Noah Webster, an American revolutionary who labored tirelessly to better 
			educate and improve the specific English language of America. So, in my own life, I embrace the liberty to use the
			American dictionary, Webster's dictionary, as my resource and reference. 
		I prefer the color gray to grey, and in my shop, I prefer an American clamp to 
			a British cramp. We also say that something could be ground down instead of grinded down.
	
		
			"England and America are two countries separated by the same language."
			--George Bernard Shaw
				1951 
		 	
		
			"Language as well as the faculty of speech, was the immediate gift of God."
			--Noah Webster
				1758-1843 
		 
		You might wonder why go into such detail about words, after all, the knife conversation is fairly simple. Please indulge me 
			while I illustrate: Three top search terms people use to find my website are design, pattern, and template, all 
		preceded by 
			the word knife. Nearly all of these people want the same thing, but these are not. A 
		design is the concept that is formed in the mind, in 
			our case about the entire process, project, materials, execution, and completion including record. The 
		pattern is a guide to the idea with all its 
			parts (there are many parts to the simplest of knives, including fittings, sheath, stand, and accessories). The 
		template is the flat panel itself
			that is used to scribe out the profile of the knife on the billet. So, the design creates the pattern which is made solid in the template. The design
			is the idea, the pattern is usually drawn in two dimensions, and the template is the piece of plastic, metal, or wood actually used to lay out the
			knife profile. And you thought it was all so simple!
		In the definition list, I've also started including some business terms that illustrate some of the practices,
			directions, and pitfalls of this tradecraft. Though I won't mention companies and interests
			by name, if you're reading this, you're intelligent enough to understand who and what I'm 
			talking about.
		Malapropisms: this is an important word, and it's not part of any knife! It is defined as 
			incorrect usage of a word by substituting a similar-sounding word with different meaning.
			The reason I've included this is because it happens a lot. Knife makers, knife manufacturers, and 
			knife enthusiasts will often make this error, and when it occurs, I'll do my best to point it out
			so that you will not be confused. I'm not trying to police other people's language, but in order
			to be crystal clear in my service to my tradecraft,  industry, and art, I believe it is critical
			that the language of knife making be as direct, correct, and error free as possible to avoid confusion.
			Take a look at the definitions of the word pintle and 
		pontil below to understand why. 
		Neologisms: these are new words, often combinations of existing words to describe a unique term. The word
			filework is a perfect example. File and 
		work are two separate words but when they are combined and applied
			to the field of knifemaking, they become a new word that describes a very specific and unique feature of 
			knives. By the way, the words knifemaker and 
			knifemaking are also modern neologisms.
		Colloquialisms: these 
			are words or phrases that are not used in formal, written texts, and are 
			conversational only. Why do I include these? Because this site is 
			written as a definitive, specific, current, and accurate text in the 
			handmade knife professional field, that's why. I don't want to encourage 
			sloppy, local, descriptive, and lazy text or speaking when I teach 
			knifemaking to others; this does our tradecraft no good. While I may use 
			these myself from time to time, I'm always trying to police my language,
			and if you are reading this, chances you are too, which is a good thing! 
		Abbreviations and Acronyms 
		and Initialisms:
		these are different, but I won't go into specifics here. They 
			are composed of the leading or dominant letters of words or phrases to 
			shorten their length, and the ones included have a relationship to our 
			tradecraft and profession. Strings of letters like HRC (Hardness, 
		Rockwell, C-scale) are actually initialisms, not abbreviations, since 
		they are the initials of the words that make up the term.
		
			Don't worry about using the wrong word or phrase if you contact me about a knife project. I'm expected to know these terms, not you; I fly the plane,
				you just tell me your origin and destination.
		  
		Please remember: all of the text and definitions you see are written by me, one keystroke at a time, 
			using my own experience in this field. I'll amend this page and list continually, as nothing 
			on the internet should remain static.
		Page Topics
	 
	
	
	
		Warning: Copyright details at the bottom of every page
		
			- Definition List Alphabetic Links:
 A B C
			D E F
			G H I
			J K L
			M N O
			P Q R
			S T U
			V W X
			Y Z
- Page Topics
- A
- AES
- The Abrasive Engineering Society is the source for technical information on all types of abrasives, 
				particularly grinding wheels and coated abrasives. Over its 60 years AES has been on the forefront of 
				grinding technology building a vast library of literature on evolution of modern grinding technology and a 
				knowledge base at core of modern day practices. It disseminates technological information, publications, 
				and information about modern abrasives technology worldwide. 
				Alphabet Links
- AISI
- The American Iron and Steel Institute. This society covers key public policy issues, 
					manufacturing technologies, commercial research, market development, statistics, and communications for 
					the iron and steel industries. AISI standards identify and develop steel information and specifics. They,
					along with SAE, are the source of steel designations.
					Alphabet Links
				
- ALICE
- This is not the little girl in Wonderland! This is the 
					acronym for All purpose Lightweight
					Individual Carrying Equipment, the Viet Nam era system for carrying and wearing small equipment
					on the body in the combat field. Though ALICE equipment is still around, it is being replaced
					by the more modern PALS webbing on MOLLE gear. Most of my tactical knife sheaths will fit the 
					ALICE belt with the eyelets, by removing the aluminum belt loops and reattaching them over 
					the belt. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- allotropes
- From allotropy, and the Greek words allos (other) and tropos (direction, way). So it's the other way. Allotropy is the phenomenon of 
					materials with the same elements or compound to appear in different forms. A good example is carbon; it can be a piece of graphite (extremely soft)
					or a diamond (extremely hard): it's all still carbon. In the knifemaker's world allotropes are important variations of steel when heat treated. 
					Allotropes are austenite, ferrite, martensite, and bainite, all existing (or not existing) because of proper (or improper) heat treating. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- alloy (steel)
- A substance composed of two or more metals intimately mixed and 
					united. Typically, in knife blades, these alloys are included to 
					enhance mechanical properties, aid in fabrication characteristics, 
					and add specific attributes to the steel.  I use a dozen different alloys in my 
					current work; all of them are hypereutectic and high alloy tool steels and stainless steels.
					Alphabet Links
					
- AMS or SAE/AMS
- Aerospace Material Specification. This is the SAE International, AISI standard designation and specification system used to identify specific 
					compositions of steels, particularly used in aircraft, and aerospace industries. Many of these materials are high alloy, high quality steels that
					the modern knifemaker can choose to use in advanced blades.
					Alphabet Links
					
- anneal (annealing)
- A treatment of steel to convert austenite and martensite to 
					pearlite, softening the steel, relieving stresses, and making the 
					steel ductile and malleable for easy machining and working. 
					With proper work method, this is rarely, if ever needed in the 
					modern knife shop, and I can count on one hand the times I've 
					done this in 35 years of knifemaking. Annealing is 
					done by heating steel to a predetermined temperature, and cooling 
					slowly over many hours to allow equilibrium phase transformation to 
					take place. The exact time, temperatures, and rate depend on the 
					steel alloy type. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- anodize (anodic interference coloring, anodization)
- To anodize is to literally "make the object an anode." This is where the word is derived, but just
					what is an anode? When some metals are put in a chemical bath, and electricity is applied, unusual things
					happen. This process is mostly used in electroplating, and in some chemical cleaning and etching, 
					and our term refers to what typically happens to titanium and aluminum. With the combination of current and chemistry, the surface
					of the material is changed. With titanium, a clear surface of titanium dioxide is created, which yields an unusual
					light property called optical interference. This gives the appearance of color, which is permanent and can be tightly controlled 
					by the maker. The correct technical term for this is anodic interference coloring. More about this on my Embellishment page 
					at this bookmark. With aluminum, anodizing creates a near-ceramic hard
					surface that, during the processing) is acceptable to dyes before being permanently sealed. This hard, durable surface can be permanently
					colored, it's tough and highly corrosion resistant. More about anodizing aluminum on my Tactical Knife Sheath Accessories page 
					at this bookmark.
					Alphabet Links
					
- ANSI
- The American National Standards Institute. Formerly the 
					American Standards Association (ASA), this professional 
					organization is the root of the of the United States standards 
					and conformity assessment system and is the source of American National Standards. ANSI is the 
					forum for the development of classifications and standards.
					Alphabet Links
					
- ASM
- This is ASM International, formerly known as the American Society for Metals, but now in international operation. It is the largest 
					 association of metals-centric materials engineers and scientists in the world. ASM provides information resources, including the ASM Handbooks, 
					 a series of reference books that provide data on various types of metals. These handbooks are recognized as a standard reference in the field of materials science. 
					 Alphabet Links
				
- ASME
- American Society of Mechanical Engineers. ASME promotes the art, science, and practice of 
					mechanical and multidisciplinary engineering and allied sciences around the globe. This is a codes
					and standards professional organization that advances technological information worldwide. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- asperity
- From the Latin asper meaning rough, this is the rough surface or edge of metal, particularly defined 
					when surfaces are polished (or not!). Asperity is improved (reduced) 
					in cryogenically treated steels, and these same steels can be made 
					sharper due to the fineness of the carbide structure created when 
					these steels are cryogenically treated.
					Alphabet Links
					
- ASTM
- American Society for Testing and Materials. Though this society went international, they still held
					on to their "American" title. They develop and maintain standards globally on thousands of materials, promoting
					safety, reliability, guides, specifications, and process.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- austenite (gamma-ferrite)
- A crystalline phase of non-magnetic steel created at high 
					temperature conversion, necessary to form martensite, cementite, 
					pearlite, or bainite, depending on the treatment process. More about
					austenite at this bookmark.
					Alphabet Links
					
- axis
- This term is reserved for daggers and swords 
					that have congruent sides, that is, are symmetrical. It is the 
					center line that extends from the tip at the point to the center of 
					the pommel. Good daggers are particularly hard to make, as the axis 
					can reveal any variation or irregularity in blade grind and handle 
					geometry. Depending on the geometry, I may have a
					single axis that is 
					straight, or one that follows the contour of the blade edges, 
					leaving a leaf-shaped center 
					flat. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- B
- back
- This term is best avoided 
					altogether. It used to mean the spine of 
					the knife, but as you can see in the previous sections, it can also refer to the reverse side of the knife, 
					or the back of the sheath. You could be  taking about your back, which is where a 
					trapesius harness could 
					be mounted. In the past, the term back could refer to the flat edge of the knife that 
					is not the cutting edge, but because it is such a vague term, it's best not 
					used, unless you're referring to the knife sheath, which almost 
					always has a pronounced front side and back side. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- backwork (or worked back)
- This is a term describing filing (working) the spine of the knife blade. Some texts by experts on older knives
					use this term, but it is a poor description: vague and non-specific. 
					Filework is a  more accurate term, because the 
					work is accomplished with a metal hand file, and can extend from the spine, around the handle tang, the butt, and the 
					inside of the handle tang to the choil. Filework can also be accomplished on spacers, liners, and accessory features 
					like sheaths. If the spine of the knife is engraved, the words worked back are non-specific, and it should simply 
					be called an engraved spine. Since the term worked back or backwork lacks clarity, it should not be used 
					when describing modern handmade knives. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- back, sheath
- Specifically, the part of the knife sheath that faces or is mounted against the body. The
					sheath back is extremely important, as it has the fixtures and/or mounting hardware to allow
					the sheath to be securely worn. This is, unfortunately, the least photographed part of the 
					knife/sheath combination, yet it is critical to actual knife wear. Also, many makers neglect
					to embellish or work this area, and I think that is a shame. More on my 
					Sheaths page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- bainite
- Bainite is a combination of cementite and ferrite, stronger than 
					pearlite. It's formed from austenite below the temperature that will 
					form pearlite, and above the temperature than which will form 
					martensite. More on 
					bainite at this bookmark.
					Alphabet Links
					
- barehead
- I've seen this term used to describe a knife that does not have a rear bolster. This is ridiculous, obviously a shop term
					or colloquialism that means not a thing. Heck, it isn't even a word. Bareheaded is a word and it means someone's noodle without 
					a covering. Yes, noodle is an actual defined slang version of noddle, which is defined as a blockhead's head, which 
					is who probably made up the non-word barehead. Why this is so ridiculous to me is because the placement of a rear bolster of any knife is 
					at the butt of the handle. So when did the butt become called the head? Hmmm? What is the right term for a knife handle without a 
					rear bolster? A knife handle without a rear bolster, that's what. Gees, is everyone a blockhead these days? Yeah, that's a 
					defined word, too; look it up!  
					Alphabet Links
					
- bargain, bargaining
- In this field, the word is mostly used the same as the words haggling, bartering, and dickering. It means reaching an agreement, typically by 
					a series of offers, counter offers, and counter counter offers; you get it. This is not the way fine handmade knives are commissioned or sold. This
					type of process is defined in many dictionaries as applied 
					toward petty items, and a fine handmade knife that sells for thousands of dollars is
					not a petty item. More about this as it applies to my own work
					at this link on my FAQ page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- bartering, to barter
- There are two definitions for this word. In this field, the word is mostly used the same as the words haggling, bargain, bargaining, and dickering. It means reaching an agreement, typically by 
					a series of offers, counter offers, and counter counter offers; you get it. This is not the way fine handmade knives are commissioned or sold. This
					type of process is defined in many dictionaries as applied toward petty items, and a fine handmade knife that sells for thousands of dollars is
					not a petty item. More about this as it applies to my own work
					at this link on my FAQ page.
 The other definition for bartering is the trading aspect of the negotiation. 
					Occasionally, items or services in like value are traded when agreement is 
					reached, such as trading exotic hardwood used to make knife handles for a fine  handmade custom knife. This is very infrequent, mainly because of the structure
					of our system, and the determined nature of the tax system to eradicate all barter. They do this because it's very hard for the government to get their cut
					of such transactions. One day, I suppose all bartering will be deemed illegal because it's too hard to regulate, track, and tax.
					Alphabet Links
- bedding, handle
- In most well-made firearms, the action is 
					bedded to the stock. This means a very durable, 
					long lasting, modern bedding compound is formed to the stock and 
					barrel. This eliminates torque, 
					stresses, and binding of attachment fittings and 
					hardware that may effect the accuracy of the action. 
					In knives, bedding the handle material to the knife 
					tang reduces stress and mechanical strains on the 
					handle material, eliminates voids and intrusion of fluids or 
					possible corrosives, assuring a longer lasting handle to 
					tang junction and greater longevity of the handle, 
					and thus the knife. Many handle materials benefit 
					from bedding, rather than simple mechanical 
					attachment, but you won't see this topic discussed 
					much by other makers or by factories. I have my own 
					processes for bedding handle materials. Learn more 
					on my
					Handles, 
					Bolsters, and Guards page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- belly, blade
- This is the deeply convex-curved part of the knife bladed (described in
					Knife Anatomy 4), 
					often seen on skinning knives where a large sweeping arc is 
					necessary to separate the skin, fat, and fascia from the internal 
					organs and body without presenting a sharp point that could pierce through into the 
					organs, possibly contaminating the meat or ruining a hide. 
					A large sweeping belly on the knife blade may be seen on any type of 
					knife, including survival and even combat knives. In a tactical 
					combat knife, the arc is advantageous in the same way that the sweep 
					of a cavalry sword changes the angle of attack, leading to a 
					slashing cut rather than a chopping or cleaving cut. I talk more 
					about this geometry in my upcoming book. In other definitions here 
					on the Internet, I've seen it stated that the blade belly contains 
					serrations, but I've never seen a knife made this way and it is a 
					poor idea, unless you are creating a saw. Even then, it's a 
					ridiculous notion, because the human hand and arm utilize a back and 
					forth linear sawing motion while using serrations, so having the 
					serrations in a convex curve is not ergonomically viable. Typical 
					internet hyperbole and misinformation.
					I've also seen it stated that the more curved the 
					belly of the blade, the less sharp the point can 
					be.... what? The point and the belly are different 
					parts of the blade, if you want a more curved belly, 
					and also a sharp point, the knife becomes a trailing 
					point, with absolutely the sharpest point of any 
					knife! It really depends on how the knife blade is 
					profiled and shaped. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- belly, handle
- The	belly of the handle (illustrated in
					Knife Anatomy 2) is the 
					shape that swells outward and downward from the centerline of the handle, and creates a 
					stronger profile that allows the forefinger and the smaller fingers 
					to have a deeper placement on the handle, improving grip strength. 
					This is due to the human hand physiology. When you make a 
					comfortable fist, the musculature tends to push the middle fingers 
					of the hand outward away from the palm, so this shape in the knife 
					or tool handle is often more comfortable than a straight handle. But 
					it is more expensive to machine and create on a knife, so you don't 
					often see handle belly well-executed on factory or mass-produced 
					knives. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- bevel
- The slant of a surface or a line. This is another general term that 
					is best avoided unless used with a specific noun. This term is often used by factories to describe 
					their grind, such as flat bevel or hollow ground bevel, or 
					taper bevel. It's also used by countless hobbyists posting on online forums, and they repeat it over 
					and over until it sounds like the right word. They probably do this because the majority of them flat grind a knife,
					since a hollow grinder is expensive, and most of them are using cheap 1" x 42" hardware store belt sanders 
					made for wood to make their knives. So, they can't hollow grind, and they grind a flat bevel on the blade (which is a 
					poor, cheap
					way to grind any knife). 
					The word bevel was also used by late 20th century knifemakers who would describe a 
					hollow grind as a bevel, even though the two are geometrically unrelated, as one is 
					concave, and one is linear and flat! The truth is, anything can be beveled on a knife, 
					from the grind, to the tang, to the handle, to the sheath thickness. 
					In modern times, there are much more descriptive and accurate terms. 
					Quite simply, a bevel is defined as the slant of a surface or line. 
					It is also defined as the tool used to mark, measure of indicate a 
					bevel. So, a bevel can help create a bevel- You can see how 
					confusing, vague, and non-specific this term is. Try not to use it, 
					unless you're talking about that specific angle, such as "the bevel 
					of a bolster dovetail," or the "bevel of an edge relief face." And please, don't 
					call the grind of the knife a bevel! It's a grind: a hollow grind or a flat grind or a convex grind,
					not a slant of a line!
					Alphabet Links
					
- billet
- Billet is a Middle English word of Celtic origins, and is derived from the Old Irish 
					bile which means a tree trunk or sacred tree. So the old meaning of the word is for a small section of tree trunk. In metals, billets
					are small sections of unfinished iron or gold, in our case, the unfinished or semi-finished bar of steel. This is 
					how steel arrives to the knife maker from a supplier. Though today we call them stock, rod, or bar, the actual term 
					billet is really more precise and direct. Billets are sold in lengths of 6 feet to 30 feet, and the typical knife maker receives 
					tool steels in lengths of six feet. Some of the more exotic steels are sold in smaller sections, for which there is no
					descriptive term, but bar.
					Alphabet Links
					
- blank
- From Old High German blanche, meaning shining and white, and without marks. In the making/manufacturing context, 
					this is defined as a piece of material being prepared to be made into something, and more specifically, 
					a piece punched, cut, or derived from a strip of material. In offhand machining or stock removal knifemaking, the blade blank is what is derived 
					from a bar or billet of steel. The bar would not be called a blank, since it cannot be determined as being prepared to be made into something; it's still
					a bar. A blade cut from the bar could definitely be identified as being prepared to be a knife blade, so technically, a cut-out or profiled blade is 
					a blank. After holes are drilled and grinds are initiated, it no longer becomes a blank, since it's not blank (without marks) anymore and becomes an 
					unfinished blade. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- blood groove
- There is, simply, no such thing. This is an American wives' tale, originated by the ignorant
					to describe a fuller or cannelure. There is no groove meant to drain blood from a stab wound, or 
					decrease suction when the knife is pulled from the wound, or any other of the ridiculous notions 
					that we might have used as children to describe what we did not understand. A fuller is used to 
					reduce weight without sacrificing strength in the blade (see fuller below). Don't use the term 
					blood groove unless you're a serologist talking about a microscope slide or a criminologist
					discussing the road stain of a hit and run.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- bob, thumb bob
- An interesting word indeed: short, abrupt, and having many meanings in many languages throughout history, but incorrectly used 
					in this application. You probably didn't want to hear that; it's so easy to remember, 
					but really, it is the wrong word. This use is probably derived from 
					the the definition referring to a knob, ball, or weight at the end 
					of the line, or a pendulum in jewelry arrangement.
					This is why this is not the best word to describe this appendage on a folding knife. More correctly called a 
					thumb stud, this is a small bar, rod, tube or fitting 
					that attaches to the spine of a folding knife, enabling the thumb to engage it and rotate the knife open with one hand. To be correctly called a "bob," it 
					would more appropriately be located at the tip of the point of the blade, and that would just look ridiculous! I've incorrectly used this word myself, but will give my 
					self a severe dressing-down and try to prevent its use in the future!  
					Alphabet Links
					
- bolster
- A bolster in a knife is designed to do just 
					that: it bolsters (strengthens) a critical area of a knife. In the 
					modern full-tang knife, bolsters usually strengthen the 
					blade-handle junction, the butt of the handle, and quillons and
					hawk's bills as well as mid-quillons and sub-hilts. All of 
					these areas can endure great stress, abrasion, or impact, and 
					well-designed bolsters can help by supporting the blade tang and 
					handle material. Though there are several ways to attach bolsters, I 
					usually pin mine with zero-clearance pins of the same material as 
					the bolster, heavily peened and spread through the knife tang. They 
					can not, and will not loosen, move, or fall off, ever. When you 
					mount them like I do, they can only be removed by grinding them 
					away! You can read more about bolsters, their purposes, materials, 
					and mounting arrangements on my
					Handles, Bolsters, and Guards 
					page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- boot knife
- This is an older, non-specific term for a knife worn in a boot. As the knife world has evolved, 
					it has come to mean any small, concealable knife, often with a narrow and sometimes double-edged 
					blade. Sometimes listed as a combat knife, this is probably not a good description, because no modern
					combatant is going to wear a knife in his boot, having to hike up his pant leg and struggle to withdraw
					it in a hurry. Also, how would this work on boots that are typically laced up? This is a generalized term
					describing a narrow, and sometimes concealable knife.
					Alphabet Links
					
- boutique shop
- I've heard this term used by knife collectors and users, and I think it's 
					a great term. It describes a small knife shop or business, usually started by an individual
					maker who has decided to go into volume production using his name only, even though the knives
					are created by several to several dozen other men, and often consist of parts that are farmed out
					to foreign companies. The knife bearing the maker's name is actually a 
					knife produced in a small factory, and is subject to the factory or manufacturer's mindset. The 
					business goal of any factory is to offer a product that is made as cheaply as possible, while charging
					as much as possible, paying as little as possible for labor, but charging less than a competitor. 
					So the knife becomes a less than quality item, as features, materials, and workmanship are whittled 
					away in the name of cost-based analysis. In this trade, I call this bean counter process 
					lowballing. 
					This means cutting labor and expenses while hyping styles,
					vague aspects of materials, or using heavy advertising promotions to push a product that is simple and cheap. 
					These knives are frequently made to the same general standards of imported factory knives, but the maker's name
					on the knife is heavily hyped so that a greater price is usually asked. You can probably name several right
					off the top of your head, and then swear they're the best knives ever. 
					Congratulations, if you can do this,
					you are a victim of advertising hyperbole! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- broken (back)
- It's what happens eventually to old knifemakers, fussing over endless pieces of steel, day and night, for decades. Okay, this is a 
					casual term to describe a long clipped point. I've seen it commonly used in describing 
					medieval works like seaxes. This is probably because rather than
					just "clipping" off the point of the knife blade (see the clipped 
					point above), the clip extends deep into the spine, more towards the handle, 
					sometimes up to a third or even half of the length of the blade. There is a technical reason that you might see this on old, 
					medieval knives,
					and I'll explain it in my book, but nowadays the phrase is used to describe the sharp downward angle of the spine that is longer and more than a 
				clip, 
					or clipped point. 
					Alphabet Links 
- butt
- A general description of the rear area
					of the handle of any knife, sword, or dagger. You might read here on 
					the internet that it refers to Bowie knives only, or that it's also 
					the pommel, and both of these definitions are incorrect. Every 
					knife handle has a butt, but the term is just the general location. 
					On the butt, you might have a rear bolster, a skull crusher, a 
					pommel, or a lanyard ring. A pommel is NOT the butt; it is simply 
					located at the butt of the handle, and is a separate, identifiable
					component that deserves its own identity. An important thing to note
					is that if the knife falls from the hand, it is usually going to fall
					on the butt, so reinforcement here is key. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- butt cap
- On hollow-handled hidden tang knives, 
					this refers to the component that caps (covers, tops, or terminates) 
					the opening. Though I've seen it defined in published knife making 
					books as a pommel, it is not a pommel. The pommel is defined below. The butt cap is 
					a simple and typically ornamental piece of metal that may be applied and 
					mounted to the butt of a knife handle for strength, for a surface to 
					apply pressure or light impact, for a surface to engrave or embellish, or 
					to prevent wear and splitting of the handle material such as wood, 
					horn, or bone. If this makes you suspect that some wood, horn, bone, 
					or ivories are not very durable when left uncapped with metal, you 
					are correct. A butt cap is not threaded on to the tang, because if it is,
					it then becomes a pommel. Alphabet Links
					
- C
- CAMI
- This is not the child's description of Marpat onesies the uber-tough infant wears. This is the older designation of the Coated Abrasives Manufacturer's Institute, 
					now called the UAMA. See more about that below.  
				Alphabet Links
- cannelure
- In more recent times, the word cannelure is used to describe a groove around a cylinder, like the ring cut
					around a bullet that may hold lubricant or the ring around the cartridge case that the extractor engages to eject the 
					case from the gun. But the very old version of the word is the French term for a fuller (see fuller below). 
					A fuller is the groove that is milled, cut, or formed down the center of a blade's spine axis, usually seen on 
					swords, daggers, or heavily-spined double edged knives. Cannelure simply means "to groove."  
					Alphabet Links
					
- cantle, cantled
- I believe this is an inappropriate term and I've seen this term used by a big knife manufacturer 
					(who should know better) to 
					describe the flat geometry of a cutting edge relief face, comparing it to a convex edge face. They call a 
					flat edge face cantled, and illustrate it as a flat angle. Cantled isn't even a word. 
					Cantle means to cut off a segment or portion, like a piece of cheese 
					or land sliced away from the main body and it originated to describe 
					a corner cut off a shield in Medieval times. This is not a 
					reasonable description for the cutting edge face. The face, if flat, 
					is technically a flat bevel or chamfered edge face. Cantle is also the name for the back of a saddle. This probably
					comes from the Scottish and Irish use of the term which means the crown, rise, or top of a road.
			 		Alphabet Links
			 		
- cap
- Here's another word that is probably best 
					avoided, because it is vague and non-specific. You can wear a cap, 
					cap a tooth, and on a knife, cap a screw head, cap a butt, or cap a 
					sheath. Some guys use it to describe a butt cap (above). And then 
					there's the whole "bust a cap in your *ss" thing. 
					At the very least, the kind of cap should be identified, like butt
					cap, screw cap, etc. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- carbides 
- Extremely hard particles in knife blade steels. These carbides 
					are sought-after in knife blade steels, they are beneficial to 
					extremely high wear resistance. Some metallurgists believe that they 
					play a more critical role in the durability and wear resistance of 
					steel than martensite. There are many 
					types of carbides, and all of them are formed with carbon and a less 
					electronegative element. In these steels, some iron carbides are Fe3C, 
					Fe7C3 and Fe2C. Some chromium 
					carbides are Cr23C6, Cr3C, Cr7C3, Cr3C2. Other
					carbides are molybdenum carbides Mo3C2, 
					vanadium carbides, niobium carbides, tungsten carbides and complex carbides that are 
					combinations of other carbides! Some carbides have complicated 
					crystalline structures, some form in interstitial locations of other 
					crystalline lattice structures. With all carbides, their effectiveness  
					depends on how fine they are, how well-dispersed, how high the 
					volume overall that is precipitated. A critical point is that the 
					three elements of chromium, molybdenum, and vanadium have the 
					highest solubility in austenite, therefore they precipitate the 
					highest volume of carbides. This is why these three are big players 
					in high alloy steels. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- cementite
- Iron and carbon with the chemical compound Fe3C. It 
					is a brittle, extremely hard ceramic substance. More on
					cementite at this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- center of balance
- The center of balance can be exactly pinpointed; it is the place at which
					the knife blade and handle balance. Most of the general use knives I make have
					the center of balance close to the placement of the forefinger. This creates
					a fairly neutral blade weight. Knives that need or have a heavier use blade
					(like my tactical, combat, and CSAR knives) often have a center of balance 
					more forward of the forefinger. Heavy knives like khukris can be extremely
					blade-heavy. Knives that are used in light duty or fine controlled cutting 
					can have small blades and be handle-heavy offering greater control. 
					Balance is a subjective characteristic
					and is completely under the control of the individual knife maker and is 
					determined by design and the intended use of the knife. It is not due to handle
					material choice, as some might suggest; most of my gemstone handled knives 
					have a neutral balance. 
					Alphabet Links
					
-  center of percussion
- The center of percussion (COP) is a very old term, dictated when large knives and 
					swords were commonly used as striking or slashing weapons. This is not a clearly
					defined spot on the knife like the center of balance above, but is the general
					area where the blade impact will not be uncomfortably felt in the hand. Even though
					most knives are not for chopping, heavier knives like my combat weapons and khukris
					can see some light impact, and swords and bolos a substantial amount. An entire volume
					cold be dedicated to this subject, perhaps I shall dedicate just such a chapter in my book. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- center scale
- This is an older/early term for the spacers between the blades of a multi-bladed folding knife. The term is 
					rarely used nowadays. See spacer (folding knife) below for more details.
					Alphabet Links
					
- chamfer
- Chamfer is a very old word, dating back to the 1500's, and means to cut away the arris (angle) of two 
					faces where they meet. The origin of the word in Old French suggest "can't break" probably because a sharp corner
					(think wood) may be a place where a sliver could be broken off. Chamfer (cut away) the corner in a bevel, and voila,
					the piece that would break away is gone. In knives, this means dressing the sharp corners of holes, profiled edges,
					or anywhere that a sharp corner is not desired, with a chamfering tool, which may be a mill, a file, a beveled 
					cutter, a machinist's edge dresser, or any other suitable item. Chamfering is typically referred to as beveled, 
					because the edge is beveled, not contoured, radiused, or rounded, and has a definite angled face. Chamfers are typically 
					done at 45 and 60 degrees. While a chamfer may dress down an edge of a tang, finger hole, or profile, it seldom
					speaks to high quality, as it is a simple machine cut and still has some well-defined and crisp edges, edges that 
					may cause injury to the hand. Radiusing is better, as the edge is rounded and smooth and less capable of abrasion
					or injury.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- chape, chape mouthpiece, chape tip
- The word chape is a congener of cap and 
					cape named for a churchman's cover. In the old days, many authors 
					have referred to the chape in different ways. Shakespeare and Fairholt , for instance, considered the chape the guard plate or 
					crossbars at the junction of the handle and hilt, however their use 
					of this term referring to specifics is what I consider vague. 
					Predominantly and currently, it is defined as the metal trimmings of 
					a scabbard, specifically the metal mounting of a scabbard or sheath 
					at its upper (mouthpiece) end which bears the ring or hook for 
					attaching it to the belt. Curiously, in early use the term also 
					means the metal component covering the point of the scabbard 
					(crampet, bouterolle, or ferrule). So when referring to the chape, 
					you probably need to specify the mouthpiece (top) or the tip end 
					(bottom). An outstanding example of a knife I've made with a sheath that 
					has a chape mouthpiece and chape tip of engraved 304 stainless steel is 
					the Desert Wind. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- Chicago screws
- I use special Chicago screws for my tactical, combat, CSAR, and professional sheaths and 
					accessories. 
					This is a domed head machine screw and tube nut, also called a sex bolt because of the male-female 
					components. The female tube is the threaded nut, and the length of the Chicago screw is measured by the 
					length of the tube below the head. The heads are usually made without screw slots and are 
					smooth and 
					polished. The male component is a machine bolt thread, and usually has a slot for a flat bladed screw
					driver. These screws are made of brass, blued steel, nickel plated steel, or stainless steel (304 or 
					316). You can see how they are used on my 
					Locking Tactical Combat Knife Sheaths page and my 
					Tactical
					Combat Knife Sheath Accessories page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- choil
- A very interesting word indeed. 
					The definitive origin is unknown, but there is an interesting 
					similarity of the word to the Nepalese word "cho," that I talk about 
					that on my	Khukris page. There is a lot of misinformation about the 
					choil, but it is simply defined as the area between the cutting edge 
					and the tang. It may be an area that is angled, cut out, milled, or 
					shaped in a decorative or functional way to create a specific point 
					at which sharpening of the edge starts. The cut of a choil may 
					create a finger shaped indentation, but it is NOT an additional 
					finger groove. Anyone putting their finger there would be certain of 
					experiencing a vicious cut if the finger slid forward only 
					slightly. So this is another one of those wives' tales, started by 
					someone who is not familiar with daily tactical, or practical 
					working knife use and carry. You'll see it posted on internet sites 
					that you put your finger there to "choke up" on the knife grip. If 
					you have to move your finger onto the blade to get a good grip, 
					you've got the wrong knife in your hand for the task. Today, most 
					well made knives have some type of choil cut, so that sharpening on 
					a stone will not create a rough or ragged indentation at the grind 
					termination. Of course, as a knife blade is used up, the choil 
					geometry eventually disappears with repeated sharpenings as the 
					blade shape changes. Read more about that on my	
					Blades page. Alphabet Links
					
- clip
- This could mean several things, like the fixture to attach a knife sheath to a belt, but 
					the predominant definition in our knife world is the geometry of the knife blade at the point. When
					the major portion of the blade spine is straight, and then near the tip the profile is angled down toward
					the cutting edge, this is a clip. The easy way to remember this is that the point is "clipped" off, as if 
					you were trimming the knife spine toward the point. This is 
					derived from the definition of the word to curtail
					or cut short. The reason a knife spine is clipped at the point is one of strength. By clipping off
					the point spine, a stronger, more abrupt and larger-angled geometry typically creates a thicker point. Note the photos
					described in the section above, and you can see how the clipped (or slant) point also creates a knife that is 
					easier to sheath, as the point won't hang and snag the sheath welts or parts.
					Alphabet Links
					
- collaborative (collaboration)
- This term describes the knife or art project when more than one person is involved in making it. The 
					parties both have a hand in the works, and all parties should be recognized in the final presentation,
					record, or description of the work. I've only collaborated with a few other makers in my career, and 
					the knives that are the product of a collaboration are clearly identified. This is not the same as farming out
					work (below). In the past, my collaborations have been with James Beauchamp and Rusty Russom, new knife makers 
					in my family and studio who have taken an interest in learning the tradecraft
					and art of knife making. They honored me with their own interest, time, and effort 
					in this field, and I'm pround to have worked with them. 
					Alphabet Links
- combat knife
- In one early (and dated) contemporary book, this term is defined as any knife that is "single or double edged with a blade 5-10
					inches long and a double guard." Okay, this is just wrong. A true combat knife is any knife that is designed and created 
					for actual combat by professionals, military, and law enforcement. What the writer was describing was the old WW2 Ka-bar
					style, which has long ago left the true field of combat for much improved designs, styles, and types. Want to know what 
					real combat knives used by real military and combat professionals look like? I've got the page for you 
					right here. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- commemorative
- There is a long historic tradition of creating knives, swords, and weapons that commemorate events, 
					persons, units, and campaigns. Knives that commemorate these do so with text, graphics, images, and identifying
					features that describe or list those persons or events. The commemoration may be etched, engraved, carved,
					or otherwise permanently marked. See my own 
					commemorative knives on a special page on this site. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- contour
- The contour of the knife is the outline of the figure, shape, or body. 
					The word comes from French and Italian contorno, which means to compass about. This also refers the the artist's
					ability to apply perspective, balance, and proportionateness to the form. A knife handle may be well contoured,
					or it may be abrupt, squarish, or out of balance. Though it would be nice to use the term contour to describe
					the profile alone, profile is a better word, because a form may be contoured from many directions and views. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- convex (grind)
- There are three types of grind: hollow (concave), flat, or convex. The choice of which grind depends on the maker,
					the design, the intended use, and the thickness of the material. In one older, dated text about knifemaking, the 
					convex grind is described as "generally a sign of amateur or 
					homemade work." This is quaint, but way off-base. Though early makers may create knives without hollow or flat grinding 
					because they do not have the equipment, this does not mean that all convex grinds are created by novices. One of the reasons for a 
					convex grind is to create a blade geometry that is stronger and more robust than hollow or flat grinds for knives and tools
					used for chopping or light impact. Another reason to create a convex grind (taper grind) is because the blade stock is far too
					thin to create a hollow grind and yet have the blade retain any blade strength. This is typically seen on blade stock that is 
					less than 1/16 (.0625") thick. If a hollow grind or flat grind is attempted in these thin blades, the cutting edge would be too
					thin, with the geometry of a straight razor, not a knife. A blade this thin would easily bend or fracture; a razor is not a 
					working knife, and this is where a convex (or taper grind) is applicable.
					Alphabet Links
					
- counterterrorism (knives)
- This is, unfortunately, a new and important term in our field. I write
					unfortunately because it would be great if we lived in a 
					world where terrorism didn't exist. But it does, and that means that there are highly trained and effective teams, units, and members
					of military and law enforcement organizations that have critical needs for their counterterrorism field. Whether it's CT, counter-terror, or 
					counterterrorism: what makes a knife a true
					counterterrorism knife? That's easy: if it was designed by the direct input of those critical and professional forces, and made for them,
					in the way they require, and in use in their hands: that's a true counterterrorism knife. I'm proud to make these knives and you can 
					learn more about them on my Counterterrorism Knives page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- CQC, CQB Knives
- Acronyms for Close Quarters Combat and Close 
					Quarters Battle. These terms are reserved for serious combat knives, 
					usually made for and used by the military for killing or disabling 
					the enemy. Though many manufacturers claim their knives are 
					"tactical" or "combat duty," you might question why a serviceman in 
					combat would carry a cheap piece of manufactured junk into battle... 
					see my Military Combat 
					Knives page for detailed discussion of this topic. 
					CQC and CQB knives are durable knives designed to slash, pierce, and cut, with overbuilt 
					strong blades, heavy duty fittings, and extremely stout sheaths and materials. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- crampet, crampette
- A Middle Dutch word, this is sometimes another term for a chape (above). 
					In this case, it means to restrain or constrict, by metal, 
					referring, I believe, to the function of the metal chape parts to 
					constrain the wood or leather of the sheath or scabbard and protect 
					it from splitting or damage. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- critical (temperature)
- In knife blades and heat treating, this is the temperature at 
					which phase transformation takes place, the temperature when 
					austenite is formed from the base allotrope. Also known as the 
					austenitizing temperature. These temperatures vary depending on the 
					steel alloy. In the old days, all the temperatures of transformation 
					were called "critical." 
					Alphabet Links
					
- crossguard
- Please see guard below. 
					Alphabet Links
				
- cryogenic
- Simply means: of or relating to extremely low temperatures. 
					Cryogenic references do not have a specific temperature, no matter 
					what you may read on open source definition guides and 
					encyclopedias. Each science and realm of cryogenics is different, 
					but in knife blade discussion, it means colder than sub-zero 
					treatment of blades to impart higher wear resistance, toughness, and 
					corrosion resistance. Further specification must be made, 
					such as shallow cryogenics or deep cryogenics, or specifying the 
					temperature to clarify the context of the idea, range, or 
					discussion. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- cryptocrystalline
- This is a rock term, describing the physical form of a mineral. It also means microscopically crystalline, and is typical of agates
					and jaspers, some of the harder players in my gemstone knife handles. These are forms of chalcedony, which is 
					elementally silicon dioxide.
					While agates and jaspers are a form of quartz, not all quartz is jasper or agate, since not all quartz has the cryptocrystalline structure.
					This structure makes these gemstones very hard, durable, and dense (with a specific gravity of 2.65), and therefore they take a very glassy
					vitreous polish that can only be abraded by extremely hard materials. Thus, they are the longest lasting gemstone handles I make, apart from
					handles that contain harder materials like ruby (corundum). They will, quite literally, last for thousands of years in their carved and polished
					form. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- crystal, crystalline
- In this context, a body that is formed by 
					the solidification of the combination of steel alloy elements 
					that has a regularly repeating internal arrangement of its atoms and 
					molecules with strictly defined and 
					identifiable external plane faces. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- CSAR Knives
- Acronym for Combat Search And Rescue knives. 
					These knives are designed with not only combat applications built in 
					(See CQC, CQB above), but also with additional rescue features, like thicker, 
					heavier points for scraping, digging, and carving. They also may 
					have heavier, thicker grinds for light chopping and shelter 
					building, and serrations or rip teeth for sawing. Like the CQC 
					knives above, they very tough, stout, and durably designed for rough duty 
					and lifesaving work. It is one thing for a maker or manufacturer to 
					designate a knife for CSAR use, and quite another to have the professional input of CSAR professionals
					in the design and application of the knives, and to have them carry 
					the knives in operations daily. See some my best
					CSAR knives 
					made for USAF Pararescue, our nation's top military rescue service. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- custom
- It seems like no other word is so misunderstood in knifemaking! Custom is a simple word, meaning made to or done to order. 
					A custom knife is a knife ordered, and made to order. It's really very simple, but to see all of the confusion this one 
					little word has created, please take a look at a detailed page about custom knives 
					at this link.
					Alphabet Links
					
- cutting edge, edge face 
- It is best to use the words cutting and edge together. If you use the word edge alone, it 
					could refer to the edge of the bolster, the edge of the handle 
					scales, or the edge of the filework on the spine. It might refer to 
					the edge a maker has over his contemporaries. More distinctive and definitive is the cutting edge face (or 
					primary face), which is established after creating the edge relief face (secondary face). The cutting edge 
					is the working part of the knife, the very thing that makes it a 
					knife. There are many ways to create the cutting edge, but the cross 
					sectional geometry is the most important aspect, and I go into great 
					detail on my Blades Page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- D
- Damascus (steel)
- There are generally two types of steel called Damascus. 
				One is ancient ultra high carbon crucible steel that is no longer made and is lost 
				to history: often either watered steel 
				or Wootz steel. The other, more common use of the term refers to 
				modern pattern welded steel billets formed into knife blades. Usually made of two different alloys
					of steel, this is done for the sake of appearance only, since the performance of blades made this way is considerably less than that of 
					modern, isotropic, uniform, homogeneous tool steels. Learn more about Damascus steels, history, advantages and limitations 
				on this link on
					my Blades page. 
					Alphabet Links
				
- decalescence
- The property of absorbing heat energy without increasing temperature while phasic change is underway 
					in steel. Technically, a decrease in temperature when compared to 
					ambient thermal loading. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- decarburization
- A very bad thing; knife blade steels are overheated, or heated 
					too long, or heated in an oxygen-rich environment, and the carbon 
					migrates to the surface of the steel, bonding with the free oxygen 
					to form scale. The scale is ground off, and the knife owner does not
					even know that the steel has been rendered to a less than optimum 
					alloy by carbon loss. Carbon is the most important alloy in all 
					steels, so this is no small error. Read about the horrors of 
					decarburization by an established and experienced knifemaker
					
					at this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- designs (knife patterns)
- I included this term because so many organic searches for "knife designs" on the internet bring people to this website. The word 
					design actually comes from the Latin designaire, which means to mark out or sign. So there is obviously personalization around
					signing your work, or individualizing it. Our definition's roots are: a plan, formed in the mind, of something to be done or 
					produced. This covers a lot of ground, including a website design, working design, a financial design, and a business design. But 
					these are not the way the term is typically used that brings people here; it is the 
					pattern of the knife, which is different from the design!
					A design is the entire idea, and a pattern is well... a pattern. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- detent, detent ball
- That which catches or locks a movement. In 
					some folding knives, a small hole (detent) is placed in the blade to 
					help a small detent ball (usually hardened and wear-resistant) find 
					it's resting place. As the blade is closed, the spring-supported 
					ball falls into the detent, pulling and holding the blade closed. 
					Though this is a widespread application, there are others in use for 
					knives, mechanisms, sheaths, and knife apparatus. Hey, now I know 
					where detention came from! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- dickering, to dicker
- In this field, the word is mostly used the same as the words bargain, bargaining, haggling, and bartering . It means reaching an agreement, typically by 
					a series of offers, counter offers, and counter counter offers; you get it. This is not the way fine handmade knives are commissioned or sold. This
					type of process is defined in many dictionaries as applied 
					toward petty items, and a fine handmade knife that sells for thousands of dollars is
					not a petty item. More about this as it applies to my own work
					at this link on my FAQ page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- digital camouflage, digi-camo
- Evolving from the early form of the pixilated, blocky MARPAT pattern (below) every branch of the military
					and many other military units of other countries as well as civilian suppliers of textiles, clothing, and gear now 
					offer variations of the digital camouflage print pattern. There are a bewildering amount of these patterns and 
					styles available, and some branches and even units are insisting on their own exclusive rights to certain patterns,
					much like the original MARPAT. Frequently, I get asked to supply specific patterns in my kydex sheaths and textile
					gear, and I do my best to accommodate them, but these patterns are best offered in a generalized form, since no 
					exact and specific matches are licensed, regulated, and verified by kydex and textile manufacturers. Most of
					these supply companies can offer a version that fits with a uniform, but not one supplier I've found can match
					the patterns exactly. While it can be important that a camouflage pattern work with a combat uniform, because of 
					the size of the knife sheath and accessories, matching the pattern exactly is not usually necessary, since most of
					the other equipment (like firearms, rifles, and other weapons) are basic black and do not match the specific camo pattern
					either.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- dirk
- This is a word of uncertain origin, and was formerly durk or dork. Hmmm. The word compares to the Low German words dulk and dolk
					and the German word dolch. There are two dirks in history: the Scottish Highland dagger or the kind of short sword or dagger used by junior British Naval 
					Officers. The word dirk does not describe a dagger; a dagger is symmetrical and has two, three, or four edges and always has a point. 
					A dirk is accepted as a variant type of knife, a weapon (vs. a tool), with an evenly tapered blade sharpened on one edge. However, in historical texts its easy to
					find dirks that are sharpened on both edges, as many of these were made from broken and repurposed sword blades. By the late 
					1700s, the name was loosely applied to all short bladed side arms carried by naval officers. So the name had concise meaning at one time,
					but then evolved to describe additional types of knives, short swords, and weapons. The original Scottish dirks were an all-purpose knife used
					for meals and battle. The naval dirks varied greatly through the 17th and 18th centuries, and some were curved, some straight, some large, others smaller.
					Often, naval dirks were highly decorated with cast fittings in silver and brass, ivory handles, and gilded ornamentation and etching. The naval dirk evolved
					from straight to curved and highly ornamented, back to straight, becoming plain and non-descript, and eventually becoming an ornament that 
					had little or no use in the navy. Eventually, the naval dirk simply disappeared. There is no record of dirks being used in 
					any notable naval combat. Nowadays, the term dirk
					is sometimes used in slang referring to some types of straight-bladed bowies, but this is not valid. If you are tempted to call a knife a dirk, it's best 
					to specify Scottish Highland dirk or Naval dirk.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- disk (or disc?)
- In knifemaking, this refers to the disk grinder. This is a flat, round plate that has an abrasive surface, usually sheet abrasive applied by adhesion,
					that spins. The knife part, component, blade, or piece is held against the spinning disk and made very flat. The word "disc" is sometimes used, but it's not
					really the right word. Old dictionaries define disc as being used in botany and biology, and modern texts use disc to mean an optical disc (CD, DVD). 
					Though the belt grinder gets all of the attention
					and glory in the knife shop, the disk grinder is just as important and used just as often, perhaps more so, to flatten, grind, sand, and finish metals, horn,
					wood, bone, and other materials. By the way, the disk grinder can not be used to grind stone, that machine is called a "lap" and that is the basis for the
					word "lapidary." More about lapidary on my 
					Gemstone Knife Handles page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- distal
- This term literally means "remote from the point of attachment." So you might see guys describing their
					knives as having a "distal taper." This would mean that the blade is tapered thinner along
					its length toward the point, or it could mean that the blade tang is tapered thinner at the butt.
					This type of terminology is not standard in the knife field, and is an attempt
					to link knives to the human body, which is what these terms are designed for. A knife is not a human form, so 
					though sometimes used (even by me!) the term must be further clarified. It's one thing to say an injury is distal
					to the femur on the tibia, and proximal to the talocural joint, but this is jargon best left to the Emergency
					Room physician, not the knife maker. When you simply state, "distal taper of the blade," this does not define where
					the attachment point is. In other words, a tapered tang could be described as a distal taper as well, since it
					is distal to the union of the blade and tang at the bolster... and how is it that the central origin of the blade is 
					at the blade to bolster junction when there is quite literally no articulating union or joint there in a full tang or hidden tang
					knife, only on a folding knife? This all becomes very confusing. The better and clearer statement would be claiming
					that the blade thickness is tapered towards the point. That is pretty easy to understand, and it doesn't sound like you're
					trying to talk over someone's head. It's a knife, not a complex body of tissues, organs, muscles, and skin in motion. My gosh,
					do we have to get into sagittal, transverse, medial, and caudad locations on the knife too? I can't just 
					photograph the obverse side of the knife, I have to photograph it supine, in the anteroposterior
					position, with my camera at an inferolateral direction! Yeah, I was an Emergency Medical Technician once, too, 
					but I know what field the terms belong in. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- dividing line
- Also called the yokote (below), this term describes the line between the point grind and the main blade grind in tanto-ground knife
					blades. Since this area is often the meeting of two different geometries, a line may be present. This line is more predominant
					the larger the difference in the angle of the profile. So, if a knife blade has a fairly straight tanto point, the line will be less
					pronounced, if it has a more angled or square point, the line will be more pronounced. Often, the entire line is not visible particularly
					near the cutting edge, as blending and uniformity of the blade geometry brings these two grinds together. What is important to remember in 
					this type of blade grind is that at the apex of the dividing line, a secondary point is created. In knives (and lesser in swords) this secondary
					point has distinctive purpose; it creates a very strong, well-supported point that will support bearing down with the heel of the 
					hand on the spine of the knife, for cutting stubborn textiles and materials. Doing this with the tip would be difficult due to the
					angle. Most authors and authorities on this type of blade omit or ignore this important and distinct advantage to the tanto geometry. 				
					Alphabet Links
					
- divot
- This is not a knife term! Technically, this is a malapropism, 
					the incorrect usage of a word by substituting a similar-sounding 
					word with different meaning. Some guys confuse 
					this with the word detent (above). A divot is a small chunk of 
					turf used to cover a cottage roof in Scotland, or burned there in the 
					fireplace to keep warm. For you golfers, it's what you carve out of 
					the grounds. I guess in that way it's similar to the detent hole... 
					but maybe the guys using this term have spent way too much time on 
					the links. I've even seen this term used to describe a finger groove, where a finger may rest 
					on either the handle or the spine of the knife. So they call it a "finger divot." So this is 
					the small chunk of turf about the size of a finger, right? Hey, if it's a finger groove, it's a 
					finger groove, and calling it a divot won't make it sound better...sigh. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- double bevel cutting edge
- Please see the single bevel cutting edge described below. The double bevel (or double face) cutting 
					edge is established by first relieving the metal to establish an apex of faces at the cutting edge on a 
					sharpening stone or device, followed by careful honing of the cutting edge by lifting the spine on the 
					stone or increasing the angle slightly. See face, edge below. This type of edge is easy to maintain in the field, as very little 
					metal is removed at the cutting edge face. When the angle becomes too great to yield a sharp edge, the 
					knife must be relieved again to properly thin the metal behind the cutting edge. This is the system I 
					recommend for clients, even though my later knives are furnished with a sharper single bevel cutting edge 
					(below). The single bevel cutting edge requires higher skill and control to maintain in the field.
					 Alphabet Links
					 
- dovetail (bolster and handle)
- Refers to the angled cut of the bolster that 
					is mounted against the handle scale in full tang knives. I believe 
					that nearly all bolsters should be dovetailed, as this forms a 
					stable, geometric lock of the handle material against the tang. The 
					handle material must be accurately matched to the bolster dovetails 
					for a seamless fit. Sometimes, with some geometric arrangements of 
					fittings and handles, the ninety-degree squared-off angle of 
					fittings to handles can not be avoided, but it is not as strong 
					and durable as the dovetailed arrangement. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- drop (dropped) point
- This term refers to a knife blade point where the point is lower than the spine, that is 
				dropped (lowered) from 
					the generally straight line of the spine. This is very similar to a clip (or clipped) point where the point 
					geometry is strengthened by shaping the point to make it lower than the spine, thus making it thicker. This also
					makes the knife easier to sheath, as the point will not hang up, snag, or cut into the sheath welts or sides. The 
					difference between a clip point and a drop point is more about the shape of the area that is cut away: a clip point
					is generally thought of as being straight or concave in profile, a drop point is considered rounded and convex in 
					profile. While most drop points were considered useful for hunting knives in the latter part of the 20th century,
					history shows that this geometry is extremely old in many types of knives and weapons. Descriptions and illustrations
					of drop points are above.
					Alphabet Links
					
- durometer
- This is a hardness measurement, as well as a hardness measuring tool called the durometer, created by Albert Shore in the 1920s. The tool is used and the durometer rating
					details the specific hardness of certain materials: elastomers, 
					neoprene, rubbers, and polymers. For the knife maker, this measurement 
					is an important consideration for the contact wheels that reside on his belt grinder, the most used tool in the knife shop. Hard contact wheels
					have high durometer ratings, and are as hard as hydraulic 
					O-rings (which are very hard, due to the high pressures they are exposed to and
					their high compression rates). Some contact wheels used in special operations have a lower durometer rating, like that of door 
					weather stripping
					or an automobile tire. For the knife client, plastics, epoxies, thermosets, composites, and phenolics hardness is an important consideration. What's important
					to know is that phenolics are the hardest materials, actually topping the scale over all other plastics like rubber, neoprene, 
					Teflon, and nylon. Note that 
					phenolics and G10 composites are much harder than a golf ball, and much harder than any bone! Hardness means durability in this field, and since I'm
					dedicated to making the very best knives, this is another reason I don't use much horn, bone, or similar materials. Please think about the hardness
					and durability of your own knife's handle now. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- E
- E & E
- This means Evasion and Escape. Many military units carry E & E bags, a less frequently accessed kit that will allow them to survive
					behind enemy lines. Some of my 
					accessory components may be carried in the E 
					& E kit to allow change of wear, mounting, carry, and service
					of the tactical knife in the field. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- EDC
- Acronym for Every Day Carry, a knife that is 
					carried and used daily. I like to call this a working knife. Usually 
					a less expensive model, as the client and knife user knows it will 
					be used up, perhaps abused, misused, scratched, scarred, and 
					eventually discarded. You might be surprised to find out the value, 
					workmanship, and materials now used on working (EDC) knives. Knife 
					users are more refined these days, and prefer a fine tool and 
					instrument at their side. See my 
					Working 
					Knives. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- edge
- I don't know how this word could be so misunderstood, complexified, bloviated, and made confusing by a flurry of 
					advertising hype, confusing knife makers and owners alike. It's just the cutting edge of the blade, the part that you shouldn't be
					touching unless you want to see blood. It comes from the Latin word "acer" meaning... are you ready for this? Wait for it...
					--from the Latin word "acer" meaning sharp. The 
					unbelievable cognates of this root are astounding in ALL cultures
					and I believe that this is because of the universal need and use of knives throughout history. No, I'm not defining 
					cognates; look
					that one up yourself. The definition: "the thin cutting side of the blade of an instrument (knife)." Even in the definition, 
					they knew that there was a cutting side, that the edge did not disappear to nothingness, it has a thickness or a side, even 
					if it is microscopic. Think about it. Don't you just love words and ideas? 
					Alphabet Links
					
- equilibrium
- In this context, equilibrium means with all physical structure 
					at rest, in balance, and with changes slow and static, with no 
					dynamic forces. In steel, the phasic changes occur slowly with the 
					physical form at rest, and this is not what knifemakers do, unless 
					we are after full annealing of steels! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- ergonomic
- This word is just about useless to describe anything these days. This is because ergonomics is simply an 
					advertising buzzword. There are no accepted and detailed standards for what describes ergonomics, though the word is supposed to mean 
					the study and application of workplace design to minimize fatigue and injury. So, naturally, knife advertisers add the 
					word to their description list to make you think that a knife handle is more than just a handle, it's ergonomic. Really?
					What knife maker or manufacturer would claim that his knife handle is not made to reduce fatigue and prevent injury? In 
					today's world of political correctness and buzzwords, file this one with ecofriendly, empowerment, mobile, and green. 
				 	Alphabet Links
				 	
- escutcheon
- This is from the Latin word for 
					shield. It may be lozenge, diamond, or shield-shaped, where bearings 
					are depicted, marshaled, or displayed. In modern knives, it's a 
					small plate, usually of metal, embedded and/or mounted to the 
					handle, where engraving, etching, or marks of the owner, maker, 
					event, or campaign may be detailed. Due to the size of knife 
					handles, this is usually a very small plate, suited to very limited 
					graphics or text. An escutcheon may also be mounted on a sheath, but 
					on my knives I call it a Flash Plate, as it is ordinarily used to 
					flash military affiliations or connections. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- eutectoid
- In steels this refers to alloys that have 0.77% of carbon. Upon cooling, there is no proeutectoid cementite, or proeutectoid ferrite is formed.
					Eutectoid is the point at which hypereutectoid and hypoeutectoid steels differ. 
					More details on my 
					Heat Treating and 
					Cryogenic Processing of Knife Blade Steels at this link.  
				Alphabet Links 
- F
- face, edge
- The word face originates from Vulgar Latin and Old French facia, and used in these definitions describes
					the principal surface. The edge face is used in the definitive Razor Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranitch to 
					describe the multi-angled bevels ground along the edge of a knife that create the geometry 
					that makes a dull knife blade a sharp one. There are primary faces, secondary faces, relief 
					faces, and edge faces. To coin them simply the edge would be good enough for a 
					general description, but the term face clearly defines that they are distinct entities.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- face, sheath
- The sheath face is the front of the knife sheath, the part that traditionally 
					faces outward when worn on the body. The sheath face can be a special area for 
					embellishment, carving, inlays, or personalization. On my combat and tactical 
					knife sheaths this is often a place for unit affiliation, campaigns, and service
					data, which is engraved on the flashplate. Though the sheath face is the most
					often seen and photographed, the sheath back is just as important. More details
					on my Sheaths page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- facet, faceting
- Meaning literally little face, a faceted gemstone is a gem that has a number of flat faces cut on the surface, and in gemstones,
					these are a good thing, something to plan and execute well, bringing the facet faces to a bright polish.
					On a knife, faceting is a bad thing. The term is used to describe what happens if the grind is not 
					consistently placed, and more than one grind plane or curve can be seen, exhibiting several clearly defined
					planes or surfaces. Not only the blades can be faceted, but also the handle contours and radiuses can show signs of numerous flat faces, caused by 
					insufficient movement or placement of the cutting device, machine, or abrasive. See related term tool 
					marks below.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- false edge
- Refers to a grind geometry usually on the spine of the knife near the tip. 
					It's not really a good 
					descriptive term; I prefer to use the term swage (see below). The 
					reason is that in most well-made modern custom knives, an edge is 
					actually formed at the swage, one that will cut, even though the 
					geometry is thick. The reason for the swage is most often to reduce 
					the point thickness and cross-sectional geometry without removing 
					too much material that would weaken the spine. This is usually done 
					in tactical and combat knives to reduce the combination of point 
					angles for greater penetration force on a smaller surface area at 
					the point. So, false edge becomes a misnomer, since 
					there actually is a cutting edge, chisel-shaped but often sharp! By 
					the way, the first idea every boy has when he receives his first 
					knife with a false edge or swage is to sharpen it! I did; did 
					you? See plenty of swages on hundreds of tactical, military, combat, and 
					rescue professional knives through my
					Tactical, 
					Military, and Combat Knife Portal. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- fantasy knife
- Though this term has fallen out of popular 
					use since the 1990s, I think it's a good term. Usually refers to a 
					knife that is a total artistic concept, and is not a useful tool due 
					to geometry, materials, shape, or ability to be carried. Fantasy 
					knives are purchased for investment value and collection only; you 
					wouldn't use one to skin an elk or carry into combat. Some of 
					the finest and most valuable knives ever made are fantasy knives; 
					you can see some of mine on my
					Museum knives 
					page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- farm(ed) out
- Farming out work is a phrasal verb, meaning to send (work, for example) from a central point 
					to be done elsewhere. This is actually the root of the word farm, which is a very old Middle English word 
					ferme meaning to rent, lease, or make a contract to fix (not some place to raise crops and livestock;
					that noun is the result of farming out or leasing land for cultivation). So when knife work is farmed out,
					it is done by outside entities, sometimes in other countries, and sometimes by unskilled labor with
					non-verifiable materials and process, usually leading to an inferior piece. This is typical of large 
					knife manufacturing firms, and even some makers. This is usually done for several reasons, and 
					I'll detail these in my book. Farming out is much different from a collaboration, which is the 
					dedicated and identified work of two makers 
					who share makers' marks on the blade.  
				 	Alphabet Links
				 	
- ferrite (Alpha-ferrite)
- The origin of this word is the Latin word ferrum, which is iron. The generalization is that ferrite is pure iron, but this is not the case, as
					ferrite is composed of several different crystalline lattice structures, and all ferrite contains carbon along with 
					iron atoms. Ferrite is iron with a body-centered cubic crystalline lattice form, 
					magnetic, soft, a major constituent of mild steel. More about 
					ferrite 
					at this bookmark. Alpha-ferrite has a body-centered crystalline structure.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- ferrule
- A small cap or ring, usually of metal, that 
					covers the termination of a knife handle or component that protects 
					the edges, strengthens the arrangement, and prevents splitting 
					of the material it covers. The 
					word comes from Latin (ferrum) which means iron, and 
					viriola which means little bracelet. Ferrules are seen typically 
					on hidden tang knives, where large turned or rounded handles are 
					protected on both ends. They can be simple or quite elaborate, 
					featuring hand-engraving, precious metal inlay, or gemstone mounts. I use them also to help 
					bed the handle materials and to help distribute the forces of a 
					tightly threaded pommel mount on a hidden tang knife. A good example 
					are the ferrules tipped 
					with sterling silver gallery wire at both
					ends of this sodalite gemstone handle of my Ariel dagger. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- fighting knife (fighter)
- This is a negative term that is best avoided 
					altogether. This term was popular in the 1980s, but has fallen out 
					of favor with most knife aficionados and professionals because of 
					the negative connotations. Unfortunately, the hobby knives crowd and internet knife dealers try their best to keep this term alive, though 
					the knives they describe this way are not made for fighting, but mostly for display, since they have 
					fragile, narrow points and are commonly made of damascus (an inherently weak pattern welded steel) with hidden tangs (inherently inferior to full 
					tang construction) and horn, bone, antler, or ivory handles (more weak material). It seems that they are stuck in a time when real men of the 
					south (circa 1800) settled their differences in the mud underneath the Spanish moss-covered live oaks on the plantation grounds with their 
					big knives and lots of puffy sleeves and bravado. Real
					knives used as physical weapons in current times are 
					combat knives, or more specialized 
					counterterrorism knives, both very sophisticated and evolved weapons sets, including specialized
					gear for wearing, mounting, and interfacing with actual combat missions. Using the term "fighter" shows a limited understanding of our 
					tradecraft and art, typical of hobbyist discussion, but the more important thing is that prosecutors love this type of term when knives make their way to 
					court systems. Though there are tactical knives and combat knives 
					that are made for military duty, it's foolish and irresponsible to 
					label a knife for fighting. When was the last time you saw a 
					professional knife bout in Madison Square Garden or in the Meadowlands New Jersey Sports Complex? Factories also use 
					terms like this to appeal to the macho wannabes in order to sell 
					knives, but it does a great disservice to our profession. Defensive tactical, counterterrorism, and combat 
					knives? Sure. Fighters? No. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- filework
- This is a new term, (technically, a neologism: a compound noun 
					of file and work) and you won't 
					find it in any standard dictionary. It refers to the file cuts on 
					the spine of a knife, frequently extending completely around the 
					tang of a full tang knife. Its purpose was probably first to improve 
					grip security and stop a thumb or finger from slipping on a slick, 
					smooth blade spine, but it has evolved into a decorative art form. 
					Good filework can not be imitated by machines (see jimping below), 
					and is a definite indicator of a fine custom or handmade knife. Read 
					more about filework on my
					Embellishment page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- finger groove
- Depressions created in the knife handle to 
					accommodate fingers. They may be deep, shallow, or canted, and may 
					comprise handle materials, bolsters, or guards as part of their 
					geometry. Finger grooves should be well-rounded for comfort, with no 
					roughness that would cause abrasion or fatigue from use. Care must be used 
					when considering finger grooves in a knife handle, as this limits the 
					grip positions of the hand. Multiple finger grooves can be tricky to put 
					on a knife, because of the great variation of hand sizes in humans. See my
					Knife Grip 
					Tactics page for hand sizing information. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- finial
- This word is from the Latin root finis, meaning "the end." In knives, it refers to any decorated, formed, distinctive
					or separate artistic or functional component at the end of a guard, butt, sheath chape, or knife stand, case, or display fitting.
					Finials were typical in renaissance period pieces, complimenting the ornamentation of the 
					knife hilt and fittings overall. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- firesteel
- This is a neologism, a new word using several words but describing a unique object. A firesteel is a specially made extremely high 
					carbon steel that when scraped or abraded, releases a shower of sparks that can ignite tinder and start a fire. This effect is based on 
					pyrophoricity, a spontaneous ignition of material when exposed to air. Scraping the firesteel with a harder material (usually stone or 
					the edge of a hardened knife blade) yields small particles that instantly ignite, creating sparks. I build a special firesteel/magnesium block
					safety cage and mount assembly that allows the knife user to mount, carry and use the item with relative safety and control for survival
					and fire-starting situations. More about that gear at 
					this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- fishtail
- This term describes the shape of a knife handle. The handle is widest at the outer end or butt, with a narrow
					area or girdle typically located where the small finger rests in a forward knife grip position. If a fishtail
					is properly made and located, the meaty, thick heel of the inside of the hand will rest inside the fishtail, 
					increasing grip security. The fishtail can also add some weight to the butt of the knife handle, helping balance 
					a heavy blade. On some knives, it offers an additional area for embellishment like engraving. 
					Here's a dagger with a 
					fishtail rear bolster as example. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- fixed-blade knife
- Refers to knives that are solid between the 
					handle and blade, in other words: not folding knives. Fixed-blade 
					knives are the strongest type of knife at the blade-handle union. 
					I recommend only fixed blade knives for combat and tactical use.
					Read why. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- flashplate
- This is not a radiometric assay plate for cellular studies, nor is it the process of chemically elecrolessly
					plating of  small amounts and thicknesses of metals to aid in subsequent electroplating. This is the 
					machine-engraved or custom etched plate that I include on many of my military, commemorative, and tactical combat knife
					sheaths to designate service units, dates, campaigns, or affiliations. It can 
					be anything from an official military emblem to a web site graphic 
					and URL. The plate is always removable, as they are usually not worn in combat but designed to 
					be applied to the knife sheath for initial presentation and display after retirement of the knife. Many 
					examples reside on my 
					Military 
					Tactical Knives page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- flat (blade flat)
- The flat of the main part of the blade, comprising the ricasso, 
					the spine, and any areas along the blade left at the full, original 
					thickness. In most fine knives, the flats are well and accurately 
					finished, bringing out the character of the grain in the steels. 
					The flats can offer a nice area to engrave and embellish the blade. 
					It is difficult to match the flats on both sides of the blade with 
					each other, and well-matched flats are a sign of fine custom work. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- flat (grind)
- Simple enough, the grind of a knife blade that creates an edge, ground with a device or tool that creates a fairly 
					flat surface. This can be done with a flat platen on a belt grinder, a flat abrasive disc, or by hand. They are common in many 
					factory knives because they can be accomplished by automated and CNC equipment. Flat grinds are only beneficial 
					on very thin or small knives, or special shaped knives. The problem with flat grinds on most blades is that after two or three sharpenings, the 
					knife blade is much thicker, necessitating re-grinding the blade to yield a blade thin enough for the low angles required for 
					a useful and significantly sharp cutting edge. More details about grind comparisons on my "Blades" page at this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- folded (sheath)
- This describes a knife sheath construction method where the sheath's leather 
					body is folded over to create both the sheath front and back in one piece of leather.
					The sheath is then stitched, riveted, or laced where the folds meet, usually at the 
					welt that runs along the cutting edge. There are limitations to this type of sheath 
					construction; it uses large pieces of leather, so is costly, and has a weakness at
					the fold which must be grooved to be folded. The fold only offers single thickness
					leather, so is more susceptible to cutting by the knife blade, and must always be 
					in the design of a straight line, limiting sculpting or creativity in the knife 
					sheath design. See layered sheath below and more on my
					Sheaths page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- folding knife (folder)
- This is a knife that is made so the blade pivots or folds into the handle. In the old days this type
					of knife was called a pocket knife, because it was made to be carried in the pocket. See 
					pocket knife below.
					Folding knives have evolved into distinct kinds and types, just like fixed blade knives. I predominantly make
					liner lock folding knives, because they have the strongest locking mechanism and design currently available with
					many design possibilities. My folding knives are frequently highly embellished with exotic metals, hand-engraving,
					and rare and premium materials. Folding knives have their own place in collections, and many become works of sculptural
					knife art. What a folding knife is distinctly not is tactical or for combat, no matter what you may read. Why? 
					Take a look at this link 
					on my Tactical Combat and Professional Military Knives page and it's all very clear. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- Food Contact Safety
- This is a rarely considered requirement of knives used in the preparation of food in the kitchen, in restaurants, 
					and in the food service industry. There are very specific standards for food contact safety, established by the USDA, the FDA,
					ANSI, AISI, CDC, and other official organizations. Much of food safety has been ignored in kitchen knives, and this page
					details these requirements. Protect the ones you care about by practicing food safety!
					Alphabet Links
					
- footprint
- Everything has a footprint these days, and knives are no different, though you'll seldom
					see a knife held by a foot! This term refers to the space occupied by the knife or the knife
					and sheath. Particularly important with tactical and combat knives, the footprint of the knife 
					with the sheath must be accommodated on the gear, with additional room for the hand to allow the knife
					to be pulled or from the sheath. A large knife, then can have a hefty footprint, and the sheath body 
					which is always wider than the knife blade adds to that. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- fossilized
- A descriptive term that is often used incorrectly by modern 
					knife makers, collectors, and the public. You'll see mastodon or 
					mammoth ivory called fossilized when it is not a true fossil, but 
					merely mineralized ivory. Real fossils are stone, rock, groups of 
					minerals that have replaced living biological forms over 
					millions of years. Real fossils can not be cut with a band saw, sanded on a 
					belt grinder, or finished with dry sandpaper and a buffer 
					because they are rock. What 
					some makers and dealers are calling fossilized is actually mineralized tusk, horns, 
					and bone. When you see the word fossil on this web site, I'm 
					referring to actual fossils, living forms that have been replaced by 
					stone millions of years ago. See mineralized below. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- frog
- A very interesting word in this realm. It is the loop, as attached to the belt, to accept 
					the scabbard of a sword or dagger. For visualization, you could call 
					the metal ring mounted to your work belt that you slip your battery 
					powered drill/driver into a frog... same thing. The word may have come from 
					the Portuguese word froco which is a loop of fabric or ornamental braiding sewn
					on a coat or dress. Hey, maybe it comes from the 
					acronym for Finished Room Over Garage. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- fuller
- The fuller is a groove that runs along the axis of a knife spine, usually used on double-edged
					knives but not limited to daggers and swords. Also called a cannelure it allows a reduced 
					central spine weight in the thickest area of the spine without sacrificing strength. In essence, 
					it forms an "I" beam along the center of the blade, and limits lateral flexion. It is not a 
					blood groove (above). The term blood groove is an American 
					colloquialism and means nothing. We've all heard that the groove is made 
					to allow blood to flow in a deep cut, but this is simply an uneducated 
					attempt at describing the fuller. The fuller gets its name from the special 
					hammer and anvil tool set (a fuller) used by a blacksmith to produce the 
					groove that spreads the hot iron into the shape of a channel. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- full tang
- When the tang of a knife is full, you can see 
					the edge of the entire tang all along the handle. You can see a full 
					tang knife in the photo above of The Spine 
					Profile. Typically, a full tang has bolsters and handle scales, 
					rather than a guard and pommel like a hidden tang (below). A full 
					tang is a solid piece of steel from tip to butt, and is the 
					strongest blade/handle arrangement. Handmade and finely made custom knives 
					have a fully tapered tang (below). 
					Alphabet Links
					
- furnace
- A chamber used to heat things. In our modern industrial usage, a furnace is typically thought of and clarified as different from an oven,
					and the delineation is 1000°F. If the chamber heats more than 1000°F, it's a furnace, if it's below 1000°F, it's an oven. In AISI, 
					SAE, and ASM standards, when heat treating is referred to, it's done in a 
					furnace, not an oven. So if you are trying to use the correct terminology
					by modern authorities, heat treating is done in a furnace, not a kiln or oven. 
					Alphabet Links 
- G
- garage maker
- This is not a contractor who makes or installs motor vehicle garages. This is modern slang for a beginning 
					knife maker, who works in his garage. I was a garage maker once; many 
					successful knife makers start out in their
					garage. When the level of involvement increases, the knife maker usually outgrows the garage and builds or creates
					a bona fide shop. More about makers on my special page about 
					modern knife making technology.
					Alphabet Links
					
- glue and stick (jewels)
- "Glue and Stick" is a jewelry term to describe the instant mounting of faceted and cut and polished
					gemstones on any item, including knives. The cut and polished gemstone (diamond, ruby, emerald or other 
					commonly accessible gemstone) is pre-mounted in a bezel that often has a single stud protruding beneath it. 
					The craftsman simply drills a hole, puts a drop of glue on the stud, and sticks it in the hole. Voila!
					Instant jewelry. While this may have some applications, this is far different from creating individual bezels
					and mounts which are part of the design, and individually mounting the gems as a jeweler would.
					Alphabet Links
					
- grind (blade)
- This is what makes a flat bar of tool steel a knife. The grind 
					(sometimes called a bevel) is the most important part of the knife blade, and the hardest 
					feature to execute well, accurately, continuously, and 
					finish properly. All modern knives are ground in some form or 
					fashion, even the forged knives have to be ground to be finished. 
					The grind is simply a way of thinning out the blade to accommodate 
					the cutting edge throughout the life of the knife. The grind may be 
					hollow, flat, tapered, or convex. I go into it in depth on my
					Blades page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- grinder marks
- Not a good thing. These are the scars left on 
					the blade by the grinder abrasives that have not been finished away 
					by successive sanding and finishing. They are the bane of 
					knifemakers, as many hours are required to eliminate them yet 
					preserve the crispness and character of the knife. Probably another 
					reason knives are hand-sanded (hand-rubbed) along their length and 
					left rough, so the grinder marks can not be seen.  Sometimes, on less 
					expensive models, I'll leave the grinder marks as part of the 
					finish, and I call it satin finished. The knife is ground to about 
					320 grit, and left unfinished, for a plain, useful blade finish that 
					the owner is not afraid to scratch. This is not a high value 
					finish. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- grind line
- The line that is seen extending from the 
					ricasso to the spine towards the tip. It is formed by the hollow or 
					flat grind junction with the flat of the knife. The grind line is a 
					very important feature and indicator of a knife's geometry, form, 
					finish, and appeal. It should be crisp, clean, and not washed over 
					with too much buffing. The grind lines should be symmetrical on both 
					sides of the knife, and can be examined for symmetry by looking 
					right down the point with both eyes, each trained to one side of the 
					blade. Many makers and all factories have trouble with grind lines, 
					particularly if the blade is well-finished. I go into this in more 
					detail in my book, but it is one of the reasons most makers do not 
					finish a blade, merely settling for sanding it along its length. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- grind termination
- This is the termination 
					of the grind at the ricasso. A tough area to properly grind and 
					finish a knife, and makers and manufacturers have a lot of problems 
					here. This is an extremely important physical part of any knife! A knife is 
					physically stronger if the grind termination is gentle, rounded, and 
					sweeping rather than abrupt, sharp, and with a definite corner. If 
					left abrupt, the knife will fracture at this point when the blade is 
					in a lateral bind with the handle. Consider that the grind is on 
					both sides, so if it is abrupt, it doubles the amount of steel 
					removed, and can create considerable thinness at that point. Not 
					good. That very spot is where the blade will break away from the 
					handle under severe stress. See plunge below. Some guys call this a 
					shoulder cut but it's 
					best not to use that term. A shoulder is the clearly defined flat 
					where the milled guard rests against the ricasso in a hidden tang knife, dagger, or 
					sword. See shoulder below. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- grips (grip)
- The definition for grip is a handle, so this 
					term is best avoided in modern custom handmade knives, though 
					factories often use it because it sounds masculine and active. 
					There is a bona fide use of the word grip when talking about 
					historic sword handles only (see hilt below). When 
					I think of grips, I'm carried back to my childhood and think of the 
					plastic grips that were slid over the handlebars of my Huffy 
					bicycle. It's kind of a low-rent term for handle scales, handle 
					material, and a knife handle and is vague and non-specific. I 
					suppose you could call the rubbery soft Kraton or Neoprene foam 
					handles molded to the knife grips. I think this is a particularly 
					bad way to handle a knife. If the material is soft and flexible, it 
					has a very limited life on a knife handle, and is just not a durable 
					material. If you really have to worry about hand fatigue and 
					need soft, cushy grips, you're 
					using the knife for the wrong thing, you're using your knife too 
					much, or you're weak. Perhaps some decent gloves will help, and 
					don't use the knife on vibrating machinery... 
					Alphabet Links
					
- guard
- A guard is used to do just that, 
					guard against injury by protecting the hands from opponents. So, 
					the origins of a guard were in sword fighting where parrying daggers 
					and the strikes from opponents could injure the swordsman's hands, 
					disarming him. Here on the Internet, you'll see it mentioned that 
					the purpose of a guard is to protect the hands from the cutting 
					edge. Though this may be a result of a guard, it is the quillon that 
					does so, by keeping the hand from moving forward on the blade. The 
					term guard in current times usually refers to the entire fitting including large, long or independent 
					protuberances of metal that extend well beyond the hand between the 
					blade and handle. Seems simple enough, but actual guards are usually 
					defined on swords, daggers, or hidden tang knives, and the term is 
					rarely used on full tang knives where quillons, often 
					built into the tang and bolster, do the job of hand security. Simply 
					put, a guard is used to guard against an opponent with another edged 
					weapon, not to guard your hand from your own cutting edge and are a 
					component of a hidden tang knife, dagger, or sword. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- gunmetal (gun metal)
- You may see this word used to describe parts of knives (usually fittings), and it is usually incorrect. Gun metal is strictly defined
					as bronze, traditionally nine parts copper and one part tin (with modern variations of this mixture). Also called red brass, bronze is rarely used in modern knife fittings,
					but does have some limited use and appeal. This is a metal that can be considered both a bronze or a brass since modern gunmetal (red brass) can be alloyed 
					with both tin and zinc. Where this term is so often misused is in describing steel. Historically, this takes place because early guns
					(think cannons) were made of bronze. As steel has taken over in the framework of most firearms and large guns, people automatically assumed
					that gunmetal is steel, when it is not. Also, this sounds more attractive to describe a knife guard as "engraved gunmetal" or "hot blued 
					gunmetal" than "mild" or "plain steel," which is usually what it is. So, it's an advertising ploy used to make steel sound special. By the way,
					no gunmetal is hot blued, trying to do so will destroy the bluing bath and won't work. Bronzes, instead, are patinaed. When you read or hear the term gunmetal,
					the first thought that should go through your mind is to question if the person describing it is misusing the word on purpose, or accidentally, because
					if it is used to describe steel, it's wrong. One more important thing to remember: steel, unless it's stainless steel, will rust and corrode 
					and be a constant source of worry and care on any knife fitting. Bluing can help, but plain steel or low carbon steel must be babied, waxed, 
					oiled, and never left with fingerprints. That's why I rarely, if ever, use it on knife fittings.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- gusset
- I've heard some guys use this term to describe 
					the welts in a knife sheath, but that's just not right. A gusset is the 
					piece of material in garb used to join and connect two angular 
					pieces, it's also the angled span that connects two ninety degree 
					components, like the support of a shelf. The word is derived from 
					the French word gousset, meaning armpit referring to the 
					material that forms that joint in armor or a shirt. That alone is 
					reason enough not to use it! Alphabet Links
					
- gut hook
- A hook that is formed in the knife blade for 
					gutting game. It is used by hooking around the skin of the animal, and 
					pulled along. The skin falls into the sharpened recess of the hook 
					and is severed. It is designed so that the person field dressing the 
					game animal does not have to use the belly of the knife blade to 
					create the main incision, because on most animals, the hair and hide 
					are very tough, often filled with dirt, blood, and debris, which can 
					dull a knife blade quickly. Since the gut hook cuts from the side 
					and inside of the skin, the hunter can preserve his main cutting 
					edge sharpness on this important step in field dressing. Hopefully, 
					if the gut hook is designed well, he will not lacerate the internal 
					organs of the animal which would spoil the meat with contaminating 
					fluids from the organs. For a similar knife blade feature, see 
					line cutter below. 
					Alphabet Links
				
- H
- half tang
- This is another term for a rabbeted tang, below.
					Alphabet Links
					
- hallmark
- Hallmarks are for gold, silver, and precious metals, not knives. Knives do not have hallmarks, they have maker's marks.
					Hallmarks come from our British friends who use them to designate the purity and content of gold in alloys, and this has nothing to 
					do with knives, unless a component of a knife is in precious metal and that metal is hallmarked for purity (which is something I've
					never heard of). So, don't use the term "hallmark" when referring to knives, it's the wrong word and you'll sound foolish. Use 
					"maker's mark" instead; it's the correct term to identify the maker of the knife. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- hallow (malapropism for "hollow")
- I've seen this frequently in the last ten years or so, and it's probably because of autocorrect and microphone input into cell phones
					and tablets. Hallow means "to  honor as holy or a saint" or "a holy person." This is not any part of a knife, unless you're  making some very 
					special knives indeed! The right word here is "hollow (grind)." 
					Alphabet Links
				
- haggling, haggle
- In this field, the word is mostly used the same as the words bargain, bargaining, bartering, and dickering. It means reaching an agreement, typically by 
					a series of offers, counter offers, and counter counter offers; you get it. This is not the way fine handmade knives are commissioned or sold. This
					type of process is defined in many dictionaries as applied 
					toward petty items, and a fine handmade knife that sells for thousands of dollars is
					not a petty item. More about this as it applies to my own work
					at this link on my FAQ page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- handle
- The handle of the modern handmade custom knife is 
					not just a thing to grab when you need to cut something; it is the 
					union with the human hand and a great canvas for works of knife art. 
					The handle comprises many components including the bolsters, scales, 
					fittings, sculpting, spacers, pins, tang filework, and many others. 
					Read more about Handles
					in general, and specific handle materials: 
					Woods,
					Horn, Bone, and Ivory,
					Manmade Handle Materials,
					Gemstone Knife 
					Handles. I've included hundreds and hundreds of pictures on 
					these pages and plenty of information. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- hand-rubbed (blade)
- I don't like them. Lots of makers do them, particularly beginning makers or guys who haven't refined their skill to 
					a high finish either through practice or choice. They  
					grind a knife blade to 180 or 220 grit, then clamp the blade horizontally in a jig, 
					wrap a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood or leather and 
					start hand sanding. I've seen this finish done up to 1200 grit, but 
					it still looks unfinished to me.  People rarely ask for this finish, and I've done it only once or twice in over 30 years of knifemaking. 
					This demonstrates to me that it isn't a desired finish by the knife client, otherwise it would be asked for more often. More likely and frequently,
					clients ask for a mirror finish, because it is of higher value, takes more skill, and looks better on most blades. A mirror finish also inhibits
					corrosion better than any other finish. Why do so many makers hand-rub their blades? I write about it specifically on my
					Blades page 
					at this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- hanger
- There are several definitions for this term. Up to and in the 1800's, a hanger was a type of 
					sword, short and slightly curved, and the name hanger was typically used by seaman from describing
					the way the sword was carried. The name in modern knives and knife accessories refers to the clips,
					hooks, or devices used to hang the knife (and sometimes sheath) in a vertical case, board, or display.
					Hangers may take a variety of forms and shapes and are important for durability and dependability. You 
					don't want to have that razor-sharp knife falling off the display! I've made display hangers in ivory,
					carved hardwood, metals, and sculpted and polished gemstone. See some examples of display hangers on 
					my Knife Stands page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- hardening temperature
- This is the temperature above the decalescence point to which 
					steels are heated for complete transformation before quenching 
					during hardening process. The hardening temperature (and time that 
					the blade is exposed to this temperature) depends on the steel 
					alloy, the manufacturer's guidelines, the cross-sectional thickness 
					of the blade, and the knifemaker's own experience for the desired 
					result of complete austenitizing. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- HCR (incorrect initialism)
- I've seen this string of letters used to identify the hardness of a knife blade, and this is a sloppy, amateur error. What the writer was trying to 
				identify is HRC, an initialism of Hardness, Rockwell, C-scale. 
				More at "HRC" below. 
				Alphabet Links
- heat treating
- This is the secret of steel, not Conan the Barbarian's conclusion that flesh is somehow stronger
					than steel, but that the character of steel can be varied tremendously by the control and exposure of 
					high and low temperatures. 
					On this page, I go into the details, and heat treating is a characteristic 
					of the modern tool steel worker that should be well-understood and well-practiced. Most of us old timers
					consider that if you don't do your own heat treating, you're not even a knife maker. Yep, it's true. Heat
					treating should be the start of the knife, and the first tool any knife maker should have is at the minimum
					a torch, and at least a heat treating oven. Only then can the maker know, understand, and control precisely
					the hardness and temper of the steel. More about
					heat treating, 
					hardness and 
					temper on my 
					Blades page. The most detailed, concise, and complete page you will find on the internet 
					about 
					Heat Treating and Cryogenic Processing of Knife Blade Steels is here.
					Alphabet Links
					
- heel (blade)
- The heel is defined as "the part of the blade of a sword next to the hilt," so it's easy to see why in modern times
					many people call the cutting edge at the grind termination of a hand knife "the heel." I actually think that this is incorrect, as 
					a knife	is not a sword. By the way, it's also defined as "the handle end of a pike." But, people will be lazy and rather than describe
					this as "the cutting edge at the choil," or "the cutting edge at the grind termination," it's less effort to call it a heel. 
					I suppose in the future, it will be called the "hee" and then just "h." Part of the laziness of communication that is sweeping 
					our culture. How did I get off on that, anyway? By the way the root of the word is "hock" or foot. So if a knife blade does not
					drop below the ricasso, it doesn't really have a "foot" shape, like many wide-bladed large chef's knives do. If the cutting edge just 
					stops (terminates), there may or may not be a small, large, plain, or intricate choil. If you are determined to call it a heel, 
					it would probably be best if done on chef's knives where the edge does drop below the hand and actually has a "heel" shape. Otherwise,
					just pronounce the extra fruit and vegetables (nouns and consonants) and take the effort to accurately describe this area.
					Alphabet Links
					
- heft
- In the old days, this term actually meant the 
					hilt (a dialectic variation of haft), but that use is 
					obsolete in America. Because the word also descends from heave, 
					currently it is a subjective term to describe the combination of 
					weight and balance of a knife. A weak, thin knife will feel light in 
					heft, a solid, substantial knife will feel hefty. Since every 
					person is different, this feeling is entirely subjective, but I like 
					to make most of my knives solid, firm, and having good balance and 
					heft. A thin, light, and flimsy knife may not be up to the task, 
					unless it's a fillet, boning, paring, or chef's knife, where you 
					want less heft and more flexibility. The heft of a knife is completely 
					up to the knife maker, and good experience and tactile practice is well applied here. The heft must 
					compliment the center of balance, and even the 
					center of percussion (above). 
					Alphabet Links
					
- hidden tang
- The hidden tang is described in detail above, at
					Knife Anatomy pictures 10-12. This 
					type of tang is hidden usually completely hidden beneath the handle material 
					that is held between the guard and the pommel. Though not as strong as the 
					full tang knife, it can be made quite serviceable. See also stacked 
					tang and stick tang below. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- hilt
- From the Anglo-Saxon word hilt, or hilte, Old High German 
					helza, or Old Norwegian, 
					hjalt. It simply means the handle of a sword or dagger. A 
					single-edged modern knife does not have a hilt; it has a handle. The 
					term is best relegated to swords and daggers only, not general 
					hand knives. There are many components to the hilt, including the 
					quillons, grip, pommel, knuckle bows, 
					pas de' ane, and crossguard of 
					a sword, and various other components. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- hollow (grind)
- The grind that significantly thins the knife blade in order to create thin enough cross section to then yield a
					serviceable, long-lasting, and sharp cutting edge. The word hollow comes from Middle English
					holow, hologh, holh, derived from hole, meaning
					sunken, depression, or concave. I believe that the hollow grind creates the sharpest, most serviceable, longest lasting grind of any 
					knife blade grind, and that it is the premiere knife grind seen on the best knives. History backs that up with thousands of examples left to 
					us in museums, representing hollow grinds throughout time. The hollow grind is the most difficult to create, execute well, and finish. It was 
					interesting to note that on one knife reference site, the author claims that hollow grinds are made with a grinding stone. Perhaps this was true 
					in the 19th century, but modern knives are hollow ground with abrasive belts. Read 
					more about the hollow grind on my "Blades" page at 
					this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- holster
- The word holster, originating from the Dutch word holfter (meaning house) is the case for a pistol and is not a knife term.
					Sometimes guys get these confused, but it might help to just remember an old west movie, and the sheriff who would be considered a dandy if he 
					told the bad guy, "You better holster that knife and sheath your gun!" Yep, doesn't work. Holster is the wrong word for knives. More on my
					sheaths 
					page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- homogeneous 
- This means having the same kind or nature, but it depends on 
				what scale the material is being examined. Overtly, on a 
				macroscopic level, steel is homogeneous, but when you examine it 
				on a microscopic level, it has non-homogeneous microscopic 
				structures. Since no one is examining knife blades under a 
				microscope, knife blades are generally homogeneous if they consist of 
				one kind of steel. An example of blades that are not homogeneous would be welded blades of different 
					components, pattern welded damascus steels, and blades that have hamon or temper lines since these are visual 
				physical differences in the steel.
					See monolithic and mono-steel below as a common misuse.
					Alphabet Links
- HRC
- You'll see this initialism (not 
				abbreviation) frequently if you look at a lot of knives. Simply put, it means Hardness, Rockwell, C (scale). There are many ways
				to measure the hardness of metals and other materials, but in knives, we are mostly concerned with the blade hardness. Knife blades are tools, and cutting 
				tools are measured on the highest hardness scales of the Rockwell tester, a penetration testing device. There are many scales in Rockwell hardness testing, 
				A - V. These scales vary depending on the material being tested, and the hardness tester uses various penetrating styluses, and varying pressures applied
				to test them. In knives, you'll generally see two scales used; Rockwell C (HRC), and Rockwell B (HRB). If a blade is measured in HRB, it's markedly softer
				than HRC. Sometimes, knife manufacturers will give a hardness, and it might appear high, but somewhere in their text, they'll identify that they are using
				the "B" scale. This is a tricky, misleading feint to get the customer to think a knife blade is harder than it is. On one "evaluation" of chef's knives, I 
				read the hardness represented as "HCR." This is the sign of a 
				sloppy amateur writer, or an unknowledgeable knife enthusiast. More about Rockwell hardness testing
				on my "Heat Treating and Cryogenic Processing of Knife 
				Blade Steels" page 
				at this bookmark.  
				Alphabet Links
- hunting knife
- Any knife used for hunting, mainly skinning and dressing game animals. This definition seems clear enough, but some of the knifemakers
					from the 20th century believed in tighter definitions, as to blade length, blade shape, and even the design of the guard. Hunting knives range
					from upswept (Western) trailing points with broad grinds to drop points to curved tantos. They may have sweeping bellies used for skinning; they 
					may have gut hooks and specific features for processing game. Many knives cross many types, and  hunting knives are no different, as they 
					may have features and geometries suited to survival and woodsman skills as well. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- hypereutectoid
- A hypereutectoid steel is a steel that contains more than 0.77% of carbon. In knifemaking, these are considered high carbon steels, as opposed to
				the lower carbon content of hypoeutectoid steels. More details on my 
				Heat Treating and 
				Cryogenic Processing of Knife Blade Steels at this link.  
				Alphabet Links 
- hypoeutectoid
- A hypoeutectoid steel is a steel that contains less than 0.77% of carbon. In knifemaking, these are considered low carbon steels, as opposed to
				the higher carbon content of hypereutectoid steels.  More details on my 
				Heat Treating and 
				Cryogenic Processing of Knife Blade Steels at this link.  
				Alphabet Links 
- hysteresis (hysteresis band)
- Also called "dead-band". In this context, it's the range of 
					cycling in ovens between the temperature that the heating element 
					turns off after reaching the set temperature, and the oven cools to 
					a lower temperature and then the element turns back on until the set 
					temperature is reached again. This creates a cyclic effect in a 
					range of temperature, and this is called hysteresis. In most ovens 
					and furnaces, this range can be extremely wide, between 50° and 150° 
					F, creating wide swings in temperature and inaccurate control of the 
					process. Attempts should be made with equipment to narrow this band 
					for greater accuracy in the process. In my own studio, switching 
					tempering and drying ovens to PID controllers will result in a 
					hysteresis band of about 1°F! Mechanical freezers can suffer 
					from wide hysteresis bands as well, applied to their cooling control 
					rather than heating control. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- I
- IBA
- The acronym for Interceptor Body Armor used by the United States military. Though it is being replaced by 
					the more modern IOTV and MTV armor, there are still a lot of units using these. Knives mounted to the exterior gear can be 
					bolted with my aluminum belt loops over and around the PALS webbing. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- IIFS
- This is the acronym for Individual Integrated Fighting System. This is not some new age robotic
					video game combat strategy, it is the equipment carrying system developed in the 1980s for combat that 
					allows the wearer to carry his equipment; pack, belts, and gear. It is newer than the ALICE system 
					described above, yet is being replaced by the MOLLE system and ILBE system described below. There are still a lot of 
					these around. They use the same 1965 era belt with eyelets design, so my tactical knife sheaths may be mounted
					by removing the belt loops and reattaching the loops around the belt. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- ILBE
- This is the acronym for the Improved Load Bearing Equipment system for carrying small equipment into
					combat. This recent military system was designed to replace the MOLLE and ALICE systems described in this 
					list. It uses the PALS one inch webbing system, described below, so my knife sheaths will bolt on over the 
					PALS webbing. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- integral
- This term usually refers to a knife that has been 
					milled down from a very thick piece of stock, making the bolsters, 
					guard, and/or fittings an 
					integral part of the blade. Usually applied to 
					full tang knife design, this means that the thickest part of the 
					metallic parts of a knife, usually the bolsters, are actually the 
					same solid piece of steel as the blade and tang. The reason for this 
					supposedly is to create a very strong blade-bolster-tang junction. One has to 
					question the high, extra, added expense of making a knife this way. 
					Since the weakest part of the knife is 
					the tip of the point of the cutting edge, extra strength at the bolster area is usually 
					unnecessary. Rarely, if ever, does a bolster snap off or become 
					unattached or loose from any well-made knife; in example: in the 
					thousands of knives I've made, I've never had one single problem 
					with any bolster, ever. One might question whether all this thick 
					stock milling is actually necessary, or if it may be a gimmick or 
					perhaps a way of turning over knife construction to a CNC milling 
					machine. There are some serious drawbacks to this type of milling 
					operation. First is the obvious expense of purchasing very thick 
					stock and passing that cost on to the client. Secondly,
					since the blade is hardened and tempered, so, too must be the bolsters,
					making them too hard to engrave and embellish. Additionally, blade 
					steels are not corrosion proof—even the highest chromium tool steels
					can corrode in long exposures to moisture from the hand where it contacts the bolster area. Mounting the proper
					type of corrosion-resistant materials (such as 304 austenitic high chromium, high nickel stainless steel)
					can prevent this. Another issue is that the bolster that is integrally milled
					can not be sculpted, faced, and radiused to the knife blade, as the shape of the bolster
					face and handle contact area is dictated by the limited function of the machine milling these areas. So a sculpted
					and finished bolster face (Knife Anatomy Illustration 6 above) is not possible in an integral bolster design. More about this 
					on my Handles, 
					Bolsters, and Guards page and in my book. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- interframe
- This is the knife maker's term for inlay, specifically the inlay of materials in a frame of a knife handle.
					The handle is typically but not exclusive to a folding knife; I've made them on both fixed blades and folders.
					The interframe inlay method allows a smaller, tight, and somewhat protected inset of materials, which keeps the 
					weight down and can offer striking creations and arrangements. 
					The interframe (inlayed knife handle) is usually weaker than 
				a full-tang handle, but stronger than a hidden tang handle.
				Here is a 
				folding knife with an inlayed gemstone handle. 
					Alphabet Links
- interstitial
- In this context, the word refers to the holes between larger metal atoms in crystalline lattices where smaller atoms
					or ions occupy. It also refers to the spaces in the larger molecular arrangement 
					that carbon and small carbides occupy. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- IOTV
- This is not the acronym for Indoor/Outdoor Television, but the acronym for 
					Improved Outer Tactical Vest, the evolution of body protection 
					gear for the military, and there are several and continuous variations to these 
					vest and gear systems. Most of them are using the PALS webbing system, so my tactical 
					sheaths can be mounted by mechanical screws on the sheaths with the belt loops
					over the PALS web. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- iron
- Of course a knifemaker's site would have to have this word! Funny thing; the word wasn't much in use before the end of the bronze age. That's because
					iron wasn't really used, apart from meteoritic iron, until the bronze culture collapsed, which is a fascinating story itself! The word comes from 
					Middle English isærn meaning iron weapon, which originated from the Old High German word isarn meaning holy metal or strong metal. This was probably 
					in comparison to bronze. Iron is an element (symbol Fe from the Latin ferrum). It comprises over 5% of the earth's crust, and is believed to comprise the bulk of the Earth's core, along with nickel. 
					This would correspond well with the meteoritic theory of the origin of earth, since many meteorites are iron-nickel. In any case, iron is the main component of steel, which
					is why it's mentioned here. We are an iron planet, and iron (and steel) are part of our history and existence, and the very 
					foundation for our knives. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- isometric
- means: of or exhibiting equality in dimensions or 
					measurements. This term is usually applied to daggers, which are 
					ordinarily balanced on both cutting edges and of equal dimensions 
					and handle shape, no matter the orientation and view. In simpler 
					terms, the profile (shape of the blade and handle) is the same 
					whether viewed from the obverse side or the reverse side. The only 
					way to tell which side is which is the maker's mark, which is always 
					placed on the obverse side. A blade may be isometric but the handle 
					not, and also the handle may be isometric but the blade not. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- isotropic
- Meaning having the same mechanical and thermal properties in all directions. I use this when discussing modern knife steels, which are isotropic. An example
					of a  non-isotropic steel blade would be pattern welded damascus, which has different properties in different directions. The same can 
					be said for wood, but austenitic stainless steels like 302 and 304 are completely isotropic. In knives, this property is important to consider
					when making the knife, machining, and finishing the components, and choosing the right orientation for appearance and strength in natural 
					materials like stone, woods, and other natural and manmade materials. Yes, some stones are isotropic and some are not! You had better know the 
					difference before you use them for a knife handle, since many 
				directional mechanical forces may be involved.
					Alphabet Links
					
- IT
- This is the short, punchy, and accurate acronym for Information Technology, what you are reading right now. Every successful
					business has some type of information technology, and it's sad to see major knife manufacturers and makers neglect this wonderful
					and necessary medium while spreading wives' tales and hype. It's about information, and the people who read this information are not
					the old-style, typical, undereducated commoners who are sold by the hype 
				about the "soul of the blade," and other such nonsense. People 
					will never claim there is too much information about the product they are buying, and somehow modern IT professionals just don't get  
					this. They claim that the speed of presentation is key, that just enough information to secure the purchase is all that the buyer
					needs. They are, and will continue to be, misinformed. Many businesses lump the IT department with the web development department, as if 
					they are the same. So, is the guy that writes the coding is their most informed in the process, item, history, development, and sales 
					of the product? Of course not, he just updates the website and makes sure it will take your credit card number and order the item. 
					This is why sites are so often filled with misinformation and curiously 
					humorous statements. 
					Here's an example. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- J
- jimping
- The old word, jimp that came from North England 
					and Scotland, means neat, handsome, and slender in form. The knife 
					industry designated regular, machined cuts or cross-hatched patterns 
					on the back of the spine of the knife to improve traction of the 
					fingertips jimping. They still call those regular spaced 
					machine-made cuts jimping, but the in the custom and handmade knife 
					world the embellishment of this area has evolved into artistic filework. Jimping may be machine-cut 
					by automated slitters, mills, or blades, but 
				filework must be 
					hand-cut. In my world, calling filework "jimping" is an insult, 
				and novice and beginning knifemakers do it all the time. Read 
					more about filework on my
					Embellishment page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- K
- kiln
- Defined as a device with a chamber where things are baked, dried, heated, cooked, or cured: many knifemakers use the term 
					kiln to describe a heat treating furnace or a tempering oven. There is no solid rule here, but kilns are usually described as being high temperature devices, lined with brick, and often 
					used to fire pottery or bricks. Pottery firing has been the standard use of kilns in the United States for many decades, but recently (in the last 20 years or so) 
					knifemakers have started using the term kiln to describe a heat treating furnace. It could be that this is because many makers have adapted pottery kilns
					for heat treating use, which is a bad idea, since pottery kilns usually have very slow heating rates, detrimental to knife blade heat treatment. The 
					term is also used by at least one company manufacturing heat treating devices; they use the words 
					kiln and furnace interchangeably, since they manufacture both. It could also be because of the internet and search engine optimization. Other usage may 
					be because in some localities, the term furnace is used 
				colloquially to describe a home heating system, and the word kiln sounds better. In any case, when I hear or read a maker using the term "kiln," I know he probably hasn't studied much 
					scientific data on heat treating, since scientific institutions 
				and authorities use the word "furnace" when discussing heat treating or changing metals. 
					Alphabet Links
- knifemaker
- Though this seems a simple term, it is a fairly recent one. You won't find it in any modern dictionary, and though it seems fairly self-explanatory, it can be
					a confusing term. Technically an neologism (a new word based on several older words describing a unique 
					definition), the term varies from country to country and from generation
					to generation. Older terms, such as knifesmith, do not strictly define knifemaking. This is because 
					smith in the USA is generally defined as "one who forges with a hammer," and seldom more loosely,
					"one who makes things." This is not how the very best modern knife steels are processed—most of them can not be hammer-forged—and technically, they are machined. 
				Would
					that mean that a knifemaker is a machinist? If he works with the finest modern high alloy tool steels, he must indeed use machinist's processes and skills. Since in the USA,
					smithing is generally considered as hammer-forged, you would not call a machinist a 
					smithy; he would be insulted! Being a machinist would not define the great number of skills and techniques used 
					to make the handle, since woods, horn, bone, ivory, and stone are not machined. A carpenter would define the woodworker in the knifemaking shop, but makers such as myself would
					also have to be called lapidarists. We might also be defined as sculptors, leatherworkers, designers, and foundry workers. Don't forget photographers, internet technology developers,
					weapons and tool makers, and jewelers. What about engravers? Cutler is another older term that refers to knife making. However, in 
					the USA, cutlery is considered any number of common, cheap, food service and consumption utensils, so a 
					cutler would be one who makes these common kitchen and service
					implements, and this is not what most modern knifemakers do. So, for now, the best defining term that encompasses what guys like me do is 
					knifemaker. It's not a glamorous,
					exciting, or thrilling title, but it is a descriptive neologism that currently defines our modern craft. When people ask me what I do, and I don't want to go into the vast 
					details of my profession, I'll tell them I'm an artist. That covers a lot of it. If they want more information, I'll tell them I'm a Professional Custom Knifemaker. That 
					is rarely enough for them. The more questions I answer, the more confusion and 
					curiosity grows. It's an unusual profession and art to describe!
					Alphabet Links
					Distinctive types of modern knifemaking are
				detailed here.
- knurled, knurl
- This word comes as a conferred term from knur, a hard excrescence of a tree, a rough area, the same 
					root as the word gnarled. Machinists use the
					knurling tool to make a knurled finish on tools to aid in grip. How it works is one or several 
				textured rollers are forced against a rotating handle on 
					the lathe or mill, and the metal is displaced in raised, knobby forms, very small and patterned. This creates a rough surface to grip. 
					This is	not the way to finish any knife handle; it is cheap, poor, and does not perform well, holding dirt, debris, and abrading the skin. In the shop, 
					it is a handy and fast way to give a little more grip friction to work tools, so it has its place. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- L
- laminated (steel)
- From the Latin lamina derived from the Old Norse word lamar meaning thin plate, this refers to plates of metal bonded together, usually 
					by fusion welding or diffusion welding by hand or automated process. This process is actually very old, and started in various world cultures, so not one culture can claim
					historic origin or any kind of superiority. What is more important is to understand why it was—and is—done. Early steels were not capable of being both hard and tough,
					so a hard, wear-resistant inner plate of steel was bonded to a tougher, more flexible outer layer. Other laminating methods produce a softer, 
					more flexible core or back, with the cutting edge made of the hardest material. The idea was that the cutting edge would
					be hard, and the other layers would allow limited flexing and toughness while supporting the cutting edge layer, which was brittle. The process worked
					well for its time, but is distinctly outdated, no matter what you may read from knife makers or manufacturers. This is because the cutting edge needs to be very 
					thin in order to be sharp, and if that thin edge is made of brittle steel, 
				it may easily fracture. These fractures may be microscopic and 
					present as edge wear, the very thing a hard steel is supposed to prevent! Nowadays, there are far superior steels that are isotropic, uniform,
					and of high alloy content, so hardness and toughness are both available throughout the blade. In other applications, a more corrosion-resistant
					outer layer protects a less corrosion resistant inner wear-resistant layer. In my book, I'll go into why these steels are actually
					suspect now, and problems with their origin and sources and use. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- laminates
- On one site, I read that the word "laminate" refers to wood. Currently, many different things can be laminated, 
				so the use of this term alone should be avoided without 
					identifying what is laminated. For instance, we can laminate vulcanized fish fiber 
					insulation material (spacer) with phenolics, hardwoods, or metals. We can even 
					laminate gemstone. The word comes from lamar, an Old Norse word meaning hinge. So the plates of a hinge are the origins of the word laminate. Interesting.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- lanyard, lanyard hole
- A lanyard is a cord, thong, loop, or strap used for an extra measure of security. 
					The lanyard is often mounted 
					through a hole that is milled, drilled, forged, or carved, usually through 
					the butt of the handle at the rear bolster, tang, and sometimes 
					pommel. The lanyard may be wrapped around a wrist, around the neck 
					(probably a bad practice), or tied to the body so the knife is 
					secure. I have lots of clients who insist on lanyards for 
				knives that are used onboard ship. 
					A short lanyard may assist in extracting or pulling the knife from 
					the sheath, particularly if the sheath is deep and protective. The 
					use of a lanyard must be carefully considered, because the strap, loop, or 
					thong may hang up on machinery, gear, and brush, adding difficulty 
					and frustration (or danger) to carrying the knife in the particular 
					environment. Most of my lanyard holes extend through the tang for great strength and 
					security. In wood, horn, bone, and ivory handles, if there is no 
					rear bolster in a full tang knife, the lanyard hole is usually lined 
					with a metal tube to protect the handle material from splitting, 
					stress, and wear. I use the term  thong tube and thong less 
					frequently these days, as there might be confusion with modern 
					female undergarments- and that is no place for a knife! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- lap
- This is a very old word, coming from Middle English lappe, from Anglo Saxon 
					læppa, akin to Dutch lap, and means a patch or a piece. In machining (and in lapidary), it refers to a small piece
					of material rubbed against another, so that one (or both of them) abrade each other, thus making surfaces mate against each other. Take the process further,
					and you'll achieve a finer surface. Add some abrasives in increasing grit steps, and you'll achieve a very fine polish. This is how faceted gemstones
					have been ground throughout history. In metals, a very fine matching surface can be achieved between two pieces, and in stone, a very flat and smooth 
					surface can be achieved. This is the root of the word 
					lapidary.
					Alphabet Links
					
- lapidary
- One who cuts, shapes, polishes, and finishes stones, rock, or precious gems. The root of the word is lap. Lapidaries take on several forms
					in current times: those who lap (disc grind, shape and polish precious gems) for faceted mounts, those who work in the jewelry trade, 
					those who perform small carvings in stone, and those who form mosaics or 
					terrazzo in artistic pieces. There are many more, but lapidarists are 
					considered typically working with rock of value. So the guy who installs your granite countertop is not a lapidary, though he may use a diamond
					wet grinder to shape and finish the edges and joints. Lapidary is an extremely slow process, taking  much more time than machining or grinding
					and finishing metals, since the materials are often harder, and definitely more unpredictable than metals. It takes specialized equipment and 
					a wet studio or shop to work with stone and minerals and a wholly different set of knowledge. What I do is typically considered lapidary carving,
					with inlays, doublets, mosaics and mounting gemstone and rock in steel, and it's a unique combination not found in the jeweler's trade or in 
					the free sculptural carver's trade. More about 
					gemstone handled knives on this dedicated page on my site. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- lattice
- A regular geometrical arrangement of objects 
					constituting volume; specifically:
					the arrangement of atoms in a crystal in a clear and definite 
					physical and mechanical form. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- layered (sheath)
- There are several sheath construction types, and the layered is also called 
				sandwich style. 
					The sheath has a defined and separate face (or front), back, and welts, and is constructed
					by lacing, stitching, or riveting the layers together. This type of sheath is the most creative
					in my opinion, because tight tolerances can be used to form the sheath, and the sheath profile 
					is not limited by folded leather which always creates a straight edge 
					and a single thickness of leather which can be more vulnerable to the knife point and cutting edge. 
					More on my Sheaths page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- lead-off (grind)
- The grind lead-off is the geometry of the 
					grind as it leads off the spine toward the tip of the blade. This is 
					another tough spot to properly create and finish on the modern 
					custom knife. The balance should be controlled for the intended 
					purpose of the knife, the strength of the blade tip or point, and 
					the fullness of the spine. A tactical knife would have a much more 
					shallow lead-off than a working knife, which will be thicker than a 
					chef's knife which often has the widest lead-off and thinnest blade 
					at the point of any knife blade design. Like the plunge (below), it 
					is a tenuous area for custom knives, as the lead-off should be 
					matched at both sides, and this can be seen by casting a view down 
					the point with both eyes. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- left under the table
- This is a term from knife shows. The shows were filled with knifemakers who rent tables for a weekend,
					and display and try to sell their wares from the table top. Not everything was worthy of the precious space 
					on the table, so some items were left "under the table," so that they would not distract from what was on top 
					of the table. Makers who made marginal or poor sheaths commonly kept their sheaths under the table, and when 
					asked, would present them to potential knife clients, usually with an apology. See my 
					Sheaths page for more 
					details about this. Other items left under the table were the lesser knives, bargain knives, and 
					other unworthy bits of a knifemaker's business. In discussion, other makers might suggest that a particular piece, 
					practice, or story might best be left under the table (and rarely publicly presented). 
					Alphabet Links
					
- legacy (patterns, designs)
- The term legacy typically identifies something left behind by a knife maker, artist,
					or person who has died, simply, an item handed down from the past. With knife makers, this
					often refers to patterns of knives. The families of past knife makers often distribute or 
					gift patterns. I consider it a great 
					honor to make knives based on legacy patterns and designs.
					Alphabet Links
					
- line cutter
- Similar to the gut hook above in appearance, 
					but usually smaller and often placed near the choil or ricasso, the 
					line cutter is a specially shaped cutter designed to capture small line 
					and sever it. Particularly useful in marine or wet environments 
					where a floating or wet line may simply float away from the knife 
					blade, and it would take two hands to cut the line 
					(one holding the line, one holding the knife). With a line cutter, 
					in one motion the line is guided down the arm and hand to the
					knife, where it is hooked and severed. Particularly useful 
					for small line and rope, monofilament, netting, and small rigging 
					lines. A great illustration of a line cutter is at the ricasso of my 
					Flamesteed. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- liner
- On a folding knife, this is the flat plate 
					that supports the handle sides, bolsters, spine, and blade pivot. 
					In the old days, it was called a bolster liner, because that is where the bolsters are attached. This term has fallen out of 
					modern use, because the bolster may have a decorative liner of another material, which renders the older term confusing. Many of 
					my liner lock knives have liners made of 6AL4V titanium because of its light 
					weight, high toughness, springy nature, and good wear 
					characteristics. Other liners may be austenitic stainless steel. A liner is not spacer material! I've seen spacers called 
					liners, they are not. See spacer material below. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- lock tang (sheath)
- On my locking sheaths, the lock tang (made of 
					304 or 316 austenitic stainless steel) engages the knife at the 
					thumb rise notch (below). This is the main movable component that 
					the thumb disengages to release the knife from the sheath. I make this
					of highly corrosion resistant stainless steel for toughness, wear
					resistance, and longevity. The lock tang is hinged to the anchor tang, 
					and sometimes carries a crossbar to widen thumb contact for the release
					from the sheath. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- locket
- This is derived from the French loquet, meaning latch, and is the fitting sometimes attached to the mouthpiece chape of a scabbard to engage
					a hole, loop, or frog of a belt. This is, then, the device that allows the sheath to engage the belt for hanging the knife on the belt. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- loop, belt
- A belt loop is usually formed in leather, and is called a loop because early typical sheaths were made by bending a loop in the 
					leather and attaching it to the back of the sheath. Belt loops today may be stitched to the back of the sheath top and bottom, and 
					while technically not fully formed loops, they are still called loops. 
					So called are also slits, cut in the sheath back that the belt can be threaded through.  Making loops is important and durability and attachment must be 
					carefully considered and addressed, as all of the weight of the knife and sheath hang on this one piece of material. Severe bending, carving, or thinning of 
					the loops can shorten their life, and when they fail, the knife is lost. On my tactical and combat sheaths, the loops are high strength,
					corrosion resistant aluminum alloy. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- lowballing
- Lowballing describes the process that manufacturers and knife boutique shops use to 
					offer a knife that beats a competitor's price, undercutting him on the market. How it's done
					is to make a cut in product quality. An example might be to not grind any blade finer than 180 grit, 
					and then spray coat it with an inexpensive baked finish. The finish is hyped by advertising as being "non-glare",
					"improving lubricity" or offering a "stealthy, tactical appearance." This is actually just a way to 
					cover a cut in quality, as the overall cost of knife production drops as further metal sanding and polishing is eliminated.
					The cost of a simple advertising phrase is much less than the time, skill, and effort to properly finish 
					the knives, so the knife production cost goes down, and the price stays the same, and more profit
					is made. Lowballing decisions are rooted in the bean counting (accounting) of cost-based production,
					and always have a negative effect on quality. People don't purchase this kind of knife for an investment,
					they purchase it because of the advertising. Where the misconception materializes is when they begin to 
					think the knife is actually worth investing in. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- low carbon steel
- See mild steel below. 
				Alphabet Links
				
- M
- maker's mark
- This is the mark displayed on the knife (typically on the "mark) side (obverse) of the knife blade that identifies the maker of the 
					knife. All good knives should have a maker's mark, and sometimes other information is included, like location, model number, production
					number, and maybe even a little graphic of a scantily clad female to seal the deal (just kidding). This is not a hallmark (see hallmark above)
					and you can learn a lot about maker's marks on a special page I've created about that very subject 
					at this link. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- marlinspike
- A frequent accessory on sailor's or mariner's 
					knives. This is a small pointed tool for working into difficult 
					knots to loosen them, and for aiding in braiding, working, modifying 
					or creating features in rope, line and cable. I've found them 
					absolutely critical if you have a difficult knot to work loose, and 
					don't want to cut your line. They can also have additional features, 
					like shackle-breakers, custom slots, and scrapers built in. 
					Being marine-grade, they should be made of stainless steel. Here's a 
					great example in my 
					Mariner with Seahawk marlinspike and shackle breaker. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- MARPAT
- Acronym for MARine disruptive PATtern camouflage, this is the 
					modern camo pattern used only on United States Marine Corps military uniforms. Since this is a patented 
					form, color, and process, it is not available to anyone anywhere unless you pop for a very expensive license. Since the blocky, broken pattern concept is a good one, most branches of the military have developed their own form of this pattern,
					called digital camouflage, or digi-camo. Even many other countries have developed their own versions of this type
					of pattern. See digital camouflage above. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- martensite
- Martensite is a very hard, corrosion resistant wear resistant 
					crystalline structure created by sudden quenching transformation 
					from austenite. More about 
					martensite at this 
					bookmark, and further explanation of
					understanding martensite at this 
					bookmark.
					Alphabet Links
					
- meat
- I could be talking about the type of tissue that a butcher uses with his knives, but I'm not. The meat of a knife blade is 
					the cross-sectional thickness and overall width, which, when considered together, mean the total cross-sectional mass of the blade
					anywhere along its length. Yes, it's slang, and a good and quick way to describe a component that is not often considered, and is difficult
					to determine from a flat, two dimensional photograph of a knife from the side. A knife with a large, meaty spine is very well supported and extremely strong, a knife with a lightweight, 
					thin, or double ground edge will have less meat along its length. The same idea can be applied to the handle, sheath, and accessories. 
					A 9-10 oz. leather shoulder cross section is much meatier than a 5-6 oz., and my polypropylene webbing used on the belt loop extenders will 
					support the weight of more than six men; meaty indeed! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- MERGE Units
- This is the acronym for Mobile Emergency Response Group and Equipment. This is another name for a SWAT team (Special Weapons and Tactics). 
					Typically, they are responsible for supporting the field operations by providing special skills and equipment to address critical incidents 
					involving threats to life. They may also assist other entities like the Secret Service with dignitary protection and provide direct 
					support to patrol personnel in the apprehension of violent criminals. They often require specialized knives and critical wear accessories 
					that are custom and handmade to suit their individual needs. It's an honor to work with these guys!
					Alphabet Links
					
- metastable
- In the context of steel phases, this means stable for the 
					moment, if no outside forces or conditions act upon the metallic 
					structure. So in knife blades, this is not really reasonable, as 
					force on the structure of the steel (applied by cutting and 
					pressure), aging (inevitable), and temperature changes can all force 
					the metastable material into another phase or condition. The 
					idea is to get the blade into a "stable metastable" condition, 
					so that normal knife use and exposure does not induce changes in 
					the steel knife blade. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- mid-bolster
- On full tang knives, this is the description 
					of the bolster pair that is similar to the sub-hilt of hidden tang knives (below). This 
					central bolster pair are attached to the handle (or milled), usually located 
					behind the area of the forefinger. This allows pressure to be 
					applied to sawing cuts when pulling backward on the knife, and adds additional security in grip. By using 
					bolster material here, thin cross-sectional areas of the handle are 
					avoided. For example, if hardwood was used here, the wood that 
					extends down the point of the quillon protrusion would be small, thin, and 
					weak, and could split off. A good example of a mid-bolster design is my 
					Patriot. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- mild steel
- This is a typical industrial name for low carbon steel, also known as plain carbon steel. This is steel that has very little carbon, and is used 
					in applications where great strength and wear resistance are not important. This is cheap and malleable steel, used where great masses of the stuff
					are required (as in structural steel). You may see it in used in pattern welded damascus knife layers, as the contrasting layer that is welded to a more 
					wear resistant higher alloy tool steel. Unfortunately, this steel is commonly used for engraved knife fittings, because it is soft and easy to engrave, 
					and cheap. It can then be cold blued (with room temperature solutions) to darken the backgrounds of the engraving. The problem with using this steel
					for fittings is so pervasive, I really don't know why it's still used on modern knives. It will rust at the mere exposure to air. It has to be coated, 
					babied, cleaned, and a fingerprint can never be left on the surface, or it will be etched permanently into the steel. There are much better choices
					for engraving, but it's a traditional material. Even nickel silver is much more corrosion resistant than mild steel, but guys who must have soft 
					metal to engrave don't use it. I believe this is because nickel silver much more expensive than mild steel, which can be found in any old piece of angle
					iron, bar stock, or structural beam.  I prefer high nickel, high chromium 304 
					austenitic stainless steel for my engraved fittings. It simply won't corrode, 
					and will usually outlast the knife blade. 
					Alphabet Links
- millwork
- This is a neologism, meaning worked by a modern mill. In knifemaking, a mill is not the kind of stone used to crush grain, our 
					mill is a modern milling machine, a heavy solid electrically powered machine with accurate beds and travel and a rigid but adjustable
					rotating cutting head. The actual cutting is done by milling cutters (or mills for short) which are made of tool steels,
					high speed steels, carbide, or have carbide inserts. Millwork is similar to the 
					piercework of old; however a machine is used to remove material (usually from 
					the blade) with the first consideration to lighten the weight of the blade, and the second consideration 
					artistic. Millwork may be followed by extensive handwork for artistic completion. Millwork
					is seen also on skeletonized blades and knives where the entire handle bulk has been milled away to lighten the weight. 
					I've got a special page on the site dedicated to 
					skeletonized knives as it is a unique and critical form. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- mineralized
- Mineralized tusks, bones, and once-living organic materials are the actual 
					materials that have been soaked and impregnated with moisture, bearing 
					minerals, over centuries and sometimes millennia. The minerals carried in by 
					the moisture darken and stain the material in interesting patterns and colors, and may stabilize or 
					toughen it somewhat. Often, this is called fossil mammoth or 
					fossil mastodon tusk, fossil ivory, or fossil walrus tusk. This is 
					incorrect. these are not fossils, and the correct descriptive term 
					is mineralized. Another term that some makers have started to use is 
					ancient, mainly
					to differentiate modern banned ivory from old ivory that has been reclaimed from 
					the soil. The term ancient should probably not be used, since it specifies
					a time of early civilization. Since some of the mineralized organics have dated
					to over 10,000 years ago, they predate human civilization. Also, the term is vague,
					because many makers are ancient; at least we've been called that... (See fossil above) 
					Alphabet Links
					
- MLCE
- Acronym for Modernized Load Carrying Equipment, introduced into the US Army in 1968 during the Vietnam War. This is the 
					cotton webbing with eyelets and sliding metal clamps that we saw so much of as kids in the 1970s. Some of this gear is still 
					available in surplus shops, for cheap. There are much better types of gear  now, but in a pinch, it can be acquired for little 
					investment, and it's longevity is a testament to its durability.
					Alphabet Links
- mokume-gane
- This is a technique developed in ancient Japan and the word means "wood-grained metal." It's done by diffusion welding or soldering and forging (or pressing and rolling)
					non-ferrous metals, more typically in knifemaking, copper-based metals which will bond and fuse reliably. The layers of metal are then forged in a billet, 
					creating a composite metal that has a "wood-grained" appearance. There are a whole host of non-ferrous metals that have been historically
					used to make mokume-gane including copper and its alloys, gilding metal, gold, and silver (coin and sterling). 
				Here's a knife with mokume-gane bolsters.
					Alphabet Links
- molle gear
- Acronym for Modular Lightweight	Load carrying Equipment, the modern carrying method for the 
					U. S. Army and other professional services like law enforcement. 
					Modern knives should be compatible with mounting arrangements, 
					compatible with PALS webbing (below). 
					Alphabet Links
- monolithic ("mono-steels") [Incorrect Slang]
- Knifemakers use a lot of slang, some of it bad, and this is a bad and very common one. It's often used to distinguish a uniform piece of steel from 
					pattern-welded damascus steel or layered steels which consist of varying layers of different types of steels. On forums and on websites by uneducated knifemakers and knife
					enthusiasts, you'll see the term "mono-steels" thrown out. What these guys are trying to describe is 
				homogeneous steels, but it wouldn't be cool to use 
					the slang "homo-steels," and a bit, well, awkward, so they use "mono-steels." Really. It probably comes from monolith and monolithic which means 
					consisting of one stone; a monolith is a single rock, like a monolith in Stonehenge.
 Some might argue that the prefix 
					mono- is a universal catch-all prefix, but in American English, maybe it means that steel has mononucleosis. When I hear the 
					phrase "mono-steel," I'm reminded of this, and most Americans
					are, too. Maybe it's used to associate uniform, homogeneous steels with a disease, casting them in an unfavorable light...
 If you want to use the narrow scientific terminology, 
					mono means "compounds containing one atom of a particular element (i.e. monohydrate)". This is NOT steel! 
					Steel is a solution, consisting of many elements, so "mono" doesn't work 
					in the scientific sense, either.
 "homogeneous" means consisting of all parts of the 
					same kind, uniform, identical, unvaried, unvarying, consistent, similar, undistinguishable. Clearly,
					uniform steel is homogeneous, not monolithic since steel is not a stone. See 
					homogeneous above.
 Still, this simple definition gets a lot of confused commentary. This is because of forum 
					and discussion board postings, where knife enthusiasts are creating 
					their own words, despite the existing metallurgy, machine shops, steel industry, and metals research community. In every one of those fields, you won't find anyone using the 
					term "mono-steel." It's not in any machinist's guide, no steel manufacturer or supplier, no industrial metals application, and definitely not in any academic research text, anywhere! Where 
					you will find it is on the knife forums, Instagram, and Reddit. So, if you want to advertise that you are a knife forum junkie, that's the term you'll probably use while claiming that the rest 
					of the actual professional metals field doesn't know what they are talking about. Oh, and the cheap import companies trying to sell knives are starting to use the word, since this is the level
					of market they are catering to.
 What, then is the correct term when one is referring to a uniform, isotropic, 
				homogeneous steel? Scientific researchers in metallurgy call this 
					a "homogeneous alloy." Better yet, they call it "steel" and then identify it by type: "tool steel", "martensitic stainless steel," 
					"die steel". For even more accuracy, they identify the alloy name: 1085, D2, CTS-XHP. For the greatest accuracy, they list the 
					actual alloy content, but that's too much for casual discussion. How about just "steel?"
 So, please don't embarrass yourself by writing to me to argue that the forum participants know more than the actual metals industry and researchers; you won't change my mind 
					anymore than you can change the entire metals research field, but you're free to try. Start writing to the metallurgical departments at all the universities; insist on all textbooks
					being changed so they can get it "right."
 The same guys who complain about this section of "mono-steel" are calling pattern-welded steels Damascus, and the real damascus is 
					Wootz crucible steel, watered steel alloy made in ancient times, and yes, 
					it's a single alloy, not made of two different kinds of steel. But they've hijacked the name long ago... Poor ancient Syria, it never gets the credit!
 Moral of the story: Get a book, read it. Don't get your information from a forum or discussion board or YouTube video.
 If you are a knife client, knife customer, or knife buyer, beware of the knifemaker's use of this word; it tags him as a forum-educated knifemaker, and you would be right to 
					consider his knowledge because of his vocabulary. People who are 
					knowledgeable about steels aren't using terms like "mono-steels, ice-quenching, blood groove, or fighting knife."
- mortised tang
- This is a description listed in some 20th century texts for a rabbeted tang that is inserted in a split pair of 
					handle scales. Technically, it is not a mortise; a mortise is a square hole usually cut in wood that accommodates a matching 
					square tenon. These same texts cite a modern knifemaker as introducing this to knives, but countless examples exist in historical
					weapons, knives and tools. Many early Japanese weapons and tools have this type of handle. 
					There are even bronze aged weapons and tools that have handles mounted in this fashion, so citing a modern knifemaker as developing
					this method is ridiculous! Read about rabbeted tangs below. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- mosaic pins
- A constructed knife pin used to secure handle scales to a 
					full tang knife, made of multiple small pins or wire assembled into 
					tubing and usually filled with black epoxy. Sometimes a tube within a tube is 
					used, with varying sizes, shapes, and arrangements. Back in the 80's 
					knifemakers could only make these pins themselves, and now they are 
					commonly sold by knife making supply companies. I try to stay away from them. While they present some 
					visual interest, I believe a knife is much better served cleanly, 
					with smooth execution, with solid and striking handle material, and a 
					good form. Additionally, the mosaic pin is usually large, in order
					to contain the assemblage of smaller pins, tubing, and pieces 
					arranged inside it. A large pin 
					might make a strong pin, but I believe multiple smaller pins strengthen 
					the overall handle scale-to-tang assembly. By having multiple contact points, stresses
					are distributed over a wider area of the tang. Since singular pins are smaller, they 
					don't require a large hole to be bored in the handle material, which can weaken  
					the scales of some of the more brittle materials like ironwood, rosewoods, 
					ebonies, and even G10. A useful comparison would be through-nailing two boards together with 
					either one big nail, or multiple smaller diameter nails. Which is tougher overall 
					and creates less stress in the wood? 
					Alphabet Links
					
- mouth, sheath
- The sheath mouth is where the knife is inserted. This may be simply a large hole in the top 
					of the sheath, or it may be a narrow slit in a sheath that has the knife handle covered, secured,
					or resting in a separate area. The sheath mouth construction is important; the welts must be 
					sufficiently thick to accommodate bolsters, they must be ramped to guide the knife blade in and discourage twisting
					the blade which can cut the face and back of the sheath. The mouth of the sheath can be a nice area for 
					display of the knife's embellishment, bolsters, or handle material. Ultimately, it should be constructed
					with durability in mind. 
					Alphabet Links
- MPIF
- This is the abbreviation for the Metal Powder Industries Federation, the world's most comprehensive source for powder metallurgy and
					particulate materials knowledge. This field didn't really exist when I started making knives over 35 years ago, and is a new and 
					exciting materials realm for metallurgists. While expensive, the powder metals like CPMS30V, CPMS90V, CPMS35VN, and CPM154CM are major 
					players in the new metals technology used in fine handmade custom knife blades, and some new ones like N360 nitrogen stainless steel
					are sure to become mainstays in the corrosion resistant knife blade field. What a great time to be working with these materials! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- MRO
- This is an important abbreviation for any knifemaker, metals or arts studio, or machine shop. The abbreviation is for Maintenance,
					Repair, and Operations. This is a critical factor of this trade, and one that makers rarely discuss with clients, but frequently discuss
					amongst one another. The suppliers of MRO equipment, supplies, expendables, and materials are critical to 
					successful knife making, and so
					are the skills and abilities for maintenance and repair. This is the background of knife making that few clients are aware of. I hope to 
					change all that in these pages and in my book! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- MTV
- Nope, not the musical television channel. This is the acronym for Modular Tactical Vest armor system, 
					a modern protective and tactical wear system used by the military. Like the 
					IOTV above, it uses the 
					PALS webbing system for carrying gear, including tactical knives like mine, which can attach with the 
					mechanical belt loop fasteners I use. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- N
- NACE
- This is the abbreviation for the National Association of Corrosion Engineers. One might wonder why a custom knifemaker would be interested
					in this particular organization. This is because most modern handmade knives, particularly chef's knives and knives that will see service in wet or 
					marine environments, need to have highly corrosion resistant metal components. This is a new clarification in knives; in the old days, all knives were
					made of carbon steel and would rust. Not so today, and the use of refractory metals, aluminum, and highly corrosion resistant materials is
					paramount to good custom and handmade knife design and use. The NACE is a great source of technical information for these materials and 
					their reaction with their environments and exposures.  
					Alphabet Links
					
- nominal
- This means "in name only." The word has a place in knifemaking, in machining, in leather work, and in carpentry, so that's why
					I thought it's important to include it here. In knives, for instance, when referring to the thickness of the blade as nominally 1/4", this means
					that the blade is approximately .250" thick. While I give more exact measurements than that, the foundry that supplies the 
					bar stock or billets of
					tool steel will not, simply listing the metal as 1/4". It is usually thicker than that in rough stock; they know you'll machine the surface
					down and can achieve exactly .250" from what they nominally supply as 1/4". In leather work, the thickness is measured in ounces (see link) and 
					this, too is a nominal measurement, as tooling, compression, and variation of leathers will change that somewhat. In carpentry, all stock is referred 
					nominally, when purchasing from a supplier. So 1" stock can only be used to make 3/4" thick finished lumber, and lumber is also measured in "quarters," 
					which are quarter-inch graduations of sizes. So if wood is listed in rough as "five-quarter" thick, this means that it is nominally over 1.250" thick,
					but should be able to produce finished pieces of one-inch thick. Not always so; but this is the way board-foot measure has been for centuries and is 
					likely to continue such! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- normalizing
- A treatment in lower alloy steels to relieve stresses caused by 
					machining and forging, involving heating the steel to its 
					austenitizing temperature or somewhat below, and then letting cool 
					in room air or by a fairly fast rate. This cannot be used in high 
					alloy martensitic stainless hypereutectoid steels, because they will 
					quench and harden, but is typically performed in lower alloy 
					or hand-forged blades. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- O
- openwork
- This is found in older or museum texts describing the open areas of a blade. This is done to lighten the blade, particularly large and bulky 
					blades like axes, club heads, and halberds. The difference between openwork and 
					piercework is that openwork is typically done when the blade
					is forged or formed, usually during the construction of the blade, where piercework happens afterward with cutting tools. So, openwork is seen as 
					hammer-forged or in cast or constructed blades, where piercework is done by removal of the uniform stock of the blade. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- orange peel
- In the world of fine and handmade custom knives, orange peel does not refer to the citrus fruit, but is the 
					appearance of the grain in the polished structure of most D2 tool steel. D2 is an extremely high carbon and fairly high 
					chromium die steel, and is classified as a Cold Work Tool Steel. Most versions of this steel will exhibit a characteristic
					granularity in the polished surface that has a pattern that looks like the surface of an orange peel. Some people have used
					this appearance to specifically identify D2, but this can be a huge mistake. Not all D2 has the orange peel granularity,
					because some manufacturers sell a version that has an increased 
					sulfur content, which increases the machinability, and
					improves the surface finish. Incidentally, even the most corrosion resistant stainless tool steels can be discolored or even 
					pitted when exposed to real orange peels and orange juice for a length of time! For much more about D2 and orange peel surface
					appearance, 
				here's an important link explaining it in detail on my "D2" page.
					Alphabet Links 
			
					
- oven
- Simply defined as a chamber for baking, heating, and drying. This is a fairly generalized word in our language, and in older dictionaries, an oven and a furnace may be
					identified as the same. However, in current industrial language, an oven is considered to function below 1000°F, and a furnace above 1000°F. This can be confusing
					since even some companies that make devices for heat treating (well above 1000°F call them "ovens." I suppose a device that is used below 1000°F can be called
					an oven, but as soon as you crank it up to over 1000°F, you can call the same device a 
					furnace.  
					Alphabet Links
- over-ground (blade)
- When the grind termination (plunge) extends through the 
					spine, and the spine of the blade is significantly thinned at the 
					grind termination, the blade is said to be overground. This 
					substantially weakens the blade at that area, and creates an area 
					highly prone to failure. Many poorly made factory knives, many  
					factory folding knives, and many custom knives are overground, and 
					this is controlled by matching the correctly sized contact wheel 
					with the blade width. Get a 
					detailed description of this blade grind factor with illustrations 
					and more information on my Blades page
					at this bookmark.
					Alphabet Links
					
- P
- palm handle
- Note: this is not a pommel! It refers to a 
					handle shape that accommodates just the palm of the hand: a short, 
					often rounded handle that does not extend out the heel of the hand, 
					but rests in the palm. This style is useful in many working knives, 
					and on field dressing and skinning knives where the entire hand may 
					be inserted into the animal when field dressing, and a large butt, 
					pommel, or rear bolster would add unnecessary length, weight, and be 
					in the way. My Trophy Game Set of knives all have palm handles. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- PALS (webbing and system)
- This is the acronym for the Pouch Attachment Ladder System that is used on a variety of military gear including
					the MOLLE rucksacks and modular tactical vests. For the knife world, the PALS webbing may be the place where the 
					tactical combat knife is attached. When I make sheaths to attach on the PALS webbing, I use bolt-on flat or belt 
					loop die formed 5052H32 corrosion resistant high strength aluminum straps, and if the knife is in a locking sheath
					it can be mounted in any orientation. Since the orientation of the webbing is horizontal, special adaptive gear may 
					be required if the combat knife sheath is to be mounted horizontally, unless it is built into the sheath. These 
					arrangements are only available in custom handmade knives, you won't get the customization you really need 
					from any knife factory! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- paracord
- This is the neologism created for "parachute cord." Technically, this is nylon kernmantle rope. The unusual word kernmantle is a German neologism
					of kern (core) and mantle (sheath). This perfectly describes paracord; it has a interior core that may be of several to many strands of rope that 
					give the cord its strength, and an outer sheath that protects the core from abrasion. Larger kernmantle ropes are used for climbing, on rigging on 
					sailing vessels, or substantial lifting, but with limitations. Since nylon has a great degree of stretching in high or shock loads, it's not typically used
					in extremely heavy rigging (like lifting bulk and raw materials) in this particular style of weave and stranding. In knives, paracord has a great use
					as a lanyard, but little else. This might sound shocking, since so many cheap and common knives are wrapped with this nylon cord to make the knife look
					"tactical" or (in the new terminology) "tacti-cool." This is often done because it's cheap and easy, and claims of having an extra bit of little rope
					might get one out of a "bind" in an emergency. I've long presented that wrapping any knife handle with rope or textiles is a bad idea; eventually it 
					will fail, it will snag, separate, curl, cut, burn, melt, tear and wear into failure. This can be 
				disastrous, as it will take over 1300 lbs. of force
					to break a typical cord used, so that means that the knife wearer has now bound himself to whatever the paracord is hung up on with 1300 lbs. of force, 
					while not intending for this to happen! Imagine being trapped and wanting to get away in a real tactical situation, a deadly or desperate rescue or combat
					environment, a law enforcement or survival situation complicated by a cord snagging, yanking on your knife while you try to use it or move. This is 
					a very bad idea. No professional knife user I've ever heard of has requested a cord handle of any kind; not Japanese silk, not paracord, not fine wires,
					lines, or strands of any kind. More about why paracord should be used for lanyards only and not in knife handles on
				this special section on my Military, 
					Combat, and Tactical Knives page. 
					Alphabet Links
- parry
- Originally from the Latin word parare, meaning prepare, parry means to ward off, stop, or turn 
					aside. In days of old, this could be an important function of the sword 
					fight. Guards can be built to parry blows and slices from an opponent's weapon, and large daggers were used 
					to also block while the sword delivered the serious business. This applies to modern combat knives usually 
					in the sense that they must be strong enough to parry a blow as well as inflict injury. Dig deep into the 
					limitations, problems, and solutions about real tactical combat knives on 
					this page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- passivating, passivate 
- Passivating refers to a special chemical treatment applied (in the case of my knives) to stainless steel to 
					make the surface as passive as possible, that is as corrosion resistant as possible. This is necessary for stainless steels
					that are exposed to highly corrosive environments such as prolonged salt water exposure and hazardous material emergency response
					exposures. Although austenitic stainless steels are extremely passive, they can be further treated to increase corrosion resistance. 
					More about this process and application 
					at this bookmark on my Tactical Knife Sheath Accessories page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- patina
- Classically, this is defined as a film formed on copper and bronze by long exposure to the elements or by chemical application of acids
					and reactionary agents. This is the traditional definition, and patinas on bronzes have been executed by patineurs since the bronze age, thousands of
					years ago. In knifemaking, this word is also used to describe a darkening of a surface of steel. To be clear, a darkened piece of steel is 
					surface corrosion, and cannot compare with the tenacious, tough, and durable patinas of a copper or bronze sculpture or work of art. Patinas on 
					steels are always on carbon (non-stainless) steels, since they easily react, darken, stain, and rust in the environment of everyday exposure. While
					a darkened patina may inhibit atmospheric moisture, direct exposure to water or other fluids (other than oils) can cause 
				serious rusting. Compare that
					to a bronze that has been exposed to the outside in all weather conditions for centuries, and you'll know the difference between a patina
					on bronze and a patina on steel, which is a light and impermanent surface discoloration. More about patinas on steels 
				at this bookmark on my "Chef's
					Knives" page.
				Alphabet Links
- poor man's patina
- This is the practice, mainly in knifemaking, of slathering mustard, coffee, or other acidic substances on the surface of carbon steels to 
				cause a darkening reaction of the surface. This appears as blotchy and irregular, and only inhibits 
				atmospheric moisture corrosion, which would
				cause immediate rust on a non-protected blade. This process of "pre-corroding" the knife blade is common when knifemakers are using the wrong
				steels, mainly for kitchen use. Steels that need this type of treatment do not meet Food Contact Safety requirements, and easily and readily 
				rust, independent of the poor man's patina applied to the surface. 				Alphabet Links
- patineur
- This is the name of "one who patinas." A French word for the person who 
				professionally applies patinas such as in bronze castings. Patinas
					 are a complicated chemical process, with surface preparation and layers of reaction that have to be understood by the chemist that applies 
					 them. These reactions may respond to heat applied by the control of the patineur, who must perform various tasks with and between layers, 
					 followed by top layers, hand-finishing, roughing, and sealing which stabilizes the patinaed surfaces. Most bronze foundries will let you know that the patineur is one of the most important people in the casting process.
				 Alphabet Links
- pattern (knife)
- The origin of the word pattern is in Middle English, from 
					patron, meaning father. Since we come from our father, it's easy to see
					why the pattern is the father of what it is used to create. Patterns are an artistic or mechanical 
					design; a form, shape, or outline designed as a model for making things. My actual patterns are
					drawings of the knife, fittings, accessories and even engraving, filework, carving, handles, and embellishment. In knifemaking,
					the patterns are essential in defining the knife shape, size, relationship, and geometry of the entire work. In my patterns, I 
					may also indicate general
					location of optional parts like bolsters, swages, grind lines, and lanyard holes. But the pattern is not the three-dimensional form,
					only the two-dimensional layout. I also have patterns for bolsters, guards, fittings, sheaths, stands and accessories. When people 
					look at my Patterns page, they are only seeing a portion of my patterns. What they actually see are photographs of 
					templates. 
					Patterns may be unique and copyrightable art forms, or they may be common shapes in the public 
					domain. I've created hundreds of patterns over my decades of making knives; you can see them all 
					here.
					Alphabet Links
					
- pearlite
- Pearlite is a layered structure of ferrite and cementite, formed 
					in steels by slow cooling. It is very tough, but not particularly 
					hard or wear resistant. More about 
					pearlite at 
					this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- PEW
- Acronym for Primary Edged Weapon. See definition below.
					Alphabet Links
					
- PID controller
- PID stands for proportional, integral, derivative, and this is 
					an industrial process controller that is programmed to high accuracy 
					with internal feedback capabilities. What this means is that the 
					controller is not simply a thermal switch, turning heating (or 
					cooling) on and off; it calculates or can be set up to work with the 
					individual application, controlling the rate, timing, error, 
					and expected heat loss (in the case of a heating application) to 
					anticipate the load, process, and needs of an individual device. 
					Without going into specifics, these controllers allow very accurate 
					temperature control, once set up and programmed for the specific 
					use. In the case of my tempering/drying ovens, variations of set 
					temperature create a narrow
					hysteresis band of 1°F. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- piercework
- Piercework is a neologism, from pierced work, a term often seen in older texts, used by antique arms experts. It describes the holes and
					decorative work through the blade, in effect piercing the blade to create a hole through it. This is curious because
					the modern term for putting a hole through a blade is drilling, and less often milling. This demonstrates that before 
					modern machining, holes were placed while the blade was still plastic, red hot, and soft, and they were pierced with a 
					spike or specialized tool. Now, many modern knives have 
					millwork. This is different than 
					openwork (above) which is done when the blade is forged, or being constructed, instead of by removing
					stock of the blade like piercework. Piercework of old was not just for decoration; it lightened the blade without sacrificing 
					strength. Some claim that the piercework in the finished blades used in battle was used to hold poisons: contaminated or bacteria-ridden materials that could
					cause a nasty or lethal infection (Shakespeare describes how Hamlet was killed by Laertes who has a poisoned sword blade, 
					a plot which backfires as he poisons himself with his own sword blade). Some scholars disagree that this 
					application 
					and delivery of poisons was actually accomplished, but since poisons were in use and their actions well-known, it is 
					possible the practice may have been valid. One of the reasons I think this was valid is because in many of these early pieces,
					the holes were very small (less than .250") and there aren't enough of them to lighten the steel bulk. 
					I'm not sure about bacterial contamination, because people in those ages knew 
					nothing of germs, such as in our modern interpretation and understanding. This one will be argued for a long time, unless someone 
					discovers a record of such knowledge. 
					Alphabet Links
- pins, bolster
- See rivets below. These are the pins used to 
					secure the bolsters to the knife tang. I drill my bolsters with zero 
					clearance pins through the tang and both bolster sides, and then 
					the pins are heavily peened for an extremely tight fit. They can only be 
					removed by grinding the bolster away, drilling the pins through the tang,
					then grinding off the other bolster. At least two pins should be 
					used through each bolster to prevent rotation, and on heavy knives 
					or knives with long bolsters, there may be as many as four. 
					Bolster pins should be as large as is practical without compromising 
					tang strength. On my small knives, they are usually .0938", on larger 
					knives .125", and on swords .250". The 
					pins should always be made of the same material as the bolster for a 
					nearly invisible union. More about
					bolsters on my Handles, Bolsters,
					and Guards page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- pins, handle
- The handle pins are the mechanical mounts used 
					to secure the handle scales to the full tang knife handle. They are 
					drilled through both handle scales and through the tang, usually 
					with zero clearance for a tight, permanent fit. Some makers use 
					decorative pin assemblies (see mosaic pins above) made of pins arrange and glued in a tube 
					or series of tubes for visual interest. Since this is a fairly 
					common practice, and not as mechanically stable, I stay away from it and opt for clean, light, 
					comfortably arranged pins that are small enough to show off the 
					handle material, and do not compromise tang strength or create 
					high stress areas in the handle material. On tactical 
					combat knives, I use heavier pins. All pins should be the same 
					material as the bolsters for visual continuity. Some finished 
					pin faces can be engraved for a classy touch. More 
					details on my Handles,
					Bolsters, and Guards page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- pintle
- Technically, this is a malapropism, the incorrect usage of a word by substituting a similar-sounding word with different meaning.
					I've seen this term used incorrectly on other professional knife makers' sites to define the
					pommel. The pommel is not a pintle! A pintle is a 
					rod or axle that another device spins or turns around, more clearly, 
					a pivot pin used in a hinge, rudder, chain, or hook. In our modern times, the term is used to describe 
					a pintle hitch, where the eye of a trailer's hitch is hooked on a secure pintle. The term these 
					guys are looking for is pommel, which is 
					defined below. Just as in the case of divot=detent, a similar 
					sounding word is mistakenly used. Heck, even the pivot of a folding 
					knife is not called a pintle, yet this would be a much closer 
					application of the word and its mechanics at its definition. Don't 
					use it; it's the wrong word! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- pivot
- This is the axis of rotation of a folding knife. It also describes the pin, rod, tube, or element that a folding
					knife rotates on. Pivots can be small or large, depending on the size and duty expected of a folding knife. Though
					they limit the overall strength of the blade to handle junction, good design of the pivot can anchor it in the bolster
					or frame of the folding knife, so shearing and rotation are reduced and strength is increased. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- plain carbon steel
- See mild steel above. 
				Alphabet Links
				
- plunge (grind)
- This term has been adapted to modern knife 
					making to describe the line that terminates the grind at the 
					ricasso. I'm guessing that is because in manufacturing, the blade 
					plunges into the grinder at this point. In handmade knives this is 
					probably more properly called the grind termination. But plunge has 
					stuck, so I use both terms. It is a very difficult area for any well 
					make knife, and only the best, most practiced knife makers have 
					clean, sweeping, and accurate plunges. Since this area is easy to 
					see in an flat profile photograph of a knife, the plunge can speak 
					volumes about a maker's skill. I believe plunges should be formed 
					with rounded, sweeping lines both for visual appeal and (more 
					importantly) strength. If a blade-to-handle junction is going to 
					fail, it will fail more easily with a squared-off, sharp angled 
					plunge line (grind termination) than a sweeping, gentle curve. But a curved plunge is 
					hard to construct and grind and be balanced and matched on both 
					sides, so many makers and all manufacturers are lacking here. Read 
					grind termination above. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- pocket knife
- A knife with a blade or blades folding into the handle to fit it for being carried in the pocket.
					This is actually an old definition, and not too many people use this definition nowadays. The reason is that the term
					pocket knife is being replaced by the term folding knife or 
					folder. The reason is that knives are actually carried
					in the pocket less and less. First, it's a matter of clothing. Some men don't even carry a wallet; clothing styles and 
					fashion can dictate what is comfortable to carry. Also, most localities prohibit the carrying of any concealed weapons,
					and (in our state) any knife with a blade capable of any injury is considered a concealed weapon if carried out of sight.
					Modern utility knives that fold often have belt or boot clips on their exterior and can not be comfortably carried
					in the pocket. Modern collector's folding knives are rarely carried at all, residing instead in collections. The term
					pocket knife  will continue for a while, until pockets are eliminated 
					altogether surrendering to head's-up displays in the
					ocular implant that mounts in the temple of the skull of the modern techno-savvy hominid. Besides, a folding knife would 
					create an embarrassing bulge in our meggings and 
				mantights. Ahem.
					Alphabet Links
					
- point
- This refers to the distal front end of the 
					knife blade, and more specifically the general shape of the blade. A 
					knife may be a spear point, 
					trailing point, or 
					drop point in shape as well as many others 
					described and illustrated above. The point is one of the main factors in determining the use and 
					design of the knife. The point is also the most easily broken area 
					of the knife, as great leverage can be applied on a small amount of 
					metal there. The geometry, thickness, temper, and design of the 
					point should all be carefully controlled by the maker. The most used 
					area of any knife blade is the first two inches, so the point is 
					critical. See also tip below. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- pommel
- Directly translated from Latin (pomum), 
					this means apple. Translated from French (paumelle) this 
					means the palm of the hand, which is where the pommel may rest. On a knife, dagger, or sword, it is 
					an ornamental globular ball that terminates the handle at the end. 
					On modern knives, it is the tapped and threaded component that mechanically secures 
					the handle to the threaded tang or rod in a hidden tang knife. Can a 
					pommel have a hawk's bill or rear quillon? In modern knives, it 
					can. But if the knife is a full tang model with a rear bolster, the 
					word pommel is an improper description for the butt and rear 
					bolster. Simply put, there is no pommel on a full tang knife or folding knife,
					only a hidden tang knife, dagger, or sword. On some maker's and manufacturer's sites, they will
					describe a full tang knife with an extended and pointed tang as having a skull crusher pommel. This 
					is just ignorant. This is actually a skull crusher (or talon) on the butt of a full tang, 
					but it is not a pommel. I've seen it posted on web sites under pommel definitions 
					that a pommel of some knives can be used to hammer in tent 
					stakes.... what? A hidden tang knife that has a threaded-on pommel 
					is already a weaker design; the only metal supporting the pommel is 
					the threaded screw that extends inside the handle. Try this, and 
					your knife may easily break. Would you hammer in a tent peg with a 
					1/4" to 3/8" machine screw with a small ball on the end? Of course 
					not. So if you need a hammer, go get one, don't use a knife as a 
					hammer! It's simple really to remember; a pommel is an apple with a stem. If it's on the end of 
					a hidden tang knife, sword, or dagger, and it's used to secure the handle, it's a pommel.
					Alphabet Links
					
- pontil
- Another misused term! Technically, this is a malapropism, 
					the incorrect usage of a word by substituting a similar-sounding 
					word with different meaning. A pontil is not, nor has ever been a part of any 
					knife. I've seen this term used by well-known and established knife 
					makers to describe a pommel. Just like the word pintle above, the 
					knife maker using this has probably remembered the wrong word, and 
					then habitually used it until it sounds like the correct word to him 
					and the people he speaks (or writes) to. No one, evidently, has ever 
					bothered to correct him; after all, he is the maker, right? Boy, they will jump on me if I use the wrong word on 
					my website, or (God forbid) forget to use an apostrophe! The word pontil is a fairly recent
					word (c. 1830), and it defines an iron pointed rod used to help 
					manipulate glass in glass blowing technique. It originates from the the Latin word punctus, or a 
					punty, meaning a pointed rod. So maybe a maker might use this to describe the narrow pointed hidden tang
					that runs through the hidden tang knife handle (see hidden tang above), simply because it's a pointed
					rod. But this is called a tang. Using the word pontil to describe the pommel is simply 
					ignorant. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- poor man's patina
- See patina, poor man's above.
					Alphabet Links
- precipitation
- Described chemically, precipitation is when a solid is formed out of a solution. In steel phase transformation, precipitation occurs as a 
					substance (usually carbide) is produced from a solution. For example, in tempering, the solid solution of carbide particles are formed from the atoms of carbon
					that are in the solution of the martensitic structure that are not part of martensite's particular crystalline lattice. The atoms of chromium, iron,
					molybdenum, and other alloy elements combine with the carbon and precipitate into carbide molecules and crystals. Carbon, when "in solution" is not attached to
					these other elements, so, even though it's actually a solid carbon atom, it is still considered "in solution" until it bonds to form carbides or other materials.
					Alphabet Links
- precision (ground)
- This is a term used to describe steel billets, bar, sheet, or plate thickness and surface. Precision ground stock is ground 
					to an accurate thickness, whereas rough stock is usually overly thick to allow for the machinist to control the ultimate thickness to his needs. Precision
					ground stock is usually more expensive than plain bar stock, in order to pay for the process of surface grinding. In my studio, all of our 
					knives are precision ground in-house, offhand, on a specially modified surface grinder. This creates superior finishes, flat and accurate tolerances, 
					and a better overall knife.
					Alphabet Links
					
- press stud
- This is the British term for what we call a snap or dot snap. They describe the action, we describe the sound, I suppose. See "snap" below.
					Alphabet Links
					
- Primary Edged Weapon (PEW)
- This is the description of a real combat tactical knife. While there are many knives that 
					claim to be tactical, few are worthy of relying upon when it comes to Close Quarters Combat and 
					Close Quarters Battle. A primary edged weapon is first, a weapon, and secondly, a tool. PEWs have very 
					aggressive geometry profiles made for stabbing, thrusting, and slashing; the blades are 
					thin at the cutting edge and thick and substantial at the spine, ricasso, and handle to support 
					intense pressures and stresses of combat. 
					As with all my combat knives, Primary Edged Weapons are for the professional in military, law enforcement,
					federal or state service, or CSAR (Combat Search and Rescue). Learn more about these specialized
					knives on a 
					dedicated page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- profile
- From the Italian word profilo, meaning to draw in profile, this means the same in the knife world.
					The profile of the knife, sword, or dagger is the predominate outer shape, typically drawn when 
					designing a knife and is sometimes referred to as the contour, but there are some distinctions (see
					contour above). Knives are usually and first photographed in profile, and the patterns are show in profile. The 
					verb profile loosely means to cut, forge, or shape the knife to the 
					dimensions exhibited in the profiled pattern or drawing. Here are some 
					profiled knives. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- provenance
- The chronology and ownership of an item, particularly and specifically, the origin and source. This is important in knives, as the value,
					performance, and even the materials are often carried with the 
					provenance of the knife. It's not enough to know the maker; other critical 
					information such as the materials and hardness need to accompany the knife for as long as it exists. It's important to know if the work is 
					a sole authorship piece or the work of several artists and craftsmen, as well as the history of ownership and the maker's career practice. 
					In my knives, I keep a detailed catalog of works, and each knife has an engraved acrylic plate detailing the materials and other critical 
					information, which, with simple care, should last as long as the knife. Other makers may use paper documents and certificates, but 
					their usefulness and longevity is questionable. This is why information, such as provided on this website that is regularly recorded in the Library
					of Congress in copyrighted form is also important. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- Q
- quench
- To cool suddenly. In knife blades, this forces transformation of 
					austenite to martensite, and precipitation of carbides, the basis for hardening steel. Quench 
					types, mediums, rates, and temperatures differ depending on the 
					steel type and alloy undergoing quenching. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- quillon (or quillion)
- In the very old days, this term referred to the arms or extensions in a crossguard that protruded 
					farthest from the axis of the sword or dagger. In modern knives, 
					this also refers to the projections that keep the hand from sliding 
					forward onto the cutting edge, or backwards off the butt of the knife handle. So 
					a modern knife may have a front quillon or quillons, and rear 
					quillon or quillons. The use of this word has been adapted to modern 
					knives probably for lack of a better term to define those 
					protuberances. By the way, the word is properly pronounced:
					"key-own." But for fun, I frequently violate pronunciation, in an effort 
					to be a rude westerner... and call it a "quill-yun." It seems the word has evolved 
					from the quill of a bird's feather, so one would think you would 
					pronounce it like that, but the word is French. Does that mean that 
					the French of old wrote with key pens and birds have keys at the base 
					of their feathers? Ah, yes... er... we-we. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- R
- rabbet (rabbeted) tang
- Also called a push tang (old). The 
					word rabbet comes from old French and means beating down. This 
					may refer to the way a tang was beaten down on an anvil during 
					forging to reduce the shape to a tang. The rabbeted tang is a knife tang that is 
					terminated somewhere in the handle; the tang that does not fully 
					extend to the pommel or butt of the handle. On fine handmade custom 
					knives, this may be necessary when using unusual handle 
					arrangements and materials, such as a stag crown, where a large tang is desired, 
					but the maker wishes to preserve the natural shape of the crown. It 
					can be secured mechanically with pins, and sometimes by internal 
					geometry which makes an adhesive bond permanent and mechanical. On 
					factory knives, its often a cheap way to mount a handle, as the 
					hidden part of the rabbet does not have to be finished, saving 
					expense, and it is short and small, which saves on steel, and is not 
					threaded or mounted, which saves on expense and finishing. Often, 
					gummy, soft, or rubbery handle materials are mounted by being fused 
					to a rabbeted tang, and because they flex, their durability is 
					limited. Aside from a folding knife, this is the weakest blade 
					to handle design. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- radius, radiused, radiusing
- An interesting group of words indeed. In high school geometry, we learned that the radius
					is the line (and distance) from the center of a circle to the outer circumference, exactly half
					of the diameter. But in the machining world of metalwork, we use a variation of that definition
					meaning the circular area defined by the stated radius. So a concave radiusing cutter will
					cut a circular form defined by the depth of the cutter, which is the radius. Confusingly, it 
					also cuts the diameter of the circle in another dimension which is two times the radius...
					In the knife world, radiusing means shaping surfaces by rounding over the edges where two faces meet. 
					To be comfortable, a handle is radiused in fine knives, rounded over and finished, whereas the
					cheaply made factory knife is simply contoured (see above), or lightly dressed at the corners. Radiusing
					and finishing that radiused surface is difficult, time consuming, and takes considerable skill, as the
					contour of the surface can not be measured with any tool, and requires a trained eye and hand. Any misalignment, faceting, or unbalanced radiused contours can be usually seen by the naked eye. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- recalescence
- The property of losing energy without a drop in temperature 
					during cooling of the steel at equilibrium during phasic change. The 
					steel actually increases in temperature as the physical structure 
					changes and the steel attempts to reach entropy. More about 
					recalescence at 
					this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- reconstituted
- This curious word means literally: "to restore to the constitution of." Webster's early definition compares dehydrated vegetables
					being reconstituted after soaking in water. The root word constitute means to form or make. Unfortunately, this word has been hijacked and
					misused to describe imitations of actual materials. For instance, you may see a handle material called reconstituted dinosaur bone. 
					This is actually quite humorous, as the dinosaur bone can never be reformed to its original condition; that was gone millions of years ago. It will never be bone
					again, no matter what you claim. How about reconstituted turquoise? Well, turquoise is a mineral, a rock, and real turquoise never loses its form (its constitution),
					so this is incorrect. Humor aside, people who don't like to use the word imitation instead choose the word reconstituted.  This is simply
					an advertising ploy to claim an imitation is more than it is. Reconstituted dinosaur bone is actually polyester or acrylic. The same can be said for 
					reconstituted turquoise, reconstituted amber, or reconstituted lapis. None of these have any similarity other than color to the real thing; they are cheap
					plastic imitations. This type of description has gone on far too long in this tradecraft, where guys will argue about .02 percent of tungsten in the alloy, yet
					lie about a soft polyester handle by calling it reconstituted dinosaur bone. Don't fall for that! More tricks and deceptions about stone, fossils, and 
					their "enhanced" descriptions on my Gemstone Knife Handles page at this 
					bookmark.
					Alphabet Links
					
- reconstructed
- You'll see this word used to describe stone... incorrectly, of course. A reconstructed stone would perhaps be one that has been crushed,
					and then reconstructed using a binder such as cement, glass, or some fusion process to remake it into a near 
					stone-like substance. Where is this word used in the
					modern knife business? Why when referring to plastic, of course. Polyester or acrylic is dyed in an attempt to mimic the color of gemstone, and 
					suppliers often call this reconstructed stone, which is just ridiculous. This is dyed plastic, and nothing else, and the person who calls it 
					reconstructed stone is hoping that you're ignorant enough to think it's somehow of comparable value to real gemstone. You may see it called 
					composite reconstructed stone, or reconstituted stone or any of the other misleading fabricated terms to help define this as anything else but plastic. This is 
					not a simple brand name mistake like calling phenolic Micarta®
					or calling facial tissue Kleenex. This is a blatant lie. Any knife that has this on 
					a handle is a bad investment. Read more about this abhorrent misrepresentation on a special section on my Gemstone Knife Handles page 
					at 
					this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- recurve (recurved) blade
- The recurve is a blade shape that is defined 
					as bent in an opposite, backwards, or unusual direction. In today's 
					knives, this usually means that the blade is curved downward, away 
					from the ricasso, or swept forward like a
					
					khukri, with a downward concave curve near the handle. Models of 
					mine that also have recurved blades are the
					
					Hooded Warrior, the
					Magnum, and 
					
					Horrocks.  Recurved blades can be difficult to sharpen, but have 
					definite advantages. Read more on my
					
					Khukri page, and on my 
					
					Blades page. Deeply hollow ground recurve blades are some of the hardest to grind and finish well, and can 
					be incredibly sharp at the cutting edge at the inside curve. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- relief, relief face
- This is the ground angle (face) created before the cutting edge. The edges of knives must be relieved, that is, 
					material is removed at a low angle to the stone or sharpening 
					instrument so that a precise, accurate and thin cutting edge face can be 
					applied (usually at a slightly higher angle to the centerline of the blade thickness). The relief face is most 
					visible as a small scoured or ground face extending along the cutting edge 
					of the knife. The actual cutting edge face (above) is extremely small, barely 
					visible to the naked eye. I talk about the cutting edge 
					in depth on my Blades page. Nowadays, sloppy linguists call this area primary bevel, secondary bevel, or tertiary bevel
					or other such confusing gobbledygook. I use the terminology established by John Juranitch, who wrote the 
					definitive and clearly simple book on the cutting edge, an invaluable source of plain talk and myth busting
					clarity on the matter. Trying to make the cutting edge complex is going to destroy it, and trying to confuse
					makers and owners with bevel talk does our industry no good (uh, which is the secondary? And since it's done first, why 
					is it secondary?...I'm lost!) There is a relief, and there is an edge, and that's
					it! That's why the word bevel should not be used in any knife conversation!
					Alphabet Links
					
- ricasso
- This is another term that has 
					changed over the centuries. Originally, the Italians meant for it to 
					describe the part of the blade of a dueling rapier between the cup 
					guard and the quillons, which was also called the heel. Nowadays, we 
					use the term to describe the thick, non-ground portion of the blade 
					between the grinds and the guard or bolsters. In some web-based 
					definitions, it's stated that the ricasso is where the tang stamps 
					are usually located. This may be true in older, historic pieces, but 
					with modern marking methods, a maker's mark or identifier may be 
					located anywhere. See my page on
					 maker's 
					marks. In modern knives, it's often a good idea to keep the 
					ricasso as small as is possible, because it offers no cutting edge 
					or purpose (other than increasing overall length), and its length 
					is added to the cutting edge length for legal descriptions of blade 
					length, even though it can't cut! So the length of a knife blade in 
					most states is from the point to the guard or front bolster face, 
					and that includes the ricasso. I guess they figure that's how much 
					of the blade can be shoved into someone, since all knives are evil 
					weapons, and never useful tools or investment grade works of art... 
					Alphabet Links
					
- rivets (knife handles)
- Interesting word. From Old French (river), 
					meaning to make fast and tie off to shore. Rivets are shanks of 
					(usually) metal, sometimes formed with heads, that are used in 
					knives to secure the handle scales to the tang, or the bolsters to 
					the tang (see pins, bolster above). They are passed through holes in the tang and handle 
					scales, then peened, the metal spread out, tightly pulling the 
					materials together. I don't usually refer to bolster pins as 
					rivets, because they do not have a preformed head on them. In my own 
					work, I do not use rivets to secure handle materials, ever. The 
					reason is that a rivet must be peened and spread, both at the heads 
					and through the shank, which imposes internal stresses on the handle 
					material, shortening the life of it, possibly leading to cracks, 
					splits, checks, and unnecessary strain on the handle material. This can lead 
					to failure of the handle. You'll see rivets used a lot in cheap 
					factory knives, because it is a cheap and fast way to stick a piece 
					of handle material to a blade tang. Alphabet Links
					
- rivets (sheaths)
- Just like the rivets in handles above, these are shanks 
					of metal that have a head or heads and are pressed and peened 
					through a hole in the material. You'll see rivets and eyelets used 
					on kydex sheaths a lot in this industry, and I believe it's a bad 
					practice. The stresses from pressure, peening, and spreading metal 
					in a thermoforming plastic will ultimately lead to failure around 
					the thinnest portion of the kydex, right on the outside of the rivet 
					or eyelet. These type of plastics change dramatically with 
					temperature and environment, and they flex somewhat, so it's best to 
					avoid rivets if possible. In leather, they can work well, but 
					careful consideration must be applied here, as leather reacts with 
					most metals, particularly when damp, and leads to corrosion around 
					the hole, staining the leather and weakening the rivet. I won't say 
					that I never use this method of mechanical fastening in sheaths, but 
					I try to limit the practice. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- RMA
- This is the abbreviation for the Refractory Metals Association. This is a trade association of the Metal Powder Industries
					Federation (see above). For knifemakers, the RMA is a great source of information on metals like chromium and titanium, used 
					extensively in fine handmade and custom knives. They also furnish great information on alloy metals used in knife blades and 
					modern machine shop cutting tools, namely tungsten, molybdenum, vanadium, and cobalt. While I've never used any yttrium in 
					my fine knives, perhaps one day it too will be a mainstay of fine knives! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- roll (edge)
- This is a term that should never be used to describe any knife, much less any
					fine handmade or custom knife! Rolling of the edge or edge roll describes what happens if
					a knife blade is improperly hardened or tempered, of an inferior steel, or for any reason 
					too soft at the cutting edge. When the soft edge encounters hard materials, it literally folds
					over in a microscopic way, and you can even feel the cutting edge rolled to one side of the blade.
					No properly made knife should ever do this; I've always lived by the axiom that a blade should be 
					just hard enough to, when stressed to its absolute limits, start to bend and then fracture. This 
					assures that the knife is of maximum hardness for the toughness desired. Only cheap or badly made
					knives roll at the edge. More on the 
					hardness-toughness relationship on my blades page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- rolled edge
- Strangely, this is not describing the edge roll above! I've seen this term used by knife makers and 
					factories to describe a convex cutting edge. Instead of having crisp, clear, and accurate relief faces
					or edge faces, the edge is rolled around on a power abrasive, often an abrasive slack belt, to apply 
					a quick cutting edge to get the knife out the door. This is poor workmanship, and is definitively not 
					as sharp as a bi-faced or single faced edge and relief. It is simply an edge that is created in haste, 
					without skill. You'll see all sorts of claims that it is stronger, more durable, or sharper, but these
					are not true. What has been proven time and again to be the sharpest, most durable, highest longevity
					and most serviceable cutting edge geometry? Learn more than you'll ever want to know by purchasing 
					The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranitch. This is the 
					definitive guide, written 
					by a guy who professionally sharpened knives for industry and other professionals for decades. If you are 
					reading this, you need to have this book in your library! Link on my 
					links page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- S
- SAE
- Society of Automotive Engineers. While this was established as an automotive-based organization in 1905, this is now the
					SAE International, a U.S.-based, globally active 
					professional association and standards organization for engineering professionals in various industries. In knifemaking,
					SAE standards are applied to steel and other material types, properties, alloys, and related performance data that the SAE
					has established over the century of their existence. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- SAE/AMS
- See AMS above.
				Alphabet Links
				
- safe queen
- In custom gun and knife circles, it refers to 
					a gun or knife that resides untouched in a safe, a collector's 
					prized piece that dominates all others in 
					appearance (and sometimes delicacy). Guys will sometimes refer to a knife
					as a safe queen in a derogatory manner, hinting that it's just too 
					beautiful to use. This argument is discussed on my Frequently Asked Questions 
					page at the topic, 
					"What if I tell you it's too 
					pretty to use?" 
					Alphabet Links
					
- sandwich (sheath)
- See layered (sheath) above. 
				Alphabet Links
				
- scale, handle
- The handle scales are the pieces of handle material that are mounted to the sides of full 
					tang knives. Sometimes the term slabs (below) is used, but that 
					is a clumsy, incorrect word, as a slab is by definition, overly thick and broken-off. The correct word by 
					definition, even in present and very old language dictionaries is scale: "cutlery: either of 
					the pieces fastened one on each side to the tang of the knife, weapon, etc. to form the handle." 
					Do not use the term slab, it is the wrong word.  Often, scales sit 
					between bolsters and are secured with pins, either hidden or 
					exposed, or screws. Handle scales may set the value of the knife, 
					and comprise a bewildering amount of materials in the modern knife. 
					They may be hardwood, 
					plastic, 
					manmade material, 
					horn, bone, 
					ivory, shell, and expensive 
					gemstone. More than just something to 
					look at, they are the material that is in contact with the human hand, so shaping,
					contouring, radiusing, forming, and finishing skills are well applied here. Handle scales should
					be durable enough to maintain their shape, and of substantial colorfastness and low reactivity,
					as they will be exposed to the acid, moisture, and contaminants that the human hand can carry as well
					as potentially heavy forces that it can apply. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- schiller
- This property describes minerals, and is a bronze-like, 
					iridescent luster or play of resplendent
					colors. Typical gemstones that display a schiller are 
					Bronzite Hypersthene and
					Larvikite as well as
					any other feldspar.
					Alphabet Links
					
- secondary hardening
- an increase in the hardness of heat treated steel, 
					particularly in high alloy hypereutectoid steels with strong 
					carbide formers, that happens at a higher temperature range in the tempering cycle 
					due to fine carbide formation. This is most useful on tools that 
					will encounter high temperatures and need to resist softening.				
					The disadvantages of secondary hardening are extreme loss of 
					corrosion resistance, and loss of toughness.				
					Alphabet Links
- semi-production knives
- This is not a knife made for guys who build Kenworths. This is a term used to describe boutique shop
					knives (above). In fact, it's another term for the very same thing. It describes a small knife manufacturer
					or business, usually started by an individual
					maker who has decided to go into volume production using his name only, even though the knives
					are created by several to several dozen other men, and often consist of parts that are farmed out
					to foreign companies. The knife bearing the maker's name is actually a 
					knife produced in a small factory, and is subject to the factory or manufacturer's mindset. The 
					business goal of any factory is to offer a product that is made as cheaply as possible, while charging
					as much as possible, paying as little as possible for labor, but charging less than a competitor. 
					So the knife becomes a less than quality item, as features, materials, and workmanship are whittled 
					away in the name of cost-based analysis. In this trade, I call this bean counter process 
					lowballing. This means cutting labor and expenses while hyping styles,
					vague aspects of materials, or using heavy advertising promotions to push a product that is simple and cheap. 
					These knives are frequently made to the same general standards of imported factory knives, but the maker's name
					on the knife is heavily hyped so that a greater price is usually asked. You can probably name several right
					off the top of your head, and then swear they're the best knives ever. 
					Congratulations, if you can do this, you are a victim of advertising hyperbole! Learn much more about this 
					advertising ploy at 
					this topic on my Business of Knifemaking page.
					Alphabet Links
					
- SERE
- Acronym for Survival, Evasion, Resistance, and Escape, the term that describes specifically the 
					survival training for the United States Air Force. Other branches of the military all have their individual
					types of this generalized training for military and combat survival. USAF SERE is closely involved with 
					the USAF Pararescue, as the survival and escape skills particularly apply to Pararescue in their dangerous
					missions. That is why many of my knives cross over between PJ and SERE use and applications. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- shackle breaker
- A specialized slot or tool with the slot used to lock onto 
					the sides of stubborn shackles on sailing vessels and in rigging 
					in order to break them loose for unthreading. In 
					a way, it's a small, variable wrench. See marlinspike above. 
					Here's a specialized 
					shackle breaker 
					named Seahawk with my sailor's knife
					Mariner. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- sheath knife
- An older term, referring to a fixed blade 
					knife that is carried in a sheath. Is a pocket knife or folding 
					knife that is carried in a belt sheath a sheath knife? 
					Hmmm.... kind of general and non-specific term that should be left 
					to history. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- shop
- From Middle English and Anglo-Saxon shoppe and schoppe, this is an artisan's place of manufacture and sales. While this is very 
					similar to studio (below), the difference is in that the emphasis in 
					studio is 
					study, a place of learning, whereas in shop, the 
					emphasis is on production. Since we do both here (learn and produce), I use both words 
					and they are both appropriate. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- shoulder
- In a hidden tang knife, dagger, or sword, the 
					shoulder is the area where the face of the guard rests against the 
					ricasso. See Knife Anatomy 10 
					above. This term is very ancient, dating back to early swords. The 
					shoulder is an important area with hidden tang knives, because if a 
					fracture between blade and handle is to occur, it will usually 
					happen at the shoulder unless the grind termination is abrupt and 
					weak, and then it will happen there. The shoulder supports the 
					pressure applied from the pommel and through the handle material, 
					solidifying the handle-blade junction. Please, do not refer to the 
					grind termination as a shoulder! See why in 
					grind termination above. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- sinew
- This is a tendon, hopefully from an animal, used as a cord or thread. In older and early knives, these were used
					as binders for securing knife blades to handles, whether the blades were stone or metal, and used as the material 
					to lace sheaths together. Fine, modern handmade knives do not use sinew, but cords are often made to resemble this. In 
					my sheaths, I use artificial sinew, made of many fine threads of polyester, to stitch sheaths together. The polyester is
					much stronger, more durable, and longer lasting than actual sinew, but retains some of that traditional appeal and association
					with knife sheaths.
					Alphabet Links
					
- single bevel cutting edge
- This is not the single side grind (or single side bevel) of Japanese knives described below! 
					The single bevel cutting edge describes what is also known as the 
					edge face. defined above. Instead of
					first relieving the cutting edge to remove metal, thin, define, and align the area that will become 
					the cutting edge when the edge is sharpened, this single bevel on both sides of the blade becomes 
					the final edge. Because it is not a double bevel edge (described above) and does not use the 
					Juranitch
					method of first establishing a relief face and then the edge at two angles, the single bevel cutting 
					edge is absolutely the sharpest cutting edge possible. Unfortunately, few knife users can accurately 
					apply this kind of edge, so when they sharpen, they modify it to a double bevel edge by lifting the 
					spine of the knife higher above the stone, increasing the angle, and sharpening the edge face. The 
					single bevel edge takes more time to reapply when sharpening, as it has a wider face and requires more 
					metal to be removed. On some of my knives, I create a single bevel cutting edge because they are 
					markedly sharper, and the client can easily convert to double bevel when he sharpens.
					Alphabet Links
					
- single side grind (bevel)
- This term describes the common and typical Japanese knife grind (or bevel). 
					Instead of accurately and carefully grinding both sides of the knife blade to produce a centered, uniform, and
					regular thinness in the blade, the Japanese style knives have only one side ground, and the other side is left
					flat. There is a lot of hype and unjustified claims about how this leads to a sharper blade, and this is a
					very clever advertising ploy to claim some superiority by making a cheaper, inferior product, which is a 
					common practice in the mass-manufacturing and marketing industry. Grinding the knife blade on only one side 
					does not decrease the angle of the relief or the cutting edge, it simply is a faster, cheaper way to grind a 
					thin knife and get it out the door with unskilled labor or automated machinery. Since only one side is ground, 
					there is no need to have skilled labor or devices to match both sides, and flat grinds are the most easily 
					automated. If you have any doubts that it requires highly skilled labor to produce a double side hollow grind
					in thin steel, I'll make this challenge to you: hollow grind a 1/16" (.0625" or .16 mm) blade from both sides,
					creating uniform, matched hollow grinds all the way to mirror finishing. This is beyond the scope of most 
					knife makers, so is light years beyond the scope of manufacturers. Don't get sold by the hype of mass marketing.
					The true sharpness of the blade at the cutting edge is determined considering all the included angles. For 
					example, a final edge of 10 degrees is the same sharpness whether the ten degrees comes from a flat side and
					one edge face, or from a hollow grind and two, three, or even four edge faces! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- skeleton, skeletonized
- This refers to the way a thick, full tang 
					handle is milled and made. Used on a full tang knife handle that has 
					no bolsters, handle scales, or mounted pieces, the blade is left 
					very thick and not tapered. I usually do this on at least .250" 
					thick stock. To reduce the handle weight and control handle to blade 
					balance, some of the handle material is milled, drilled, or carved 
					away, creating a skeleton of a handle, thus the name. Then, the 
					handle and blade are one singular piece, preserving strength, 
					eliminating differing materials and mounts, and creating a uniform 
					piece of steel from tip to butt. Skeletonized knives can be lighter 
					in weight, easier to clean, and less expensive. Their drawback? 
					Depending on the design, the overall thinner handles may be 
					uncomfortable to grip. Here is a group of 
					skeletonized knives made
					and carried by the 101st Airborne in combat in Iraq. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- skull crusher (talon, persuader, cat scratcher)
- Though this term is fairly graphic, and doesn't do our tradecraft 
					a lot of good in the realm of having knives accepted on their artistic and 
					creative merits only, it is a persistent term to describe an additional point
					or protuberance that extends beyond the normal profile of the butt of the handle.
					The point is used on defensive and combat weapons to inflict injury and 
					damage by striking with the butt of the knife, or persuading 
					an opponent along with the pressure of the point. I've added the 
					name talon (below) to describe the ripping potential of this adjunct to the 
					knife, and the term cat scratcher to 
					describe the scratches and scars that practicing tactical maneuvers with a knife
					with this feature will leave on the forearms of the knife user. The feature
					is effective in use, I've had several reports of combat knife use where the 
					talon has been used to apply force, and in doing so stopped the opponent without
					having to use the deadlier knife blade, point, and cutting edge in combat and
					defense. A couple great examples: a small talon in my 
					Anzu pattern, and a more 
					substantial talon in my Triton 
					Kerambit. Even the general shape of the knife
					butt may have persuading abilities as in my 
					Halius pattern. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- slabs (handle)
- This is an incorrect term for scales (above). The term slab is not a good term, as the definition of slab is 
					a comparatively thick plate of broken or cut off material. The origin of the word is Old French (esclape)
					and specifically means  a fragment or broken off piece. This is a 
					clumsy, lethargic word, best suited to 
					pieces of concrete and grave markers. A refined knife should not have slabs as a handle, they should have scales.
					In the dictionary, one of the specific definitions of scales is: "cutlery: either of the pieces fastened one 
					on each side to the tang of the knife, weapon, etc. to form the handle." Do not use the term slab, it is the wrong 
					word. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- slip (noun)
- I specified the word as a noun because I didn't want to talk about the verb—a slip of a knife is a dangerous thing, and sure to cause 
					damage, if not injury! Of course, it's not that simple, as a 
					slip (verb) can describe a slip (noun) because something slips in and slips out... of a slip!
					In our case, the slip is where the knife (or blade) slips into, in a sheath, block, or stand. It's the hollow area in a knife block that sits
					on a kitchen counter; it's the actual area of a knife sheath that accommodates the knife. In knifemaking, we talk a lot about the 
					sheath parts (welts, sides,
					fronts, backs, loops) but what do you all the negative space that the knife occupies? Why, the slip, of course!  There are a tremendous amount of 
					uses of the word slip, many verbs, lots of nouns, but in our case, the root comes from a berth, a place where a ship can "park" between piers. The word
					"pocket" is sometimes used, but a pocket can refer to an entire bag or something that conforms, whereas a slip is a dedicated receptacle. We could use
					the word "receptacle" but that's rather pretentious and somewhat... 
					electrical.
					Alphabet Links
					
- snap (dot snap)
- Typically used in sheaths or accessory components like straps, belt loop extenders, my sternum harnesses, and in dive knife
					mounts and accessories, the snap or dot snap is a mainstay fastener that offers a good mechanical retention of flexible components
					with a tactile and audible click, snap, or engagement. See the British term "press stud" above. The snap is so often seen and used that few people consider its importance. All 
					snaps are not the same; most are made of brass that is nickel plated for corrosion resistance and appearance, but the inside parts are still 
					brass. Once formed (or deformed) to mount it on the web, leather, or gear, the nickel plating does little to prevent corrosion in these critical
					areas. So the nickel plated brass snap is only used in dry conditions. For wet, marine, or weather exposures, an all-stainless steel snap must be 
					used, and few makers or companies consider this. In my tactical gear, I typically use all stainless components, including the dot snap, which is '
					marine grade. Most makers don't like to use marine grade snaps, they are hard, tough, and difficult to mount on gear; brass is so much easier. In 
					dive knives it's even important to 
					passivate the stainless to make sure corrosion resistance is at its highest in salt water. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- solder line
- In hidden tang knives, the guard or fittings 
					are often soldered to the knife tang to stabilize the joint and 
					prevent infiltration of moisture, corrosives, and fluids. The solder line 
					should be as thin as possible, clean, even, and finished, with no 
					pinholes, waviness, or irregularities. Low temperature solders are 
					usually used, so as not to affect or change the knife blade temper. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- sole authorship
- This term defines a knife or work of knife art as being completely made by the person whose name
					is on the knife, sword, dagger, or piece. Nowadays, many knife makers farm out (above) or 
					commission tasks and parts of the knife construction, finishing, and embellishment to other individuals 
					or companies. In a work of sole authorship, the singular maker has made all of the blade, done all of 
					the heat treating, made the fittings, handle, 
					stand, sheath, or case including construction, finishing, and embellishment, with no other hands in the work. 
					This adds tremendously to the 
					long term investment value of the artistic piece, because a singular mind and concept has created the entire piece
					and all of its components and accessories can be identified as the maker's. 
					Sole authorship occupies a very special place in the knife making world,
					as it is rare to find someone who does it all and knife making can consist of a wide variety of skill sets
					and expertise. Sole authorship knives then, usually have and maintain the highest
					value during and after the life of the individual knife maker. All we leave behind is our works and the memories! 
					Alphabet Links
					
- spacer material
- Usually used in the handle, spacer material 
					may be used for visual accent and style, and less typically to space 
					or adjust the mechanics of fitting the handle. The spacer material 
					may be any metal (copper, brass, nickel silver, or stainless steel) 
					and/or plastics and manmade materials. A popular and nicely colored 
					material that is frequently used is a vulcanized fish fiber 
					originally created as an electrical insulator. This is sold by knife 
					making supply companies. This is not a liner, a liner is a component 
					on a folding knife (see liner above). 
					Alphabet Links
					
- spacer (folding knife)
- The spacer on a folding knife is the component or arrangement that establishes clearance between the liners, scales,
					or handle sides so the blade can fold between them. Also called a 
					backspacer, or backspine, or spacer-spine, it is 
					sometimes made of pins, tubes or rods (spacer pins) to minimize weight. In early historical references, this was called a 
					center scale, but because the word scale nowadays defines the finished handle material, this can be confusing.
					So, most in the trade now call these components spacers because that is their primary function. 
					This critical component strengthens the handle, gives continuity
					to the entire handle assembly, and can be a canvas for artistic embellishment. Often, on my highly embellished folding knives,
					the spacer is finished inside and out, with accents like filework being visible only when looking deep into the handle. The spacer
					can anchor the liners or scales with machine screws, set and peened pins, soldered, or welded 
					attachment methods. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- spacer (knife block or stand)
- The spacer in a knife block, typical for chef's knives, is the material that is between the slips, or holes where the knives rest. The spacers can 
					be thin or thick, angled or straight, curved or square, carved or plain, in any materials. Usually, they are wood, since woods won't usually scratch
					or damage the blades. In manufactured or mass-produced blocks they are always made of soft, cheap woods. Spacers have to be thick enough to allow
					clearance between the knife handles, so the user can grasp the handle and remove it from the block or stand. 
					Alphabet Links
- specific gravity
- This is the ratio of the density of a substance when compared to the density of another, typically standard substance. In our case, that 
					standard is usually pure water. Where this is important
					in knifemaking is in determining weights of materials, typically handle materials since handle balance is very important to the feel of a 
					knife. An advanced concept in balancing a knife, for instance, is considering the S.G. (specific gravity) of a particular gemstone as a choice
					for a knife. An overly heavy rock with a high S.G. will mean a smaller handle or one that needs to be backmilled or mounted to a lighter tang
					for proper balance. A very lightweight (low S.G.) material, like Micarta® phenolic, means a larger, higher volume of the handle material can be 
					used for good balance. For example, jade has a S.G. of about 3, whereas Micarta phenolic has a S.G. of about 1.4, a substantial difference that 
					the knifemaker must accommodate for proper balance and feel of a knife.
					Alphabet Links
					
- spheroidized (spheroidizing)
- A treatment of steel to convert plate-like cementite into 
					spheroid cementite, resulting in extremely soft, malleable, ductile 
					condition of steel for ease in machining and working. This is done 
					by heating steel to a predetermined temperature, and cooling slowly 
					over many hours to allow equilibrium phase transformation to take 
					place. The exact time, temperatures, and rate depend on the steel 
					alloy type. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- spine, knife
- The term knife spine describes the entire spine of the knife, from the point 
					to the butt. Like the vertebrate, the knife spine supports the 
					whole animal. In a well made knife, it forms the strength of beam 
					that joins the handle to blade, and supports all energy transfer between the handle and the cutting edge as well as supporting the 
					butt. The knife spine is the thickest, heaviest part 
					of the knife and the thickest part of the spine should be at the 
					blade-handle junction, not in the handle area (see tapered tang 
					below). 
					Alphabet Links
					
- spine, blade
- You might wonder how the blade spine differs from the knife spine. When discussing the blade spine, this includes the area between
					the grind termination (plunge) and the lead-off. Spine strength in this area is critical, because if a blade is overground (definition below),
					the blade can bend or snap in the blade spine area.
					Alphabet Links
					
- spine, handle
- Just like the blade spine (above) the handle spine deserves special consideration. The handle spine must be able to transfer great forces
					of the hand into the blade, support the butt of the knife and rear fittings, and secure the handle material, bolsters and bedding, while limiting
					weight that is unnecessary. In a milled (weight reduced) handle spine, enough careful thought and planning should yield a lightweight, yet significantly
					strong spine despite the tapering of the tang necessary for weight reduction. In a hidden tang knife, the spine is the tang itself, and should be 
					large enough to support the forces of the handle applied to the blade. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- spine depression, spine sculpting
- The spine of a knife blade does not have to 
					be straight or uniform. It may have a curve inward toward the 
					cutting edge (called a spine depression) or it may sport full 
					sculpting with carving and embellishment. This is not just for show 
					or visual interest, the maker can control the overall weight of the 
					blade by carefully reducing spine areas in wide-bladed knives. He 
					usually does this knowing he must preserve enough mass in the spine 
					for significant blade strength. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- spinodal
- a decomposition mechanism describing rapid un-mixing of a mixture of liquids or solids from one thermodynamic phase, 
				to form two coexisting phases. As an example, consider a hot mixture of water and an oil separating.
				Alphabet Links
			
- square-fisted
- This is a martial arts term, and the way we who have studied Kenpo Karate understand reduces wrist injury. When a tight fist
					is made, the wrist naturally assumes a position "square" to the radius and ulna in the forearms. If you were to make a fist around a
					round rod, the position of the rod would be about 90 degrees to your forearm, thus 
					square. In this position, the wrist is 
					rigidly
					locked, and punches and impact can be delivered without jamming, or straining the complicated joints in the wrist. How does this apply
					to knives? If a knife is fairly straight bladed, and the blade must be pointed forward, the wrist will have to bend or lean forward
					to accommodate this. When it does, it is vulnerable to injury, as the wrist is not locked into position. All beginning martial artists
					know this well, as they jam their wrist if it is not locked while punching. On certain knives, the downward angle of the handle will 
					allow a square or near-square position of the wrist. This is a good 
					argument for gun handles, or downward sloped handles on knives
					that may see significant impact such as tactical survival knives with large blades.
				 	Alphabet Links
				 	
- stacked tang
- I first heard this term used by Don Norton, 
					back in the early 1980s. It is a hidden tang knife handle, with 
					sometimes numerous pieces of material shaped like doughnuts 
					stacked onto a knife tang that may have a core of welded or 
					brazed-on threaded rod. See Knife 
					Anatomy pictures 10-12 above. The pieces (handle materials, 
					wood, horn, bone, ivory, stone, spacer material, amber beads, etc.) 
					are arranged and stacked onto the tang, assembled with epoxy and 
					mechanically secured with a pommel. Then, the handle is ground to 
					shape, sanded, polished, and finished. Very nice looking handle. I 
					really should make more of those... 
					Alphabet Links
					
- stainless steel
- A steel containing a substantial amount of chromium, which adds 
					strength and inhibits corrosion. While in the United States of 
					America, we classify stainless steels as generally having more than 
					10% and up to 13% or more chromium, in Europe and other parts of the 
					world, they classify stainless steels specifically as having more 
					than 10.5% chromium. Since it has been convention in the past to 
					classify steels having as little as 4% chromium as stainless steels, 
					it can be very confusing to classify with only the simple 
					designation of "stainless." Therefore, it's best to describe 
					stainless steels by their grade (austenitic, ferritic, martensitic) 
					and by their trade name or SAE/AISI designation when describing 
					them. Simply identifying a steel as "stainless" does not accurately 
					identify the steel. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- steel
- A strong, hard metal made of iron and carbon with alloys of 
					other elements all included to produce specific effects and results 
					in the final use of the steel item. Plenty of information on my huge "Blades" page, and more that you probably want to know about modern knife 
					blade steels on my "Heat Treating and Cryogenic Processing of Knife Blade Steels" page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- stick tang
- Another term for a hidden tang or stacked 
					tang (above). So called because the tang looks like a stick without 
					the handle pieces or pommel mounted on it. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- stonewashed (blade)
- This describes a finish applied to a knife blade like you would a pair of mass-produced distressed canvas blue jeans.
					You use rocks. A tumbler helps, but you can abuse your wife's washing machine as well. The rocks beat the metal. They leave
					dents. They abrade. It looks flat and beaten. No one likes to mention that metals, particularly hardened and tempered tool 
					steels, are adversely affected by peening (which is beating) unless they are stress relieved, which would change the temper. So, stress
					relieving is not typically done after beating and abrading the surface. Done this way, peening tends to increase surface stresses and initiate cracks in metals
					and the effect is well known by metallurgists, engineers, scientists, and machinists. Even the silversmith and jeweler knows that after peening,
					the metal must be annealed to relieve any stresses. This can't compare with blasting which has microscopic impact and abrasion of the surface, this is
					beating with rocks (or sometimes a hammer!). If you are intent on a beaten (ahem, stonewashed) finish, make sure your knifemaker has hardened and 
					tempered the knife blade after the beating; chances are, he's done the reverse. This increased surface stress may not make much difference in 
					low alloy carbon steels, but in high performance metals it shouldn't be done. Why do guys do this to knife blades? Usually, it's because finishing
					is the most time consuming and difficult process for any metal project, so, just like factories, finish is not where they want to spend 
					their man-hours. It's fast, and it's cheap, which is okay for a cheap knife that you don't need to worry if the metal is surface stressed anyway!
					Alphabet Links
					
- stud, thumb stud
- The word stud is a very wide-ranging, old word that has origins in many languages. Anglo-Saxon, Swedish, Old Norse, German, Dutch,
					and Greek languages all have related words, so the actual origin is unclear. What do those original words that lead to our English word
					stud look like? studu, stöd, stoth, stythja, stut, stütze, and stylos. In knifemaking the main use of 
					the word is describing the small post, protrusion, rod, or fitting that is attached to the spine of a folding knife blade to aid
					in opening the blade with the thumb. It is not a 
					bob. I also use studs in my stone folding knife cases to align and retain the lids. A stud is simply 
					a projecting rod, knob or pin. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- studio
- This word originates in Italian, and comes from the word study. This is the working room of an artist in employment, which is 
					what I am, and what I do here. That is why my business is named Sharp Instinct Studio. While it has many rooms for many different
					disciplines, it is a learning, teaching environment that is continually evolving, growing, and changing. I am a student of the knifemaking arts,
					and there is always more to learn. I also teach my family members (three generations) in the art.
					Alphabet Links
					
- sub-hilt
- A term for a finger-separating protrusion, 
					usually made of metal that is within the handle area. In a hidden 
					tang knife, it may be a thick piece of guard material that is 
					located behind the forefinger in a traditional grip style, which 
					has been formed down to accommodate the fingers. This 
					allows greater security of grip, and pressure to be applied when 
					pulling the knife blade through material (like sawing). On full tang 
					knives, this is sometimes called a mid-bolster (above). Here's a 
					good example of a brass 
					sub-hilt on a Bowie knife. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- sub-microscopic
- Definition: too small to be seen by an ordinary light microscope. 
					In this context (knife steel) it means that a structure is too small 
					to be seen by an ordinary light microscope. This doesn't mean the 
					structure can't be seen (actually imaged) by a microscope that uses 
					other methods, such as a scanning electron microscope. The 
					sub-microscopic limit is about 1500X and the resolution of .2 
					micrometers. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- super steel
- There is, simply, no such thing. This type of term is 
					non-specific and a sales-directed descriptor, inserted to make one 
					think one steel is superior to others. Like steels with mystical, 
					generalized, or popular name created as business advertisers, this 
					has no place in the context of steel discussion, unless you are 
					discussing comic book characters Superman, Supergirl, Superboy, 
					Superdog... hey, were is Superwoman? How come it's Wonder Woman and 
					not Superwoman? Ahh, I get it: the wonders of women... 
					Alphabet Links
					
- swage
- Some clarification on this very troublesome word is necessary, as it seems that many are very confused about it.
					The source of the word is the French word souage, meaning an ornamental border. The original word swage 
					comes from the anvil or tool that was once used to create it at the forge, and 
					the term refers to a decorative edge. So a grooved swage would create a swage. You'll see similar words like
					swedge also used, but that word is an antiquated substitution and originates in the 
					Oxford (British) dictionary. See the language and dictionary reference 
					above to clarify this.  You might see the text swege but that is not even a word. 
					A swage is the top grind, 
					taper, or bevel in the spine, frequently near the tip of the blade 
					that is sometimes called a false edge.  Calling it decorative is 
					another bad interpretation of the purpose of a feature on a knife 
					blade. In the old days, swages (or false edges) were left thick at 
					the edge, so, naturally, it was assumed they were merely decorative, 
					to give the appearance of another cutting edge only. On modern 
					knives, many have a swage that is shaped or ground completely to the 
					edge; they actually form a thick but sharp and formidable cutting 
					edge. Why the confusion and assignment of this feature? Because many types of tools have swages or 
					swaged components, the use of the term can be bewildering. For instance, the tool used to spread 
					apart saw teeth for sharpening was a wedge and distinctly called a swage. This wedge shape may 
					well be why the knife blade feature was originally called a swage as it is a wedge shape. Note that
					also, a device used to straighten drill pipe for wells is a swage, and there is an important
					company who makes industrial hydraulic and pneumatic fittings called Swagelock® which uses a wedge-type
					design to prevent galling and secure high pressure fittings. Swaging in modern industrial practice is simlar 
					to drawing by die-forming, which is done in a wedge-profiled milled hole in a hardened die. Again, 
					you'll notice the wedge idea. I believe that, taken all together, these are the sources of the term and 
					assignment for this feature on a knife blade. 
					
 Why have a swage? The reason for the swage is not just decorative, it is most often to 
					reduce the point thickness and cross-sectional geometry without 
					removing too much material which would weaken the spine. This is usually done 
					in tactical and combat knives to reduce the combination of point 
					angles for greater penetration force on a smaller surface area at 
					the point, and has been known and understood by those who make combat and piercing weapons for thousands
					of years. Only recently has this feature been give a name "false" because knives as weapons
					are frequently misunderstood these days.
 A swage is usually flat ground or taper ground. If it is 
					hollow ground and sharpened, it becomes an additional cutting edge, 
					and the knife becomes double-edged. A swage is usually never 
					field-sharpened or honed because it is not used as a cutting edge would be, but exists only to reduce weight and 
					offer compound and sharper penetration geometry without sacrificing spine strength, whereas a cutting edge 
					has a grind, relief, and is sharpened and used up. There are many knives with swages on my 
					Tactical, Combat,
					and Military Knives page. 
					Alphabet Links
- swarf
- This is the fine metallic particles removed by a cutting or 
					grinding tool. Not to be confused with 
					turnings or borings, which are coarse cuttings from mills, drills, and similar tools. Swarf
					is the fine, gritty remains of what was once metal, sometimes mixed with abrasives 
					and lubricants, and the reason that
					full time knife makers should never have a full beard. How are they supposed to protect their lungs
					from swarf and abrasives if they can't fit a seal on a respirator? Okay, there are those face shield
					positive pressure blower hoods, but who can actually wear one of those? Safety lesson aside, this is
					an ancient term, from old Norse, to describe the remains of grinding on metal by stone. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- swarth
- The origin of this word is far reaching, including Middle English, Old High German, Anglo Saxon, Dutch, 
					Old Frisian, Old Saxon, Low German, Old Norse, Danish, Gothic, and Latin. That's a lot of history! The word is 
					derived from swart, which means of a dark color, black, or of gloomy, dark, dirty, or malignant in character. In knives, 
					it means stain of buffing compound, oxidation, or other darkened appearance that may be hard to remove. This does 
					not refer to bluing, which is purposely applied; this refers to 
					unwanted surface appearance. Amateur or homemade 
					works often have swarthy surfaces, embedded compound, or hints of a dirty 
					exterior. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- sworf
- A word I've seen actually in print by modern machine tool companies, this is swarf, 
					badly misspelled! See swarf.
					Alphabet Links
					
- T
- talon
- Also called a skull crusher or cat scratcher (above), the talon is usually located at the 
					butt of the knife handle. In my full tang knives, I like to actually extend the actual tang
					so that the talon is well supported and part of the spine of the knife handle. The talon is 
					not sharpened, and is used as a non-lethal method to persuade, guide, and control the enemy in combat tactical 
					operations and defense. Just a small amount of pressure from a talon can yield painful directive,
					without the potentially lethal piercing of the blade. Many of my military clients as well as 
					some law enforcement professionals are requesting this useful adjunct. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- tang
- The word is used so frequently in the talk of knives that I almost forgot to include it! The word 
					tang originates
					from the Middle English word tange which comes from the Old Norse word 
					tangi which means a projecting point, perhaps 
					referring to the English word for tongue. Okay, then why doesn't that mean the point of the blade? Because it is a 
					projecting point, which is like the tongue of a snake, or stinger of an insect. So in fixed blade knives, it refers to the metal
					piece that projects into the handle. This also refers to all the metal blade piece that the handle is mounted to. Tangs 
					may be full, tapered, hidden, partial, rabbeted, or threaded. Handles may be secured to the tang by pins, screws,
					pommels, adhesives, soldering, brazing, or welding. The tangs themselves may be highly embellished and may also comprise the 
					entire handle as in skeletonized handle tang forms. The tangs also importantly support the bolsters and fittings for
					the handles. A strong tang means a very strong handle to blade union. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- tang, full
- See full tang above.
					Alphabet Links
					
- taper (grind)
- You might hear or read of us older makers using this to describe a slightly convex grind of the knife blade. See 
				convex grind above
				for more details. While not profoundly convex (like an axe blade), the taper grind is used on knives that require a very robust chopping 
				geometry and great edge strength, knives that are extremely thin (less than 1/16") that would not support a hollow or flat grind, and knives
				that have unusual geometries (like karambits and sickles) that can not be ground in other geometries. 
				Alphabet Links
				
- taper (tang)
- On full tang knives (which are one solid piece of blade 
					steel from tip to butt), the tang is frequently tapered. This leads 
					to the thinnest portion of the tang at the butt of the handle. There 
					are several reasons for this. It helps with weight balance by 
					reducing the heavy stock in the handle. Also, it removes steel 
					thickness where it is not needed for strength (most of the strength 
					should remain in the spine). Additionally, it is an indicator of a 
					well made, and usually handmade knife. Only the finest knives have 
					tapered tangs, and the modern collector should expect tapered tangs 
					on all his full tang knives. To leave a tang at full thickness is a 
					sign of a lazy, inexperienced, or cheap knife. Filework (Embellishment 
					page) applied to a tapered tang can demonstrate and exhibit 
					great skill and care by the maker, greatly increasing the value of a 
					handmade or custom knife. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- template (knife)
- This word originates in the Latin word templum, meaning a small timber. The definition we use is
					a gauge, pattern, or mold, commonly a thin plate, board, or light frame used as a guide to the form of the work to be
					executed. In knifemaking, this most commonly refers to the 
					physical pattern used to scribe, mark, and 
					indicate the knife profile for cutting out or forging the blade. My templates are made of aluminum, acrylic, 
					Plexiglas, or fiberglass, and occasionally wood. You can see photos of my templates on my 
					Patterns page here; there are hundreds!
					Alphabet Links
					
- tested, tested sharp
- This phrase has been applied to knife blades and the earliest I've seen it described is on a Western States Daddy Barlow folding knife
					made before 1840. The Barlows were an English family of cutlers from the Sheffield region (thanks to 
					Levine's Guide to Knives, 1985). 
					Mark Twain immortalized Barlow knives in "Tom Sawyer." Evidently, the Barlow firm
					"tested" their blades, using their own means and methods, and were proud enough of this testing that they thought it would be a good idea
					to mark this on the blade of this large folding knife. The actual phrase was: "Tested Sharp Temper." So the idea of testing blades for 
					hardness
					and then identifying them as tested is very old. Nowadays, the 
					Barlow can refer to a particular style of folding knife, not the original. 
					I've also seen this used on modern Chinese made "reproduction" folding knives, curiously with
					distinctive American names. By the way, collecting this type of Chinese knife is for personal pleasure only; they will not appreciate in value 
					one cent. As Bernard Levine writes in the text mentioned above, "there is little potential for profit in collecting new regular production 
					factory made knives." Actual testing of hardness and sharpness should be done by every knifemaker, knife manufacturer, or boutique shop. In my 
					studio, knives are accurately tested for hardness with a hardness testing machine (not available in the early 19th century!), and the edges are tested 
					with the Juranitch testing method for sharpness. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- terminal(s)
- This is the word that means the part that forms terminates or forms the end of 
				something. In knives, this would be used 
					to describe the outermost tips of a guard, chape, or feature, which may be decorative, balled, truncated, angled, or embellished
					in some fashion. It does not describe, however, the tip of the blade, the pommel, or the butt of the knife handle. It's more 
					appropriately used to describe a fitting. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- termination (grind)
- See grind termination above. See plunge grind above. 
				Alphabet Links
				
- thumb rise (thumb ramp, thumb rest)
- This is the extended profile portion of the 
					knife usually along the spine that accommodates the thumb. This rise 
					helps the thumb apply pressure, guiding the knife in the cut, and 
					may be reinforced by the bolsters on heavy duty knives. On my models 
					with locking sheaths, the thumb rise frequently accommodates the 
					lock notch, where the 
					lock tang engages. The thumb rise may also 
					help prevent the hand from sliding forward onto the blade, and may 
					present an area where the blade can be pinched between the finger 
					and thumb for controlled cutting, such as fine work with a
					chef's 
					knife. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- tip
- See point above. The tip is the end of the 
					point. The tip is usually the easiest part of the knife blade to 
					fracture, and it is the most used for penetration and the 
					controlled, fine beginning of a cut. Tip geometry is important, a balance of useable 
					thinness with enough material to support use. How a maker or 
					manufacturer grinds the tip of the point should be determined by the 
				steel type, the 
					blade's intended use, the temper of the 
					blade, and the serviceability of the knife over time, as this area 
					will change shape after repeated sharpenings more dramatically than 
					any other part of the blade edge. If you take care of the tip of the 
					knife blade, the rest of the knife will follow suit. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- thong
- Technically, a piece of cord, tie, lash, strip, tape, rope, or tether, this word is probably best if not used to describe
					a lanyard. The lanyard is historically related to and descriptive of the exact function (to secure a knife), where the thong is just a strip of textile.
					Also, because thong refers to modern (lack of) clothing, it's not the best word to describe a lanyard. The word "thong" would be 
				appropriate describing the little dingily-dangly
					bit of leather some knifemakers like to attach to the butt of their knives to hold the pewter skull, doggie, or heart charms that make knives perform
					to their maximum mystical potential ... 
					Alphabet Links
					
- through-tang
- Another word describing a hidden tang (above). So 
					called because the tang extends through the block of handle material. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- tool marks
- These are simply the marks left by a tool, and not usually considered 
					desirable on the modern, well-made
					knife. Some tool marks are unavoidable and are left purposefully to set apart a rough surface from a finished 
					one, such as the file marks on spine or tang filework. Others are signs of poor finishing, like grinder marks,
					milling scours, and saw teeth marks on blades. Handles can show tool marks also, and are generally not 
					desirable. Sometimes the tool mark itself is the finish, such as in knurled handles (yuuk), or in jeweled surfaces such 
					as is done on some firearm actions. A horrid finish is the hammered surface of knife blades, done to quickly 
					and easily finish a knife and give it a hammered, rustic, or primitive look. Not something you would expect 
					to see on a fine handmade modern knife of any substantial value, this finish usually appears on inexpensive
					knives or beginner's works, though a few experienced makers use it. 
				The use is not generally considered artistic—just know 
				that the most difficult part of the knife blade to finish 
				properly is the flat. This is the area that unskilled 
				knifemakers love to leave hammered, scarred, blackened, and 
				crusty. Coincidence or laziness? You decide. By the way, no 
				chef's or kitchen knife should ever have a rough surface, since 
				it can easily harbor bacteria. 
					Alphabet Links
- tooth
- The tooth is not the handle material that is made of wart hog tusk, elephant tusk, or even bits
					of elk whistlers that were thought to be canines at one time. And no, it is not the semi-petrified tooth
					of a mammoth, which does make a striking knife handle. The tooth I'm referring to is the surface texture
					that is rough enough to hold debris, fluids, and wax. Like the tooth of a sheet of paper which is used 
					to describe a paper's ability to hold the graphite particles of a drawing, a rough surface texture on a 
					knife blade, handle, or component can offer enough microscopic hills and depressions to markedly affect long term
					contact with contaminants and thus, the corrosion resistance. A bead-blasted or satin finished blade has 
					more tooth than a mirror finished blade, and more surface area and roughness, so will be less corrosion 
					resistant. However, the same tooth on the blade surface also holds 
					waxes well, so I always recommend heavily
					waxing this type of blade to inhibit and even prevent surface corrosion and rust. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- trapping (hooks and geometry)
- "Trapping" is the action that allows a knife user to engage and retain objects that may ordinarily slide off 
					a slick, smooth, or rounded knife edge or surface. This is very useful in the survival, rescue, and emergency
					response field for snagging, grabbing, and holding a line, rope, or textile. Without trapping, cutting a line
					may take two hands: one to hold the line, and the other to hold the knife for the cut. In the combat field, 
					trapping allows snagging and pulling of clothing, body gear and equipment, and even gloves of the enemy for 
					tactical advantage. Traps are typically near the handle; this gives them great strength, close access to cutting
					features (like serrations) and does not interfere with the regular blade point or cutting edge action. Though they 
					are often near the choil, they may comprise separate mechanical geometry and function. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- tribology, tribological
- Tribology is a branch of mechanical engineering and materials science. Tribology is the science and engineering of 
					interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, 
					lubrication and wear. In knifemaking, tribological studies play a role in determining steel wear characteristics and this 
					is the only scientific, accepted method to determine the relative wear resistance of steel. Cutting tests do not; they
					are too variable, and knife blades can not be consistently created to any high degree of accuracy. In tribological testing,
					wear surfaces, indentation, loss of mass, and friction are all considered and calculated. This is ASTM and AISI approved
					testing of the wear resistance of steels and it is the only recognized standard. 
					More about cutting tests of knife blades on this page.
					More about the reasons for tribological testing of steels on my 
					Heat Treating and Cryogenic Processing of Knife Blade Steels.
					Alphabet Links
					
- U
- UAMA
- This is the abbreviation of the Unified Abrasives Manufacturer's Association. It was formed to promote and standardize the wide-ranging
					abrasives manufacturing industry, and merged the Abrasive Grain Association, Coated Abrasives Manufacturers’ Institute, 
					Diamond Wheel Manufacturers’ Institute and the Grinding Wheel Institute, in association with ANSI. It is the source of standards
					in the abrasives industry which can be bewildering and wide-ranging.
					Alphabet Links
- under-ground (blade)
- This is not a blade that is used 
					to dig a foxhole! It refers to a blade (typical in manufactured 
					knives) that has not been deeply ground, and is thin only at the 
					cutting edge, having a shallow grind. The reason is economy and 
					planned obsolescence. It's cheap and fast to do just a little bit of 
					grinding on a knife blade, leaving a fairly thick edge, and get the 
					knife out the door. It's also dangerous to grind thin blades (I go 
					into that in my upcoming book). Also, if after three sharpenings the 
					knife is unusable without regrinding, when most manufacturers figure 
					you'll buy another knife. There is plenty of sales and production 
					psychology that goes into knife manufacturing, but the outcome is 
					clear: an underground blade is a cheap, badly made blade. In my opinion,
					most manufactured knives are underground. Get a detailed description of this blade grind factor with illustrations and more 
					information on my Blades page 
					at this bookmark. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- under the table
- See left under the table above.
					Alphabet Links
					
- UNS
- This is the Unified Numbering System for metals (used in North America) and it's managed jointly by the 
				ASTM International and SAE International. While 
					it is not the full indicator of metallic properties, it does identify metal types and alloys across the metals field.
					Alphabet Links
				
- V
- vitreous
- This is a term for the lapidary side of knifemaking, and means "glasslike." It's used in describing the surface 
					appearance of a gemstone, mineral, or rock material, but the interesting part is how that surface is derived. While a gemstone like obsidian 
					can be flaked or fractured and have a vitreous appearance, this is not the normal method to achieve this. Polishing is, and in the 
					harder materials, like agates and jaspers, it takes a slow, laborious process to achieve the bright vitreous surface that brings out 
					the beauty of gemstone. 
					More about gemstone knife handles. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- W
- wall hanger
- This term is used to describe a knife that 
					hangs on a wall, usually considered a display piece only. Guys that 
					carry ugly or cheap knives like to use this term; sometimes they may 
					think it degrades a beautiful knife. After all, they wouldn't use a 
					fine beautiful tool in their lives, so why would you? You'll often 
					hear the phrase, "that's just too pretty to use," and I talk about 
					that more on a special topic on my FAQ page
					
					at this bookmark. When they say, "that's just a 
					wall hanger," what they really mean is they can't afford a knife that 
					nice. Okay, I'm being harsh here. Some cheap knock-off 
					swords, pop knives, and imports are made only for display. So if it's 
					a real knife, it's usually called a collector's knife, and if the
					wall hanger is made in Pakistan or China, it's just called 
					decoration. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- washed (washed-over, washed-out)
- When knife blade, fitting, and handle 
					materials are improperly finished, they lose their crisp lines of 
					geometric form, and are often rounded-over or washed by too much 
					time spent on a buffer, trying to bring an improperly sanded and 
					prepared surface to a bright finish. Sometimes, it is desirable to 
					have a rounded form (such as at the inside of the handle quillons), 
					but the finish of the edges and angles of the bolster faces and 
					handle edges should still retain their geometric crisp angles and 
					form. Washed-over knives are not high grade investment works, and it 
					is something to look out for in a fine custom knife investment. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- watered (steel)
- This term generally refers to ancient ultra high carbon Persian steel, which, according to experts and historians, appeared on the surface to be
					a moiré silk pattern with alternating bands of light and dark wavy lines. This was believed to be caused by particles of iron carbides, 
					contrasting by etching and darkening chemical treatments. In 
				one reference, it's claimed that the flat cakes of crucible 
				steel that will form watered steel when properly forged are 
				called "Wootz." It's believed that wootz steel originated in 
				India, and the cakes were taken in trade routes to Damascus for forging. This is 
				not modern, pattern welded Damascus, but 
				the appearance is an artifact of welding, forging,
					and treatment of a singular steel type from the Wootz cake. The difference in appearance 
				from modern pattern welded Damascus steel is that true ancient watered steel has a very tiny pattern, almost
					needing magnification to be seen, and is a more gentle, less contrasting and striking layering effect. More about 
					pattern welded Damascus 
					steel at this link on my Blades page. 
					Alphabet Links 
					See also Damascus steel and Wootz steel on this page.
- waves
- Waves belong on the ocean, not on a knife! 
					This refers to careless or inexperienced grinding. As the knife is 
					held in a bright, uniform illumination, you can see undulating waves 
					in the flat and ground surface of the blade. Waves are caused 
					by bad grind practice and too much time at the buffer. The maker 
					attempts to remove scratches and smooth the surface of the grind by 
					hogging out areas on the blade surface, destroying the crisp, clean 
					grind lines that well-made handmade custom knives are known for. 
					I've seen this a lot in foreign makers, I don't know why, as they 
					have access to the same information and technology that domestic 
					makers do. If you see a knife like this, don't buy it, it's not 
					worth the investment. Alphabet Links
					
- wearability
- Technically, this is a neologism. In the knife field this word comes
					up because guys realize that although a knife might be very nice to hold and use, the maker or
					manufacturer has not included a useful, much less suitable knife sheath to be able to wear the 
					knife. Knowing that in reality, a knife is worn, not carried, it is indefensible that makers
					and manufacturers constantly ignore this most important part of the real knife conversation.
					For my own knives and sheaths, not only do I work hard to create useful, reliable, durable, and
					dedicated sheaths, both traditional and 
					tactical, I also 
					include accessories to widen the scope 
					of knife sheath wearability.
					Alphabet Links
					
- welt
- Used in knife sheaths, the welt forms a width 
					to accommodate the thickness of the knife and blade; it establishes 
					and strengthens the spine of the sheath, and offers a protective 
					surface for the cutting edge to glide in and out of the sheath 
					without cutting the fastening means, like stitches, rivets, or 
					screws. This is not a gusset; please don't use that word! 
					Literally, the word welt means that which being sewn or otherwise 
					fastened to a border serves to guard, strengthen, or adorn it. In 
					the knife sheath, it does all three! See more about welts on my 
					Sheaths page. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- Wootz (steel)
- This is early high carbon crucible-made steel, a process that originated in Indian swordsmithing as early as 200 B.C. The Wootz 
				steels are believed to originate in India, but India and the Persian world traded frequently, so identification of the steel's 
				origination can become complicated. It's believed that Indian blades were imported into Persia from early in the craft, and 
				Persian smiths often improved and worked over the blades, swords, and daggers as well as forged the wootz flat cakes of 
				steel for their own designs. See also Damascus steel and 
				watered steel on this definition list as well as 
				Damascus steel 
				on my Blades page. 
- worked back
- see backwork above
					Alphabet Links
				
- working knife
- See EDC above. The daily carried knife, not 
					purchased for collection or investment value, but for use. Though 
					these knives may be elaborate and even feature gemstone handles, 
					full engraving, and a high price compared to factory knives, they 
					are more typically a maker's lower end in style, materials, and finish (and 
					thus cost). Every knife should be made to the highest standards that the 
					price will 	allow, and investment grade knives should be able to perform just as well 
					as a gritty, tough working knife for every day carry, even though they're never
					expected to see any use. 
					Alphabet Links
					
- X
- Y
- yokote
- Pronounced yō-kō-tā (with the accent on ko).The dividing line in the grinds visible at the union of the tip grind and the main 
					blade grind in tanto blades. See dividing line above.
					Alphabet Links
					
- Z
- zebra knife
- This is my own term and I'm sure it will catch on. A zebra knife is a knife that is 
					adorned with images of zebras, either by fine engraving, etching, scrimshaw, or other 
					methods of adornment. The zebra knife has been a source of humor for some makers and 
					knife clients, as it can be the hardest kind of knife to sell. The knife doesn't 
					appeal to most collectors because of the specific and narrow interest of the zebra, and
					no user would carry a zebra knife in the field because they would be afraid to scratch 
					it and damage the fine zebra image. Another looming problem is one of misinterpretation; 
					is the zebra there for adornment, or is it the subject of the knife's purpose and use (such 
					as zebra skinning)? Nowadays, it's hard to make friends if you carry a zebra skinner 
					on your hip no matter how open-minded they are. One more thing: a zebra knife usually 
					rests in the collection of a big African game hunter, alongside 
					the big five images of lions, elephants, 
					rhinos, leopards and tigers. Who would hunt this poor striped horse, anyway? Taken generally, 
					the zebra knife is a knife that for some specific reason, is difficult to sell.
 (Note: I found out that a knife forum had cited this very definition for discussion.
					Though several people understood the humor, others not so gifted in the recognition of 
					satire claimed that tigers had not been hunted recently in Africa. Duuuh, really? Oh, and
					yes, they went on to claim that they wouldn't ever buy my knives, but really appreciated
					the information on my site. This is funny; I must know something about knives, but after
					making and selling over 3000 of them for three decades, building the most extensive web
					offering and information rich website about those very knives, I don't build a knife 
					good enough for them to consider. I hope I can survive in this business! Oh, and of course,
					a factory knife made by a boutique shop is somehow better designed when built with a 
					parachute cord handle. Hmmm.)
					Alphabet Links
 
	
	
		Since language is a constantly evolving medium, I'm certain that 
			I'll spend a lot more time here, updating the terminology of the modern 
			handmade custom knife and its components, features, and accessories. I
			don't expect I'll ever finish this page, that hopefully it will evolve
			throughout my time making knives, and that that time will be 
		substantial!
		Thank you for taking your time to be here sharing in this fascinating field.
			You honor me by visiting!
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